Want To Buy: Small Piece of White Oak

[Triton318]

I am interested in purchasing a small piece of white oak, preferably quarter-sawn. It can be anywhere from 3/4" to 2" thick (surfaced both faces; don't have a planer). Optimum dimensions are 8" X 8", but must be at least 8" on one side. A little longer is fine. It's for a mast step.

Thanks.

Jay
(804) 815-5538

[xsboats]

Call Crown Marine/J&M Marina in Deltaville.

[skipmac]

Guess you are dealing with the Pearson mast root rot, aluminum mast in a steel step? Seems to be a very common Pearson problem.

Not sure if I would pick oak for this. My Pearson the mast steps in the bilge and oak has a tendency to rot. I replaced mine with an UHMWPE base with a 6061 Al plate on top.

[Cheechako]

Oak, white or not, would not be the best choice for often wet environment. (Yeah, I know, they made ribs out of it...) Air circulation is essential for oak, when wet it turns black and fungi grow readily.... teak would last a lot longer

[Triton318]

Originally Posted by skipmac

I replaced mine with an UHMWPE base with a 6061 Al plate on top.

I thought about using a plastic, but I know polysulfide sealants don't adhere (or adhere will) to many kinds of plastic. I will need a sealant because the mast is deck stepped.

[bruce smith]

Iroko, greenheart, teak, even a "mahogany" like khaya, would be better than oak.

[hellosailor]

An 8"x8" piece of any hardwood will be hard to find, 8" wide planks are just damned expensive and you're looking for a scrap from one of them. There aren't many yards that deal with good wood but you might try Condons:

About Us

Condons are very good folks, and they might be able to find a scrap that meets your needs, perhaps from a better wood, and UPS it down to you.

Personally, I'd look at an UHDPE or Delrin cutting board. Readily available, cheap, never rots, can be worked with woodworking tools. And yes, people do use it for mast steps.

[zeehag]

mebbe a metal plate--they will last longer than any mahogany you choose--that stuff is not for structural use. rots in air, and fresh water, and salt water-white oak is not going to rot as fast as red oak.
wood for this use may be a little soft--try to find something that can be glassed in or is metal for the job.

[Triton318]

I've found the following information quite a bit while researching white oak: "White oak has tyloses that give the wood a closed cellular structure, making it water- and rot-resistant." I was under the impression it was very resistant to damage from water. In any case, it will be primed and painted with several coats of enamel or polyurethane. There will be an aluminum plate on top of it. My concern with using UHDPE or Delrin is adhesion of a sealant. I need to seal between the bottom of the mast step and the top of the deck. And between the bottom of the aluminum plate and the top of the mast step.

[Sailmonkey]

If it were me, I'd use FR-4 rather than wood. Its not nylon or teflon, sealants will stick to it, and it will never adsorb water.

McMaster-Carr

[Cheechako]

If you are concerned about slippage with UHMW or Starboard etc, drill divots with a drillpoint making the unexposed surface pockmarked. If you insist on wood, PM me , I MAY have a piece of teak less than one sq ft. Dont you have a cast alum mast step that bolts through the block?

[skipmac]

Originally Posted by Triton318

I've found the following information quite a bit while researching white oak: "White oak has tyloses that give the wood a closed cellular structure, making it water- and rot-resistant." I was under the impression it was very resistant to damage from water. In any case, it will be primed and painted with several coats of enamel or polyurethane. There will be an aluminum plate on top of it. My concern with using UHDPE or Delrin is adhesion of a sealant. I need to seal between the bottom of the mast step and the top of the deck. And between the bottom of the aluminum plate and the top of the mast step.

Hi Jay,

You are correct that adhesives will not adhere to many plastics and especially PE or UHMW (ultra high molecular weight) PE but I was able to get some stuff to stick well enough to for a water seal. My step is in the bilge, bolted into the lead with long lag bolts. I rolled out butyl tape under the UHMW piece to keep bilge water from seeping into the bolt holes and also around and under the Al plate on top for the same reasons. The butyl tape stuck quite well and I think will be fine for waterproofing but will not add any structural support.

So if you need the seal just for waterproofing you might try this. I got mine from onlinemetals.com. You could probably order a small piece to play with.

Of course I doubt you could get any kind of paint to reliably stick so cosmetically you would be looking at the plastic.

[sdowney717]

I would just use a piece of treated dimensional cut pine from the store.
Let it dry and then coat the outside with fiberglass tape and PL premium polyurethane as the resin to seal it.



for the fiberglass tape, just use drywall tape off a roll



you will be surprised how well it will work. PL is 100% waterproof, will seal out water and rust and stick to aluminum, metal, wood. You can also use this to seal metal and keep it from rusting.