Athena 38: FP Athena 38 Rudder Bearings

[Boatfreak]

Hi All

I have a bit of wear in the bearings of my Port Rudder. The boatyard in Greece where we have laid her up for the winter have put her in the roadway where digging a hole to lower the rudder will be impossible and probably not allowed anyway. Furthermore the boatyard has informed me that the lifting gear is undergoing maintenance and will not be available until March. That is leaving it a bit late to get the rudder out, have new bearings made up and the rudder replaced, and all the time the Shengen clock will be ticking. I am in the UK.

The FP distributors have told me that FP will not be able to supply parts or drawings for my 20 year old boat, though they were able to supply a new forward crossbeam for my then 28 year old Maldives 32 a few years ago.

Can anyone help for drawings or other information so that I can get ahead of the game on this ?

Thanks

[Boatfreak]

Hi

I'm replying to my own thread. I've just followed the link to International Boat Spares on the SABA 50 rudder bearing post, which came up with some info for the Athena. I had tried this a different way before posting and got nothing, so I have moved forward, however, if there is anyone out there who has actually done this, some pointers on what is necessary, how it all comes apart and goes together etc, would still be usefull.

Thanks

[neilpride]

Upper bearing ? lower bearing? or both?

[Boatfreak]

Hi Neil

Thanks for replying. the answer is that I dont know.

We had a knocking sound when sailing at over six knots but waggling the rudder from the water when swimming didn't produce any discernable difference from the Starboard rudder, which was Ok when sailing.

The yard was very busy with lift outs and we had to wait twelve days for our haulout, by which time we had only 24hours before our flight to pack away the remainder of the boat. Consequently I was unable to do any more than confirm that there was some sort of problem, and that was after they had set us down in our winter spot.

[neilpride]

Upper bearings usually last longer than those in the bottom, in the water is hard to found the culprit, if the water is clear, 2 guys with snorkel masks , grab the rudder at the bottom , shake it sideways back and forth with the other guy wachting the rudder post at the hull lower bearing spot and see if there is any play there, if not, same procedure with a person in the rudder post upper bearing area, i guess you need to disconnet the rudder bar if there is one who link with the other just to feel the bearing play.

[Rapanui]

Hi Nick,
Found these CF threads
https://www.cruisersforum.com/forums...nt-179820.html


This is for Lavezzi not sure if relevant

https://www.cruisersforum.com/forums...ent-52612.html


Exert from JP3 website which gives a little more detail of the bearing 10.11.03 arrangement. Maybe they can give more information

https://www.jp3steering.com/en/rudde.../type-1and-15/


Would have thought FP could provide the factory assembly details.
Stephen

[Boatfreak]

Neil

Thanks for the advice on diagnosis, too late this time for the in water test but I guess it works as well on dry land and something to bear in mind in the future for the other side. Perhaps I should do that one now as a bit of preventative maintenance.

I replaced the rudder bearings on my Maldives 32, which was an easy job, done while the hoist driver went to lunch, and I was thinking this would be the same.
All the Maldives had was two Delrin top hats, some washers and a retaining ring. The Athena is clearly more complex and apparently glassed in. Have you actually done it on an Athena, if so some confirmation of the parts required would be helpful.

[Boatfreak]

Neil

Thanks for the advice on diagnosis, too late this time for the in water test but I guess it works as well on dry land and something to bear in mind in the future for the other side. Perhaps I should do that one now as a bit of preventative maintenance.

I replaced the rudder bearings on my Maldives 32, which was an easy job, done while the hoist driver went to lunch, and I was thinking this would be the same.
All the Maldives had was two Delrin top hats, some washers and a retaining ring. The Athena is clearly more complex and apparently glassed in. Have you actually done it on an Athena, if so some confirmation of the parts required would be helpful.

[neilpride]

Many years ago i change the top bearing in a Lavezzi , i cant remember well but what i remember its a delrin ball on top, hard to deal with that ...

https://www.google.com/url?sa=i&url=...AAAAAdAAAAABAJ


https://www.google.com/url?sa=i&url=...AAAAAdAAAAABAX

I found this...

[Boatfreak]

Hi Steve

Thanks for the thread links, there's some useful information there and a bit of riske' humour if you follow the supplementary threads on ball race replacement!

If I remember correctly the rudder tube is fibreglass and tabbed on to the half bulkhead immediately behind it, and behind the bulkhead it is entirely filled with expanding foam up to the level of the portlight sized viewing hole. I would not be happy to cut out the tube to access the bearings so I suppose I must plan on using the hole saw method from below, though that sounds like it could go horribly wrong.

MICats seemed quite certain that FP would not have drawings, I find that hard to believe as we were able to purchase a new front cross beam for Ciel Bleu in 2016. The problem will be getting a response from FP, I have a request for stanchion bases in with the much aclaimed Muriel, and if she responds I will try her on rudder bearing details. I will also try JP3 and see if they have drawings of the design. All in all I can see it taking all of my 90 days, perhaps we should just sail the boat to outside Shengen, hoping it survives the trip and do it next winter.

[Boatfreak]

Hi Neil

Thanks again, some more useful stuff there. Respect to anyone who does this with the boat in the water !

[CaptainRivet]

I definitely wouldn’t do that in water. Just pulled both rudders on my Lavezzi as they move in the rudder arm. That clamping screws don‘t hold the rudder well when my D2-50 with fixed 17x15 are in reverse…typical Lagoon problem. Or if you have 50hp instead of 20hp…
So we need to drill rudder post and put a screw through to hold it in place instead clamping it. Maybe I am lucky and the new 18x13 Flexofold 3 Blades don‘t put so much pressure on the rudder then the fixed 17x15 in reverse.

[Kati]

Hi


This is my first post in this forum.


We have Athena 38 building number 17. 1995 model.



I changed all four rudder bearings on our FP Atena 38 ca. 10 years ago. It is not difficult, but you must be at least two people. The rudder is quit heavy, and it is best to have a support under the rudders when you take off the bolt on the top of the rudder shaft.


When the boat is on the hard, it is easy to see if it moves sideways, or aft-forward when you drag the rudder from side to side.



I used a mobil crane to lift the boat up on my fathers cousins dock, an let the rudder be outside of the dock. Towed my floating pontoon over the bay, and used it to stand on when we took down, changed the bearings, and replaced the rudders.


I got the new bearings from FP, via the Norwegian dealer. Not expensiv if they billed me at all.

The bearings are made of delrin with a hole throu, and the "top" and "bottom" is cut of.


I turned the bearings so that the holes was horisontal, turned them the right direction and pryed them out. Difficult to explain, but you understand it at once when you see it.


The inner bearings was more difficult to pry out. My helper was standing outside, he put a broom handle from outside, and knocked carefully with a hammer.


You need new bearings, spanners, rachet and pipes, unbrako/ allen keys, a broom handle or similar, a hammer and some grease.


It do not hurt to change the bolts at the same time, but i have never changed them.



The whole operation tok 2-4 hr.


When you first take down a rudder, there is no reason to just change one of the bearings.





If you have everything ready, and if the yard can leave your boat in the crane when the go home after a day, you can do this yourself in one night.


FP is not so quick when it comes to after sale service, so start to get new bearings early.


Try https://www.jefa.com/ if FP do not want help you.


In case you want to get the bearings taylor made somewhere, know that some kind of delrin expand when it had been under water for a while. You do not want that on your rudder bearings.



I hope this can help you "Boatfreak".

[Kati]

Hi again.


The bearings is was not glassed in. There are metal plates flush whth the hull. When you turn the bearings 90 degrees, and point them in the right direction, you can take them out.