19 Volts

[Sandero]

I recently purchased an Intel Nuc and an HP monitor to replace my laptop which is ancient. In the past I charged the laptop via the inverter. We also installed a smart TV which ran on 110V and so we had to run the inverter for it and the small speakers as well.

I noticed that the input into the Nuc and the HP monitor are both 19v direct current and use the same plug!

I investigated and then purchased a SMAKN RC121910 DC-DC 12v t0 19v converter. It takes 9v-16v and outputs 19v. So no need for use of the inverter.

I'd like to avoid using the inverter if possible and for the Nuc and HP this is possible with the SMAKN. The question here is how to connect the SMAKN which has only pigtail outputs (2 - + & -). My thought to make this simple was to mount the SMAKN behind then DC distribution panel properly fused and connect its pigtails to a small terminal strip... and the use 2 made up wires with the proper plug on them with one plug into the Nuc and the other into the monitor. The two 19v leads would be coiled up and tucked out of site when not in use. Monitor and Nuc would / could be easily stowed when not on board or when underway. I don't use a PC for navigation... and don't intend to. The Nuc is more for work and internet use... I intend to tether it to a smart phone for internet access.

Unfortunately the made up cable length prevents setting up the nuc on the salon table. To do that I would have to splice on wire and make them longer... or use the inverter and the power cables which came with each... or maybe use a plug and socket and make up extension chords?

Has anyone done this? To you use designated 19v panel mounted outlet and matching plugs? Or hard wire as I am suggesting?

Any comments or suggestions? If you've done the DC to DC thing to avoid the inverter...how do you wire it?

[john61ct]

Personally I would wire 12V twist-lock outlets wherever I need them, and have a converter brick stay with each device.

Or you could wire a dedicated 19v circuit, with outlets of a different physical type. Merit/BMW style is nice, Anderson plugs for high amps. Clearly marked as 19V!

Just ensure beefy cables sufficient to avoid voltage drops.

Well-crimped heat-shrink insulated butt connectors matching the wire gauge.

[Pete7]

Originally Posted by john61ct

Personally I would wire 12V twist-lock outlets wherever I need them, and have a converter brick stay with each device.

My thoughts when reading the first post. Will those converters run both pc and tv without exceeding the maximum amps?

We have a 12v > 19v charger for the laptop, does get warm after a while.

Pete

[skipmac]

It would be a very simple job to make the cords longer for the NUC and monitor if you need more length. Just get some proper sized wire, good quality crimp butt connectors and a decent crimping tool and, within reason, make them as long as you need.

If you aren't experienced with crimping please say so and I'll be happy to add some information on that. If you don't have a decent crimping tool it's something that you can use for many other wiring jobs on a boat. First thing, do NOT use one of the cheap crimp kits sold at auto parts, discount stores, etc.

[Sandero]

The SMACKN is rated at rated at 10 amps. The HP monitor draws 1.58 amps and the Nuc draws 1.5 amps

loads are only 30% of the SMAKN rating.

[Sandero]

Originally Posted by Pete7

My thoughts when reading the first post. Will those converters run both pc and tv without exceeding the maximum amps?

We have a 12v > 19v charger for the laptop, does get warm after a while.

Pete

No converter bricks... that is the point of this exercise... the SMAKN outputs the required voltage for both the Monitor and the Nuc..... hard wired to compatible plugs.

Bricks convert line voltage AC current to 19v.

I will leave the old brick and cabling un affected and saved for if I want to use these devices where 110v AC line voltage is available.

[john61ct]

So you'll wire a dedicated 19v circuit, either hardwire for something stationary, or plugs/outlets of a different physical type from whatever you use for 12V, I'll assume Blue Sea twist lock, which work with the horrible stock ciggie plugs.

As I said, Merit plugs are good.

Clearly mark everything in the circuit as 19 volt.

[Sandero]

Originally Posted by john61ct

So you'll wire a dedicated 19v circuit, either hardwire for something stationary, or plugs/outlets of a different physical type from whatever you use for 12V, I'll assume Blue Sea twist lock, which work with the horrible stock ciggie plugs.

As I said, Merit plugs are good.

Clearly mark everything in the circuit as 19 volt.

Thanks.... There is one euro socket already in the panel.. nit used however... I may use the merit/bmw style.

[Pete7]

Originally Posted by Sandero

No converter bricks... that is the point of this exercise... the SMAKN outputs the required voltage for both the Monitor and the Nuc..... hard wired to compatible plugs.

Bricks convert line voltage AC current to 19v.

No mine are DC 12v to DC 19v converters not mains, which was what I was suggesting.

Pete

[john61ct]

Yes for others googling later, normal is 12V "charger" per device like you'd buy for car or RV use, plug into 12v DC socket as needed, or for something stationary hard wire.

But in OP's case already bought the big one a 19V circuit is fine NP just call it innovative. 8-)

[Sandero]

Originally Posted by Pete7

No mine are DC 12v to DC 19v converters not mains, which was what I was suggesting.

Pete

I see I don't know if NUC makes one or if another's plug will will work with the NUK. In any case the SMAKN is a brick sort of and will be mounted, fused and hard wired to the 2 devices using 19v using the correct plugs cannibalized from bricks I bought on the WWW

[Jd1]

Originally Posted by Sandero

The SMACKN is rated at rated at 10 amps. The HP monitor draws 1.58 amps and the Nuc draws 1.5 amps

loads are only 30% of the SMAKN rating.

Danger Will Robinson, danger , danger !

There are lies, damn lies and there is advertising speak!

It is not completely clear (to me) if the rated current for the converter is 10A at the input or 10A at the output. For maximum advertising impact, it is better to quote the (assumed) 10A current capability on the input.

The advertised specs are insufficient to draw proper conclusions as to it's capability.
Most modules of that variety are rated at the current capability when the case is at ambient temperature of around 20C. In other words, it might allow you to draw 10A on the input to the converter, supply 6A at the output as long as you have a small hurricane blowing on the case to cool it (or maybe if the case is submerged in liquid nitrogen ... the point is, you don't know and have to make assumptions)

The way I would look at it .... assume that you can draw 10A from your 12V line or 120W IF you provide some forced air cooling !!! That translates to about 6A at the output!
For safe operation and a decent life span, I would rate this module at 4A on the output on the assumption that you have the module mounted in a location with decent air flow but no forced air cooling or 3A if it is mounted in an enclosed area (behind the fuse panel).

[john61ct]

Well anyone would think he'd actually test it with both devices running full bore before going to any trouble permanently wiring it in, right?

With an ammeter actually measure the actual loads maybe?

After an hour of both full bore, feel the brick, is it hot to the touch?

[Hkalan]

I've been converting all my Apple gear to DC to DC as well. I run at 24v so I use bucking converters.

Here is my conversion video.

https://youtu.be/3pCrk4wiLIM

Alan