110v outlets

[pelagic4005]

Hello,

I dont have high ampage usuage but need to add more 110v outlets for convenience rather than draw. I currently have one outlet on a breaker and plan to extend the circuit to two more outlets. Normally I would splice the wire to each outlet but that doesnt work to well on a boat unless I use a bus bar for each connection and splicing using the terminals on each outlet is a big no no. What is the ABYC way to do this?

Thank you

[ScottRhodes13]

Here are some notes from the Unites States Power Squadron Marine Electrical Systems course I recently took:
- You must use cable type UL 1426 BC, not house wiring cable
- Wires do not connect directly to circuit breakers or outlets. Use nylon insulated ring connectors or captive spade connectors. Wire nuts should not be used. To join two wires use nylon insulated butt splices.
- cable should be run in dry spaces. Support every 18 inches with insulated or non-metal cable clamp. Do not use staples.
- connections should be made in closed junction boxes.

So, it sounds like you can splice the wires, but not on the terminals of the outlet. Probably just use a pigtail as long as it all fits in the junction box.

[sailorboy1]

You do it same as a house connecting the outlets together. But use stranded wire wire connectors on ends instead of solid wire just wrapped in the outlet terminals

[HeywoodJ]

Butt splices are so old school. The only way to go with this is the Wago Lever Nut. Personally I prefer the 222, but the 221 works too. Readily available on Amazon (beware of knockoffs that may not have approval) in lots of 10 to 100. Come in two-wire, three-wire, five-wire, etc. ABS, Lloyd's, and BV approval for marine use.

See this article on "friction connectors" for ABYC's stance (from a few years ago, they may actually be incorporated into E11, but since that is hidden in the pay wall...).

My personal preference, not addressed anywhere in the directions on marine (or other) use is to stuff them full of dielectric grease before inserting wires.

[Bowdrie]

Protect yourself, the first outlet from the breaker should be a GFCI then daisy-chain the others to it.

[Bellinghamster]

Not sure why you said you can't "daisychain" additional outlets using the screw terminals on the outlets as is typical in residential construction. Outlets should be installed in approved junction boxes. Use stranded, approved AC boat wire with crimp terminals on the end of the wires to land on the screw terminals. Don't stack more than one wire/lug per screw terminal, which dictates a "linear" daisychain of outlets, not a "Y" or "star".

[Bowdrie]

Originally Posted by Bellinghamster

Not sure why you said you can't "daisychain" additional outlets using the screw terminals on the outlets as is typical in residential construction.

I think I'm the only one, (?.) who used the word "daisychain"?
If I am, I didn't say you "can't" do that.
Perhaps it would have been better to say;
1, connect breaker to the GFCI "Line" connections, make it the first outlet.
2, connect second outlet to the "Load" connections on the GFCI.
3, connect any other outlets in the normal manner on down the line from the second outlet.
It's all quite simple, and with some fussing the screw connections will accept crimped-on ring connectors.
Don't get the 79 cent crap outlets, get the ones that cost a few bucks, get the 15 amp ones, they last better than the 10 amp ones.

[smac999]

you take it from the outlet before it.. so the connection is in the outlet box... either from the 2nd screw on the outlet, or the correct way now is to pig tail them. so removing the outlet doesn't effect the downstream ones.

[SailingHarmonie]

Originally Posted by HeywoodJ

Butt splices are so old school. The only way to go with this is the Wago Lever Nut. Personally I prefer the 222, but the 221 works too. Readily available on Amazon (beware of knockoffs that may not have approval) in lots of 10 to 100. Come in two-wire, three-wire, five-wire, etc. ABS, Lloyd's, and BV approval for marine use.

See this article on "friction connectors" for ABYC's stance (from a few years ago, they may actually be incorporated into E11, but since that is hidden in the pay wall...).

My personal preference, not addressed anywhere in the directions on marine (or other) use is to stuff them full of dielectric grease before inserting wires.

That article is hardly totally convincing that lever nuts are the "ONLY" way of joining wires. Quite the contrary.

I'll stick with my "old school" heat shrink butt connectors if I need to connect the ends of two wires together, thank you very much. You can do whatever you want to do on your boat.

[pelagic4005]

Originally Posted by HeywoodJ

Butt splices are so old school. The only way to go with this is the Wago Lever Nut. Personally I prefer the 222, but the 221 works too. Readily available on Amazon (beware of knockoffs that may not have approval) in lots of 10 to 100. Come in two-wire, three-wire, five-wire, etc. ABS, Lloyd's, and BV approval for marine use.

See this article on "friction connectors" for ABYC's stance (from a few years ago, they may actually be incorporated into E11, but since that is hidden in the pay wall...).

My personal preference, not addressed anywhere in the directions on marine (or other) use is to stuff them full of dielectric grease before inserting wires.

Thank you, This is the way I will go

[pelagic4005]

'thank you all for your input. I am going with the wago splice option.

[stormalong]

Originally Posted by Bowdrie

Protect yourself, the first outlet from the breaker should be a GFCI then daisy-chain the others to it.

This is the answer. You can extend the GFCI protection to the subsequent outlets. Standard GFCI outlets are made to do this.

You do not need lever type connectors because you can use ring terminals to connect the next outlet in the daisy chain to the prior outlet. The less connections you have the better. KISS.

[GordMay]

Two methods:
Wire Nuts (Marrettes) not approved

[pelagic4005]

I thought the pass thru method was not permitted?