Alternator Upgrade - Balmar - What is this?

[IBlake]

Here is a link to Electromaxx that makes kits for serpentine belt conversions. I got my kit several years ago from a local company and the only problem was the main shaft pully was not the size the kit was built for. The supplier had a lot of old engines so he found a pully that was the correct size for the kit removed it cleaned it up for me. So I had to replace the main pully before putting the serpentine shell over the newly installed main pully. I upgraded to 120A Balmar which was almost too big to fit on my 29hp Perkins. Works great with Balmar regulator that provides many adjustments in epoxy sealed unit using a magnetic pointer to make adjustments. https://electromaax.com/Serpentine-Pulley-Upgrade-Kits/ No more black dust, loose belt or over tightened belt threating the bearings.

[smac999]

The link 2000r regulator used an alternator shunt for control. It’s possible other ones did too. The balmar does not.

Or it may just be for a gauge.

I would get rid of the shunt and battery isolator. And replan your system.

Someone has tapped that shunt for power which is odd as it’ll only have power when the alt is charging. Could be a volt gauge I guess. You’ll want to trace that.

[Stu Jackson]

Originally Posted by smac999

The link 2000r regulator used an alternator shunt for control. It’s possible other ones did too. The balmar does not.

Or it may just be for a gauge.
>>>>>>>>>>>>>

Actually, it does not.


The shunt is there for the Link 2000 functions, i.e., dual bank battery monitor.


The Link 2000r --- the r feature, is simply an external regulator built into the Link package.


Same display as a Link 2000 with the added regulator.


One part does not interact the with other.

[smac999]

Originally Posted by Stu Jackson

Actually, it does not.


The shunt is there for the Link 2000 functions, i.e., dual bank battery monitor.


The Link 2000r --- the r feature, is simply an external regulator built into the Link package.


Same display as a Link 2000 with the added regulator.


One part does not interact the with other.

they are networked with a phone cable and do interact with each other.

it has both the battery shunt of the battery monitor functions as well as an alternator shunt for the regulator controller wired to the regulator.

http://www.xantrex.com/documents/Dis...-1(vendor).pdf

[RaymondR]

Originally Posted by smac999

The link 2000r regulator used an alternator shunt for control. It’s possible other ones did too. The balmar does not.

Or it may just be for a gauge.

I would get rid of the shunt and battery isolator. And replan your system.

Someone has tapped that shunt for power which is odd as it’ll only have power when the alt is charging. Could be a volt gauge I guess. You’ll want to trace that.

Good quality shunts for measuring current pretty well all have separate terminals for the voltage offtake to the meter which are the two smaller ones closer to the middle.

I might be wrong but I cannot fathom why one would want to current regulate an alternator. Voltage and temperature limits appear more logical?

[smac999]

Originally Posted by RaymondR

Good quality shunts for measuring current pretty well all have separate terminals for the voltage offtake to the meter which are the two smaller ones closer to the middle.

yes and OP has 5 wires. the small red is tapped off powering something. and no fuse in that pic.

[David B]

Originally Posted by NickBee

Hi,

I have a Dufour Gibsea 43 - 2000. I will upgrade the alternator for a 100A Balmar with a ARS-5 Voltage Regulator. This boat originally comes with a Battery Isolator to divide the House and Starter battery. Close to the Isolator (DIVI-CHARGE), there is a kind of ''shunt'' that I think is connected to the existing Regulator with a blue and black wire. It also seems like the power from the alternator is connected to this device before going into the Isolator... (see photo attached).

Is this is a kind of ''power monitoring'' from my old alternator? Can I remove this completely and install my new ARS5?

(my boat is on the dry, winterized and I don't have access to it.. I base my supposition on pictures.)

Thanks for your Help!

Current shunt. A very low resistance conductor, that provides sufficient voltage drop (measured in mV - millivolts, so no effect on the electrical/electronics on board).
If you are not going to use it / the metering is no longer there, then just remove it.