2 Electrical Questions

[_LifeInTheWild_]

1. I have two 6v batteries that I am going to put into a series. What color cables do you usually use for the pos. To neg. cables?

2. The previous owner of my boat didn't wire a breaker for the shore power (ac). It is just direct connected to two outlets. I am adding a breaker panel. I feel that there should be a breaker of some type at the point of entry. I am not sure I trust the breaker at a marina pedestal. I would hate to have a fire at the point of entry. Is this even a concern?


Thanks.

[boatpoker]

Originally Posted by _LifeInTheWild_

1. I have two 6v batteries that I am going to put into a series. What color cables do you usually use for the pos. To neg. cables?

2. The previous owner of my boat didn't wire a breaker for the shore power (ac). It is just direct connected to two outlets. I am adding a breaker panel. I feel that there should be a breaker of some type at the point of entry. I am not sure I trust the breaker at a marina pedestal. I would hate to have a fire at the point of entry. Is this even a concern?


Thanks.

It is a huge concern and dangerous. Are you in a marina that does not require proof of insurance ? Did your surveyor not warn you about this or did you manage to get insurance without a survey ?

This is not rocket science but there are specific requirements that you are unaware of. Bite the bullet and hire an ABYC Certified Marine Electrician to instruct you, you are literally playing with fire.

[_LifeInTheWild_]

I was aware of it before and it was called out on the survey. The boat is on the hard as I am working on it. I am very aware of the dangers that marine electrical, particularly ac, possess. I am hyper detail orientated and am doing the work myself. I may look to have it verified.
I should have also added that my run from the inlet to my breaker is less than 10'. The code says over 10' and you need another breaker close to the inlet according to what I just found. I guess that scratches question #2.

[smac999]

#1 who cares. anything you want... it's 6" long. red, yellow, or black would be normal. if you want to be fancy one end would have red and the other end yellow heatshrink.

#2 yes you need an AC panel, unless the incoming line is only 15a from a 15a dock outlet. if a GCFI outlet even better.

if it's comming from a 30a shore cord you need a 30a double pole main ELCI breaker and then 15a sub breakers. and I would also recommend a galvanic isolator.

those 2 AC items makes this a $1000 project.

[_LifeInTheWild_]

Originally Posted by smac999

#1 who cares. anything you want... it's 6" long. red, yellow, or black would be normal. if you want to be fancy one end would have red and the other end yellow heatshrink.

#2 yes you need an AC panel, unless the incoming line is only 15a from a 15a dock outlet. if a GCFI outlet even better.

if it's comming from a 30a shore cord you need a 30a double pole main ELCI breaker and then 15a sub breakers. and I would also recommend a galvanic isolator.

those 2 AC items makes this a $1000 project.

I might be a little fancy. The half and half seems appealing. Some additional visual reference can't hurt.


Lol, I wish $1,000 was all it was. It is a 30' boat. I will probably do a single outlet. I am trying to keep.things super simple. Less to go wrong, and cheaper. I am currently in fresh water. I am getting an isolator and the ELCI becomes even more important.

[CharlieJ]

I install battery banks on boats for a living. I use red for the B+/B- jumper but then I put a piece of yellow heat shrink or electrical tape at the mid-point to show that this wire is different. Helps the novice understand what is going on at the bank.

[Jammer]

Originally Posted by _LifeInTheWild_

1. I have two 6v batteries that I am going to put into a series. What color cables do you usually use for the pos. To neg. cables?

Whatever's in the pile of leftovers that's the right gauge

2. The previous owner of my boat didn't wire a breaker for the shore power (ac). It is just direct connected to two outlets. I am adding a breaker panel. I feel that there should be a breaker of some type at the point of entry. I am not sure I trust the breaker at a marina pedestal. I would hate to have a fire at the point of entry. Is this even a concern?

You have to decide how much safety you can afford and whether shore power upgrades are the best use of your available safety budget given any other safety upgrades that you may be considering (e.g. bilge pump, thru-hulls, lifeboat, propane system, DC electrical). Posters upthread have cited the current ABYC requirements which do result in a safe installation. There are other alternatives. For example, perhaps you do not need shore power at all and can simply remove the existing installation and patch the holes. Or perhaps a modest solar installation would eliminate your need for shore power.


Installations where there is a shore power cord that terminates at four onboard outlets all in one place were not uncommon in years past. Overcurrent protection has always been required but not every boat is so equipped.


Most shore power fires are caused by corrosion and lack of maintenance rather than an overcurrent condition.

[Madehn]

+1 BUT it is not going to cost you $1000 to do this if you do a little shopping at a salvage store. even new -- get the GFI outlets at home depot $25 bucks each- the double breaker with polarity indicator from defender-about 54$ the two 15 amp breakers $17 each and tinned wire from any marine supply store and the galvanic isolator from defender 200-250 bucks should be able to keep it under $450 bucks with a little work-- make your own panel from a piece of scrap aluminum- takes time but saves money

#1 who cares. anything you want... it's 6" long. red, yellow, or black would be normal. if you want to be fancy one end would have red and the other end yellow heatshrink.

#2 yes you need an AC panel, unless the incoming line is only 15a from a 15a dock outlet. if a GCFI outlet even better.

if it's comming from a 30a shore cord you need a 30a double pole main ELCI breaker and then 15a sub breakers. and I would also recommend a galvanic isolator.

[Charlie]

Typical on boat batteries red is for positive and black for negative. It makes it easier to identify. Doing the work yourself you should be able to do it well under a boat buck ($1000). You might want to buy Nigel Caulder's book. It will run you through most of what you need to know (without snide comments).

I think you should do a survey of how much AC power you need. Do you run a battery charger? TV? Water heater?

CharlieJ would be better able to answer this question but I believe you need double pull breakers on your AC. These interrupt both the positive and the neutral wires. Then you need a separate ground. A 30' boat can have a simple electrical system.