Alternator regulators Balmar or Mark Grasser

[CarinaPDX]

Suddenly there is a lot of new activity in the regulator market.

Wakespeed is very interesting: their WS500 is an evolved version of the OpenRegulator project and is probably the most flexible solution if a bit expensive, while the WS100 is a basic smart regulator developed by a couple of other guys (one now deceased) which is more than adequate as long as you don't need remote voltage sense or control of N-type alternators. I have spent some time talking with Rick Jones, the surviving member of the WS100 team, and am pretty impressed with their efforts. They are clearing inventory of the earlier production run on eBay so if saving $50 is of interest head on over there.

I have a Volvo-Penta D2-40, which has an N-type alternator which most American-made smart regulators can't control (the WS500 can). I was looking at the Mastervolt, which is good for N-type and can be part of a larger smart system but found a regulator that is designed specifically for the V-P engines (mentioned on another thread). It doesn't require removing or bypassing the internal regulator but instead utilizes the remote sense that is standard on that alternator. For V-P installations it is a perfect solution. See SeaLITHIUM VRC-100 Advanced Alternator Controller | | Nordkyn Design He is currently out of stock but will shortly be shipping a modestly-upgraded version (VRC-200) at the same price.

I too have used one of the first Ample Power regulators. Mine was quite adjustable but only did the basics; no soft start, output limiting, etc. It did the job well - I got my money's worth out of it. If I didn't have the N-type alternator I would keep it simple with the WS100.

Everyone talks about the Blue Seas ACR; I bought the ProMariner ProIsoCharge instead. It appears to be a bit more sophisticated, and if using a remote-sensing regulator it provides management of the voltage sense depending on the bank being charged. Cool.

Greg

[stormalong]

From the description of your problem it sounds like your existing VR is being powered even though the ignition is off. Either that or the VR output MOSFET is shorted. In either case you may be draining your battery through your alternator field circuit. Check if your alternator is warm after the engine is cold. If that is the case disconnect the regulator before you end up with a dead battery.

[Sailmonkey]

Originally Posted by stormalong

From the description of your problem it sounds like your existing VR is being powered even though the ignition is off. Either that or the VR output MOSFET is shorted. In either case you may be draining your battery through your alternator field circuit. Check if your alternator is warm after the engine is cold. If that is the case disconnect the regulator before you end up with a dead battery.

The regulator is intended to remain on in a low power state with the ignition off to control a parallel/combine relay to keep the start battery charged of the house bank voltage is high enough.

My problem is that the regulator has decided to keep the parallel circuit energized at all times now. The field circuit is off.

I never would have noticed this little problem except that I’ve reduced the solar to 100 watts while I work on other stuff, and we’ve had clouds an rain for damn near three weeks. The constant draw of the solenoid has drained the batteries!

[stormalong]

Originally Posted by Sailmonkey

The regulator is intended to remain on in a low power state with the ignition off to control a parallel/combine relay to keep the start battery charged of the house bank voltage is high enough.

My problem is that the regulator has decided to keep the parallel circuit energized at all times now. The field circuit is off.

I never would have noticed this little problem except that I’ve reduced the solar to 100 watts while I work on other stuff, and we’ve had clouds an rain for damn near three weeks. The constant draw of the solenoid has drained the batteries!

You are describing an ACR - automatic charge regulator or relay, not a voltage regulator - very different devices. Ample power made both but I was not aware they made a combined unit. I am still using a 1992 vintage Ample power voltage regulator and had used their ACR for a very short time but was disappointed with it and removed it. Their ACR of that age did not activate a solenoid.

[donradcliffe]

My experience has been that the Balmar regulators are pretty good IF THEY ARE NOT INSIDE THE ENGINE COMPARTMENT. They don't like heat.

[Sailmonkey]

Originally Posted by stormalong

From the description of your problem it sounds like your existing VR is being powered even though the ignition is off. Either that or the VR output MOSFET is shorted. In either case you may be draining your battery through your alternator field circuit. Check if your alternator is warm after the engine is cold. If that is the case disconnect the regulator before you end up with a dead battery.

The regulator is intended to remain on in a low power state with the ignition off to control a parallel/combine relay to keep the start battery charged of the house bank voltage is high enough.

My problem is that the regulator has decided to keep the parallel circuit energized at all times now. The field circuit is off.

I never would have noticed this little problem except that I’ve reduced the solar to 100 watts while I work on other stuff, and we’ve had clouds an rain for damn near three weeks. The constant draw of the solenoid has drained the batteries!

[john61ct]

Originally Posted by Sailmonkey

My problem is that the regulator has decided to keep the parallel circuit energized at all times now.

And by "regulator" here, you do mean the VR of the Alternator?

Has a built-in VSR/ACR designed to work when no Alt power is being produced, with the power from other charges sources?

[Sailmonkey]

Originally Posted by john61ct

And by "regulator" here, you do mean the VR of the Alternator?

Has a built-in VSR/ACR designed to work when no Alt power is being produced, with the power from other charges sources?

That is correct. My current alternator regulator operates a parallel solenoid even when the ignition is off. When house bank voltage is above a set point (13 if I remember correctly) the house and start batteries are connected.

[Sailmonkey]

Originally Posted by stormalong

You are describing an ACR - automatic charge regulator or relay, not a voltage regulator - very different devices. Ample power made both but I was not aware they made a combined unit. I am still using a 1992 vintage Ample power voltage regulator and had used their ACR for a very short time but was disappointed with it and removed it. Their ACR of that age did not activate a solenoid.

The Ample Power SARV3 has a built in circuit to control a solenoid in the same manner as a stand alone ACR.

I know what I'm describing, and in this case the ACR is a function of the alternator regulator.

[Sailmonkey]

FWIW I've gone the Balmar route for the regulator and a Victron Cyrix CT for the ACR.

I chose the Balmar over the Grasser so I would have the ability to program differing durations of bulk or absorption as required over time.

[stormalong]

Originally Posted by Sailmonkey

The Ample Power SARV3 has a built in circuit to control a solenoid in the same manner as a stand alone ACR.

I know what I'm describing, and in this case the ACR is a function of the alternator regulator.

Ok but what you are describing will only combine the batteries when running the engine. An independent ACR will also work when charging from shore power of solar.

[Sailmonkey]

Originally Posted by stormalong

Ok but what you are describing will only combine the batteries when running the engine. An independent ACR will also work when charging from shore power of solar.

As I stated in post #23, My current regulator, an Ample Power SAR-V3 is always on in a low power state monitoring the house bank voltage. If the house bank voltage is above a setpoint (I don't remember off the top of my head) it sends voltage to a parallel circuit, combining the house and start battery.

When the ignition switch is turned on, it then becomes a voltage regulator for the alternator. Until the voltage is supplied from the ignition switch, there is no power applied to the alternator field.

As we have no charging sources connected to the start battery this setup has worked very well.

[john61ct]

The Cyrix VSRs have a poor rep, unusual for Victron.

Blue Seas much better.

If main sources all go direct to House, as is best, then just a little 15A Echo Charger is fine to keep Starter topped up.

[Sailmonkey]

Originally Posted by john61ct

The Cyrix VSRs have a poor rep, unusual for Victron.

Blue Seas much better.

If main sources all go direct to House, as is best, then just a little 15A Echo Charger is fine to keep Starter topped up.

I've only found problems with the Cyrix VSR's (googling for 30 mins) related to installations where the start battery was primary. I'm banking on very little trouble with it as the current it will be tasked with to charge the start battery is going to be minuscule.

[Q Xopa]

Originally Posted by john61ct

The Cyrix VSRs have a poor rep, unusual for Victron.

Blue Seas much better.

If main sources all go direct to House, as is best, then just a little 15A Echo Charger is fine to keep Starter topped up.

Yes the BlueSea ACRs are good mostly. I have one. However they can cause troubles when for example when we have for example a deeply depleted batt, lets say an LFP, when we join them there can be a huge in rush of current getting sucked from the good batt into the depleted one. This can blow batt fuses and exceed the ACR rating etc.
Im leaning towards these https://www.victronenergy.com/batter...tery-isolators
Just sayin.