Visit our Popular Forums

LeeV · 13-07-2020, 05:59

I was able to easily remove the sprit from the beam, however from there it didn't get much easier.

The damage is worse that it looks; the dent is approximately 1" deep and the sprit is not usable, however I have all the measurements and can easily and fairly cheaply have a simple cylinder made in Baltimore. Then I just need to reattach everything. So I cut it up to make it easier to disassemble. That went well, until......

The forward end where the bobstays attach was fairly easy to gently pound out, but the aft end with the captive pin is a no go, and I don't want to damage it by beating it senseless - although I'm tempted! I'm hesitant to heat it up, but am not sure what else to do.

The pin still turns, but not easily, and will not pull up at all. I'm not certain I even need the pin; the sprit moves side to side, and the only reason I'd have to use the pin is if I wanted to remove the sprit, and I'm not sure why I'd want to - other than the current situation!

meirriba · 13-07-2020, 07:04

Quote:

Originally Posted by LeeV

The pin still turns, but not easily, and will not pull up at all. I'm not certain I even need the pin; the sprit moves side to side, and the only reason I'd have to use the pin is if I wanted to remove the sprit, and I'm not sure why I'd want to - other than the current situation!

The pin release has a function that may be useless in your particular case. Some marinas charge the berth costs per boat's length, including all appendages. So, you are supposed to be able to remove the bowsprit in few seconds to get the length down to original LOA.

LeeV · 13-07-2020, 07:36

Quote:

Originally Posted by meirriba

The pin release has a function that may be useless in your particular case. Some marinas charge the berth costs per boat's length, including all appendages. So, you are supposed to be able to remove the bowsprit in few seconds to get the length down to original LOA.

Ahh, got it. It's probably used for several boats, as I don't need to do that when I can just swivel the sprit to the left or right.

I just have to figure out how to get that entire piece out of the cylinder now!

Thanks,

Tin Tin · 13-07-2020, 23:39

You will have to disconnect a bob stay to swivel it sideways. The only direction it can move is down, then it gets in the way of anchor set up. What's in the hole opposite the pin. I never looked in there, may be can use a punch?

LeeV · 14-07-2020, 05:44

Quote:

Originally Posted by Tin Tin

You will have to disconnect a bob stay to swivel it sideways. The only direction it can move is down, then it gets in the way of anchor set up. What's in the hole opposite the pin. I never looked in there, may be can use a punch?

I realized last night after I'd written that post that the bobstays would prevent the left or right swivel. The pin has a foot that rides in the groove of the shaft going through the sleeve. You can see the shaft from the hole opposite the pin. I'm guessing the hole is to let water/salt drain.

My only other option is to create a pin much like this fellow did on his 400 (same sprit design):
https://www.cruisersforum.com/forums...-209640-2.html

First I have to get the sleeve out!

LeeV · 15-07-2020, 05:09

Just as an fyi to anybody with a sprit; this problem seems to be systemic until such time as they change(d) the design. Apparently the pin actually winds up fused to the surrounding metal and loses all movement.

I chatted with Peter, who wrote up and provided the photos in the link mentioned above, and he mentioned that after a few years, even his new design started down the same path.

I need to keep working on the fitting removal from the cylinder and then I may visit a machine shop before I start drilling the pin out and see if they have any ideas.

LeeV · 12-08-2020, 05:54

Quick update: I was finally able to remove the aft end of the sprit by cutting up the cylinder (it was bent anyway) and spreading from the cut up to the fitting which finally came out.

The reason it was so hard to remove - it’s not high density plastic like the forward piece, but metal and the corrosion “glued” it to the cylinder.

Called the metal shop and ordered a replacement cylinder. Cost - $36.00!

Now I just need to figure out what to do about that @$*&# pin.

I’m working on the pin in the vice at home and will pick up the cylinder Friday. I’ll update when I figure things out.

LeeV · 23-08-2020, 15:06

New Update:
While working to remove the sprit end fittings I kept working on the release pin with penetrating oil and vice grips until suddenly it released and now functions.

The schedule 40 alum pipe has been drilled for the rivets and drilled & tapped for the button head screws in the front fitting.

I moved the pad eye back a couple of inches On the sprit and ordered 2 of these http://www.westmarine.com/buy/foresp...padeye--111567 which I’ll rivet or screw to the two legs of the dolphin striker. This will add some support and center the lines, while moving the fwd pad eye back will give a bit more room to attach a furler closer to the tang.

I’ve sanded with 80 and 180 grit about 6 times with probably 25 more sandings to go until the final sand with 400. Then it’s off for a hard anodizing in black.

LeeV · 23-09-2020, 12:32

Final post: So I started with one (1) 26 9/16” length of Schedule 40 Aluminum pipe with a 3” ID. I drilled for 1/4” rivets, tapped for the bolts, hand sanded it from 80 grit to 2000 and sent the sprit out to American Finishing Specialists in Connecticut to be hard anodized black.

In the meantime I had a local machine shop make me a new pin. I cleaned and polished the entire end fitting, painted it black, lathered up the pin and spring with Lubriplate, White Lubricant Grease, and put it back together. Will re-grease it every 6 months to keep it working smoothly.

I received the pipe, bolted and riveted everything, and mounted it this past weekend. Photos attached. Hope this helps somebody!