Lucia 40: Isla 40, reefing from cockpit

[Zhent]

The standard layout for the Isla 40 reefing points 2 and 3 on the main requires someone on board to go up to the mast, loop a flat line through the reefing point on the mainsail, and attach it back to a clip on the other side of the mast to create the new tack. Is there a common adjustment to make this doable entirely from the cockpit of the boat?

[blackc2004]

I'm looking at boats now and I've seen a lot of them make this adjustment. I'm in the process of closing on a boat that doesn't have 2 and 3 in the cockpit so I'll be making those adjustments as well once I close on it.

If anyone has diagrams/part lists/suggestions of how to do it. that would be great!

[thinwater]

I would ask the designer. Maybe there is a reason.


More spaghetti in the cockpit for something you won't often use. Are there clew lines pre-roven for #3? They can be long and in the way.


Choices.

[blackc2004]

Originally Posted by thinwater

I would ask the designer. Maybe there is a reason.


More spaghetti in the cockpit for something you won't often use. Are there clew lines pre-roven for #3? They can be long and in the way.


Choices.

Don't really want this to diviate into a debate... Just asking other people how they have done it and what was needed. There's plenty of ISLA's out there that have run #2&3 back to the cockpit.

[Snore]

I would almost bet serious cash that all FPs had reef 1 and 2 at the helm. Then again, reef 2's tack at the helm, may be an option. The issue with reef 3 tack and clew at the helm is the volume of line.

Can you retrofit this? If there are slots in the organizers and turning blocks at the mast (or room for more) yes. Like most production boats designers, FP guys are lazy (efficient). Look at other new FPs and see how they route the lines from the mast to the helm.

It is important to know that whenever you set reef 1, you have to take the slack out of 2 and 3. To avoid a mess, it is prudent to pull on all 3 lines. Likewise, when you set #2, you have to pull the slack out of 3. Why?

Because if when setting 1, the line for 2 gets pinched inside the sail, when you need 2, you will think it is set, until the previously fouled reef 2 frees itself and sail starts flogging.

Trust me- I've made that mistake... Once :>)

Final thought- don't be intimidated about going forward. Learn to set jacklines whenever you go out. The good news is that 'some folks' have been known to use the pre-rigged jib and spare halyard that runs from the helm to the mast as a jackline. Not exactly by-the-book-- but it will get you there, if needed.

[Zhent]

Originally Posted by blackc2004

I'm looking at boats now and I've seen a lot of them make this adjustment. I'm in the process of closing on a boat that doesn't have 2 and 3 in the cockpit so I'll be making those adjustments as well once I close on it.

If anyone has diagrams/part lists/suggestions of how to do it. that would be great!

I'm still looking, but haven't found anything myself - if you do come across anything send it my way, thank you

Originally Posted by thinwater

I would ask the designer. Maybe there is a reason.
More spaghetti in the cockpit for something you won't often use. Are there clew lines pre-roven for #3? They can be long and in the way.
Choices.

Thanks, and good points. I think it's a toss up between accessibility and safety on both sides. Where we are sailing right now, I am more comfortable and expect more willing to reef if it doesn't require a trip to the mast, especially since we often sail just two on board.

Originally Posted by Snore

I would almost bet serious cash that all FPs had reef 1 and 2 at the helm. Then again, reef 2's tack at the helm, may be an option. The issue with reef 3 tack and clew at the helm is the volume of line.

Can you retrofit this? If there are slots in the organizers and turning blocks at the mast (or room for more) yes. Like most production boats designers, FP guys are lazy (efficient). Look at other new FPs and see how they route the lines from the mast to the helm.

It is important to know that whenever you set reef 1, you have to take the slack out of 2 and 3. To avoid a mess, it is prudent to pull on all 3 lines. Likewise, when you set #2, you have to pull the slack out of 3. Why?

Because if when setting 1, the line for 2 gets pinched inside the sail, when you need 2, you will think it is set, until the previously fouled reef 2 frees itself and sail starts flogging.

Trust me- I've made that mistake... Once :>)

Final thought- don't be intimidated about going forward. Learn to set jacklines whenever you go out. The good news is that 'some folks' have been known to use the pre-rigged jib and spare halyard that runs from the helm to the mast as a jackline. Not exactly by-the-book-- but it will get you there, if needed.

Thanks, great points as well. The compromise of only sending 2 back and keeping 3 at the mast may be where we head, the points about having a ton of extra line are well founded. As above, while we gain experience and miles, I don't want to find myself in a position where I didn't reef where we should have.



I plan on doing the reconfigure myself, so I should be able to undo whatever is required when we do gain more experience and ability to head to the mast in the future!