2 x 200A fuses = 1 x 400A fuse?

[hellosailor]

"Wireless in that you hookup the meter then detach the display"

"Dude, there's an app for that!"

What, there isn't an app for that? I can't read the meter on my smartphone? I can't get a Fluke Smartphone with the app already bundled into it?!

[colemj]

Originally Posted by noelex 77

The ABYC maximum amperage for wire in conduit or bundled 4/0 wire is:
for 75C rated wire
189A inside the engine space
252A outside the engine space

For 105C wire
264A inside the engine space
311A outside the engine space.

Generally voltage drop considerations are going to be the factor that dictates a larger wire size, but even this maximum current carring capacity is in danger of being exceeded.

Running 5' of cable through a conduit or other bundle would be an unusual and/or difficult installation for a large inverter/charger. These, by necessity, are located very close to the batteries they are powered by. The manufacturers recommend no longer than 5' away. Allowing for two feet of free cable to make turns and connect to the unit, fuse and batteries, do you just hang 3' of conduit in midair and derate the cable? Unbundled, the current allowed is 445A for 105C cable.

The OP is not guessing here - he is following his installation manual instructions. The manufacturers of these units are high-end, high quality and have been in the marine industry many years. They have figured out proper and compliant installations for their units.

Mark

[noelex 77]

The biggest market for inverter chargers is the home alternative energy market and the instructions reflect this.
Marine instalations require a different set of compromises.

I think the the ABYC guidelines are a sensible standard. I would suggest meeting or exceeding these minimum satandards.

Placing the Inverter/ charger close to the batteries is desirable solution and helps reduce wire size, but within 5 feet is not common. My own inverter ( and charger) is about 3m (9 feet). The round trip from the house batteries is double this. This sort of distance is typical.
The batteries are placed as low down as possible in a boat and this is not generally a suitable place for electronics.

If you can place your 3kv inverter /charger within less than 5feet of the house batteries and are happy to use no conduit when passing through bulkheads the battery box etc you just meeting the minimum standards with 4/0 wire.
For most installations I would insist on something larger.

[RickR]

Originally Posted by hellosailor

"Wireless in that you hookup the meter then detach the display"

"Dude, there's an app for that!"

What, there isn't an app for that? I can't read the meter on my smartphone? I can't get a Fluke Smartphone with the app already bundled into it?!

Well I did ask Fluke about iPhone app to read the meters but they use a different protocol then standard wifi or bluetooth but they are looking into it. Where I work we have wifi through most of the plant primarily for contractors who come in when we are down for overhaul in the spring. There is a meter set to work with your iPhone it costs about $300.00 but does not meet NFPA70E ratings as in Cat II, III or IV google "iDVM Wireless Multimeter".

The 233 MSRP is $299 the 381 Clampmeter is $499 and the yet to be released CNX3000 approximately as I was told under $1000.00 for the setup I was given for testing that is the second prototype they gave me in the picture. Also they have not yet made modules that read DC but since in the power/utilities industry we use station batteries(135VDC) to operate relaying and switch gear they might come out with a DC line of modules, If money is not a big deal I would say get the 381 as it is a meter for ac/dc current along with volts and ohms, it even has the flexible Icurrent lead for hard to reach places the only drawback is they go through batteries even when turned off so I pull them when not in use.
Or wait for the new CNX system and pick and choose the modules I have a ACVoltage module AC Ampclamp and AC Iflex along with a Thermocouple module for temperature. I attached a picture of the system in drawing format since like I said still not released yet. I also know Rigid Tools is looking into developing a meter for the i series of pod pads and phones
All snark aside you get what you pay for like I said most Harbor Freight meters will do but if you want a meter that will stand the test of time Fluke is one of the best you can get and you will pay for that.

Rick
Brrr Wind II

[delmarrey]

RickR,

You must have a late 70's or early 80's boat. That's the same power panel as mine. Didn't think I'd ever see another one.

[Dsanduril]

Originally Posted by delmarrey

RickR,

You must have a late 70's or early 80's boat. That's the same power panel as mine. Didn't think I'd ever see another one.

I had the same thought That's a Marinetics panel out of Newport Beach. Ours was installed in 1975 and still runs fine.

[RickR]

Originally Posted by Originally Posted by [B

delmarrey[/B] Re: Thread drift for a moment
RickR,

You must have a late 70's or early 80's boat. That's the same power panel as mine. Didn't think I'd ever see another one.


Dsanduril I had the same thought That's a Marinetics panel out of Newport Beach. Ours was installed in 1975 and still runs fine.

Ok well as you can see in my avatar it is a Tartan T.O.C.K. made in 1977 HULL #25 OF 30. The ship was made in Grand River Ohio.
I've been living aboard her for going on two years now and hope to be ready to sail away in two years when other obligations are finished. And she was a fixer-upper I'm still working on her!