Balmar MC-614 Regulator Failure - Software Reset????

[Wotname]

Short version - the MC-614 regulator does not supply any field voltage; all other voltages, wiring and alternator are OK. What's next, replace the regulator or reset the software (if possible?) ???

Long version - the 2012 MC-614 regulator has failed last week without any apparent cause. All the wiring, connectors and fuses have been checked and found OK. There is no corrosion and the regulator is mounted in a cool dry location. The alternator (large frame on a Ford Lehmann engine) is working correctly when the rotor (field) is provided with an external voltage source.

The voltages to the power and ignition terminals of the regulator are correct. The ground terminal is correct. There is ZERO volts at the field terminal. Both the Dash and Aux #1 lamps are illuminated.

Clearly the regulator has failed but is there anything that can tried before replacing it. Can the software be reset? I found no direct reference to a reset in the manual.

All other aspects of the regulator appear OK. The display is currently programmed for 'Short Display' and the various parameters (voltages, battery and alternator temperatures etc) read correctly. I have not tried to reprogram battery type (AGMs) as we did not have a suitable magnet on board today.

Any ideas appreciated!

[smac999]

Sounds like it needs to be replaced.

I would cut the field line just past the reg and measure again. Incase the wire is shorting or something weird happening to kill the field voltage Downstream of the reg .

I would also switch to long display and you’ll see the field output %. If it says o% then maybe something’ weird with software. . If it says ~80% yet no voltage. Then something has failed. And probably needs replacing.

[dsteinfeld]

I had an MC-612 fail. If the mode displayed is correct (“bulk”) at start up then the likely culprit is the output transistor. Since these regulators are potted they’re “repair proof”. I replaced it with an MC-614 but these days there are more flexible alternatives that I’d look at if I were in the market for a replacement.

[Wotname]

Originally Posted by smac999

Sounds like it needs to be replaced.

I would cut the field line just past the reg and measure again. Incase the wire is shorting or something weird happening to kill the field voltage Downstream of the reg .
Already done - no change!
I would also switch to long display and you’ll see the field output %. If it says o% then maybe something’ weird with software. . If it says ~80% yet no voltage. Then something has failed. And probably needs replacing.

Good idea, will have to find a magnet though. I believe (but don't know for sure) that the Aux #1 lamp is indicating 'full field' yet there is zero volts at the terminal (either O/C or connected).

[PNWSalmon]

If the unit is in the engine room and exposed to heat it will fail eventually. Best bet is to relocate the replacement in a cooler spot. Additionally, it seems that the newer units have better heat resistance. I’ve had to replace these both on my boat as well as a friend’s boat with similar failure scenarios as you’re describing.

[MJH]

Originally Posted by Wotname

Short version - the MC-614 regulator does not supply any field voltage; all other voltages, wiring and alternator are OK. What's next, replace the regulator or reset the software (if possible?) ???

Long version - the 2012 MC-614 regulator has failed last week without any apparent cause. All the wiring, connectors and fuses have been checked and found OK. There is no corrosion and the regulator is mounted in a cool dry location. The alternator (large frame on a Ford Lehmann engine) is working correctly when the rotor (field) is provided with an external voltage source.

The voltages to the power and ignition terminals of the regulator are correct. The ground terminal is correct. There is ZERO volts at the field terminal. Both the Dash and Aux #1 lamps are illuminated.

Clearly the regulator has failed but is there anything that can tried before replacing it. Can the software be reset? I found no direct reference to a reset in the manual.

All other aspects of the regulator appear OK. The display is currently programmed for 'Short Display' and the various parameters (voltages, battery and alternator temperatures etc) read correctly. I have not tried to reprogram battery type (AGMs) as we did not have a suitable magnet on board today.

Any ideas appreciated!

I would not be eager to replace the unit without first checking/reprogramming the unit...what happened to the "Magnet Programming Tool"...I keep mine immediately next to the unit. This will prepare you for the next step. Then, I would call Balmar Tech Support for their advice...I have called them numerous times and always been pleased with their support.

Good Luck.

~ ~ _/) ~ ~ MJH

[theDangerz]

Following.

Our 614 recently stopped working.
Days on call with Balmar tech support (which has been great) couldn't solve it and we sent it all the way back to the states where the bench tested it, proved it was fine and then sent back to us (yet still not working).

[SV Bacchus]

I needed to reprogram mine while in the Chesapeake. I could not find my Balmar supplied magnet/screwdriver and couldn’t locate one anywhere in Hayes, VA. I ended up going to an Arts & Craft type store and found the little magnets in a small plastic holder designed for magnetic message boards that people have in their kitchens.

Easy to hold and works a treat. Look for those if you can’t find your supplied tool.

[JohannDW]

My Balmar 614 did a similar thing. Lit up and looked normal but would not charge.

The solution was that one of the sensors was faulty. I disconnected the battery temp sensor and the unit started charging. Worth a try.

[Stu Jackson]

Originally Posted by JohannDW

.................

The solution was that one of the sensors was faulty. I disconnected the battery temp sensor and the unit started charging. Worth a try.

This makes a lot of sense. I have an M612, but no external connections or problems in a decade of use.


The OP mentioned he has the alarm lights, too.


I'd start from scratch. At least go to long display and check each step.


No power at field? Two ends to every wire, or is it just the power inside the regulator?



I know this doesn't help, but I really couldn't help myself (of course I could, but...) How can one not know where the adjusting tool is? It is part of the damn regulator, or should be.


Sorry, now I'll have to go out and find something I misplaced that I should know where it is...

[theDangerz]

Originally Posted by Stu Jackson

I know this doesn't help, but I really couldn't help myself (of course I could, but...) How can one not know where the adjusting tool is? It is part of the damn regulator, or should be.

I cant speak for the OP, but we have a similar issue.
Regulator came with the boat... the adjusting tool however didn't seem to.

[smac999]

Originally Posted by SV Bacchus

I needed to reprogram mine while in the Chesapeake. I could not find my Balmar supplied magnet/screwdriver and couldn’t locate one anywhere in Hayes, VA. I ended up going to an Arts & Craft type store and found the little magnets in a small plastic holder designed for magnetic message boards that people have in their kitchens.

Easy to hold and works a treat. Look for those if you can’t find your supplied tool.

I've also used a telescoping magnet tool for picking up stuff which I keep in my tool kit. though less usefull on a boat with stainless everything.

[Wotname]

Originally Posted by JohannDW

My Balmar 614 did a similar thing. Lit up and looked normal but would not charge.

The solution was that one of the sensors was faulty. I disconnected the battery temp sensor and the unit started charging. Worth a try.

Thanks, it is certainly worth a try. I had discounted the sensors as they were reporting the expected temperatures but it will be worthwhile to disconnect them to be sure.

[Wotname]

Originally Posted by Stu Jackson

This makes a lot of sense. I have an M612, but no external connections or problems in a decade of use.


The OP mentioned he has the alarm lights, too.


I'd start from scratch. At least go to long display and check each step.


No power at field? Two ends to every wire, or is it just the power inside the regulator?......................

No power from inside the regulator with the field wire disconnected at the regulator.

Additionally, in order to prove the alternator aspects, an external 12V source was supplied to the alternator via the harness wire (regulator still disconnected) and alternator worked 'normally' - unregulated of course and with all voltage sensitive loads turned off.

The replies so far seem to confirm there is no additional 'software reset' function (apart from removing power to the regulator) so I will most likely follow your suggestion and reprogram the unit as well as trying with the temperature sensors disconnected.

FWIW, Balmar tech support have been emailed but due to the weekend and time differences from down under, no reply has been received (yet).

[CarlF]

I've had a 612 and a 614 fail over the years. Similar symptoms to what you report. No amount of fiddling brought them back to life.

I now carry a spare. Takes only a few minutes to swap it in.

Have you done the troubleshooting process that starts on page 17 of the manual?

https://www.balmar.net/wp-content/up...ion-Manual.pdf