Mahe 36: Engines

[Rufduck]

Hi all, answered a couple of previous questions...

The small hose from top of heat exchanger to the expansion tank is an air purge. The nipple should have a small hole in the center. Mine was completely plugged and trapped an air bubble in the heat exchanger. Cleaned with a 1mm drill and works fine.

Cheers

[CaptainRivet]

Hi Mahe and other Volvo D1-30 owners,


about to purchase (precontracted) a 2014 Mahe 36 evolution with wooping 6000h on both engines Volvo D1-30 and saildrives:
When do you have to overhaul them, how much does it cost? Access is easy so this doesn't add a lot labour to pull them out&in. Sure its different due to location but a ballpark number whould be really helpfull to calculate the total deal.
thank you.

[foxinsox8]

Originally Posted by Cotemar

Mahe's

I put together a Volvo Penta D1-30F Engine & Sail Drive Parts List.
Now you can have all your maintenance items in one list.

See attached Word Document. Use this and add you own items.

Some of these items are also used on the D1-20 engine.
I am hoping that one of our members will edit this for the D1-20 engine and repost it for everyone.

Mark

I'd suggest that VP owners have a look at aliexpress. D1-30 impellers at about $10 USD. D2 water pump">raw water pump for $70! https://www.aliexpress.com/item/3296...78128961%22%7D

[foxinsox8]

Hi
If you still have the air filter mod instructions I'd love to get them: t.palmer@westnet.com.au

thanks Tim

[Rufduck]

Hi all,
D1-30B expansion tank vibration mounts replace and heat exchanger cleaning inspection.
Ever since we bought the boat, both coolant expansion tanks have looked wonky. Recently removed both to access the rear of the heat exchanger to see if there was any detritus blocking some of the tubes.
Simple enough and discovered that the rubber vibration mounts (3 each side) were quite deformed with age. Also the inlet raw water hose rides over the tank bowing it down. Made an aluminum bracket to support it.
Volvo stuff was/is expensive. Found close to exact match. The rubber biscuits with studs are M6 and the existing nuts work fine. Found them on Amazon see.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1
About $9 for 4. The 6mm stud length is fine on one side but need to be cut off flush with the nuts on the other.
Note: this is the best match I found. Another has thicker biscuits which work but a stud and nut must be carefully ground away for them to fit.

The heat exchanger inspection showed a small amount of calcium buildup which I mechanically cleaned and I rodded the tubes with a length of 1/8” diameter allthread. Exhaust water flow seems improved although there was little in the way of blockage.
Total time was under an hour per engine including cleanup.

The remote oil filter mod continues to work beautifully.

Fair winds

[frajolex]

It seems this thread is dormant but I'll ask anyways

I have a volvo penta D1-20f with exactly 100 hours, and I am shopping around to find alternatives for the Air filter. It seems someone here made a mod, any chances of sharing that doc? ==> andre.dias.albuquerque@gmail.com

[Rufduck]

With only 100 hours, unless you have incredibly dirty air, I doubt you would need to change anything for several hundred more hours. I know mine had a minimum of 500 hours and possibly over 1000 hours when I changed them, 2 x D1-30B. It made zero discernible difference in operating performance.
At about $70 a pop, I just figured it was a very cheap piece of occasional maintenance and I was chasing a low power issue.
I would occasionally try to clean it, compressed air and even tried to vacuum it. Never saw anything come out.
Cheers,

[tpkas]

I just approached a filter specialist company. They wanted some engine details and then gave me a choice of three solutions. I ended up taking the easiest and least expensive using their disposable filter and, believe it or not, some PVC pipe to connect it to the air inlet manifold. At the time I think VP wanted about $75 each for a filter and the ones I now use are about half the price.

Regards,

Brian

[frajolex]

Originally Posted by Rufduck

With only 100 hours, unless you have incredibly dirty air, I doubt you would need to change anything for several hundred more hours. I know mine had a minimum of 500 hours and possibly over 1000 hours when I changed them, 2 x D1-30B. It made zero discernible difference in operating performance.
At about $70 a pop, I just figured it was a very cheap piece of occasional maintenance and I was chasing a low power issue.
I would occasionally try to clean it, compressed air and even tried to vacuum it. Never saw anything come out.
Cheers,

THx for the reply. True, it's a quite new engine, I'll try to clean it and see how it goes

[frajolex]

Originally Posted by tpkas

I just approached a filter specialist company. They wanted some engine details and then gave me a choice of three solutions. I ended up taking the easiest and least expensive using their disposable filter and, believe it or not, some PVC pipe to connect it to the air inlet manifold. At the time I think VP wanted about $75 each for a filter and the ones I now use are about half the price.

Regards,

Brian

I am curious about it... pics?

[areddon]

I think that the modification about which the OP is asking is to adapt the D2-40 air filter to accept a washable air filter element rather than replacing the entire element at a pretty ridiculous cost.

There is a very clear explanation, with pictures and part numbers, in a Word document that has been shared through this thread (but not posted here) before. The word file, with pictures, is much too big to post here (400 kB limit).

I did the modification several years ago and it works perfectly. I can send the Word file by email if anyone wants it.

[frajolex]

Originally Posted by areddon

I think that the modification about which the OP is asking is to adapt the D2-40 air filter to accept a washable air filter element rather than replacing the entire element at a pretty ridiculous cost.

There is a very clear explanation, with pictures and part numbers, in a Word document that has been shared through this thread (but not posted here) before. The word file, with pictures, is much too big to post here (400 kB limit).

I did the modification several years ago and it works perfectly. I can send the Word file by email if anyone wants it.

awesome!!! I would love to get the doc. ==> andre.dias.albuquerque@gmail.com

[frajolex]

Got it!! thank you all!

[Rufduck]

V/P D1-30B….Does anyone know what the seal number is for the raw water pump? Both the oil and water seals are the same I believe. I have the VP number but it is a common seal available locally. I can’t find the spare VP seals I bought …no comment��
Also, Cotemar made a list of Mahe alternative parts. I’ve found reference to it but can’t find the link. Anyone know it?
Cheers

[frajolex]

Originally Posted by Rufduck

V/P D1-30B….Does anyone know what the seal number is for the raw water pump? Both the oil and water seals are the same I believe. I have the VP number but it is a common seal available locally. I can’t find the spare VP seals I bought …no comment��
Also, Cotemar made a list of Mahe alternative parts. I’ve found reference to it but can’t find the link. Anyone know it?
Cheers

Are you referring to the O-Ring?

https://www.volvopenta.com/shop/9992...tions/54170796

if yes I believe this is the one ==> Part No. 3580380