Batteries not operating normal since solar installation

[Stu Jackson]

Originally Posted by Laceynhans

Ok, that was my thought, also with the fridge, but they still test at 'fair'. Does fair mean caputz? And they are under a year old. We have been fairly abusive to them, but not extreme. So the panels are in Parallel right now, adding more amps less volts. Any logic to switching to series? Adding more volts and same amps? Sorry for my ignorance but this is really confusing me

Coincidence, connections and confusion. Worrisome triangle there.

Ignorance can be treated, right? How did you decide on parallel? Did some reading, right? None of us was born an electrician, we read and learned.

If you have voltage at your starter, it's when the starter isn't trying to draw current. Once it tries to start and pulls amps, the voltage sags. Not enough "pressure" (i.e., voltage).

If your batteries are in the process of dying, and it sounds like they are, these are traditional symptoms. "Fairly abusive but not extreme"? Really? Given your stated ignorance, how could you say that? You already have a reply that covers that.

You seem to have a good system that needs new batteries, cleaned connections and some books to read.

Why did you get the solar to begin with? To keep the batteries charged and the fridge running at night, right? Sometimes timing is everything.

Good luck, happy learning.

[a64pilot]

Originally Posted by CaptRory

I don't know about your set up... But remember, if you do not have the appropriate diodes in there, the current reverses in the dark and you send your stored power back out into space.

Don't "all" panels have diodes in them? I put all in parenthesis as I don't think such a blanket statement can be made, but surely nearly all?
Plus aren't charge controllers made so that they do not send power back to the panels?

[mikecambrai]

I would first of all suggest going back to where you were before you fitted the solars. Charge up the batteries using a smart charger which will take them through all the different stages of charging. Using an alternator or the DC current from a generator will not be smart enough to charge the battery fully.
Charging will take some 15 hours depending on your charger which should be from a shore suppply (15 hours is a long time on a generator). Having got the batteries in their best state, check the voltages and SG across each cell. Once you know that all is well with the batteries now connect the solars and measure the solar outputs.
Open circuit voltage should be around 20v and go to the battery voltage when connected in series with an MMPT or AWM controller. I always have a visible reading of voltage somewhere close by so that I can check the reading as I pass. A simple digital gauge is the easiest way to do this (peanuts on ebay).
Fullly charged the battery should read around 12.7 volts but as soon as you start to take current it will drop to a lower reading depending on the current that you are takiing.
Somewhere along this process you should see what is not right and act upon the information accordingly. Perhaps report back to the forum then?

[redhead]

Originally Posted by captstu

Sounds like one or more cells may be low on water - or dirty connections.

If you are seeing nominal (12.2 to 12.7 volts) with the fridge running, try covering the cells with a towel and see if the voltage drops significantly. If so, you have a failing cell.

Not to hijack, but why "cover the cells with a towel and see if the voltage drops signigicantly. If so you have a failing cell". How does this work?

As always, thanks.

[a64pilot]

Originally Posted by redhead

Not to hijack, but why "cover the cells with a towel and see if the voltage drops signigicantly. If so you have a failing cell". How does this work?

As always, thanks.

I think he meant solar cells (panels) and if the voltage drops maybe you have a bad cell in a battery, or of course a severely discharged bank

However usually testing for dead batteries is easy, make sure all connections are clean and tight, put a multimeter on your starter, turn the key, if voltage drops below 11 or so then either you have a bad connection still or you batteries are very suspect.
Now I'm not trying to say this will tell you anything except your bank is highly suspect, but a battery bank that wont hold voltage starting a tiny little sailboat engine, there is a problem

[Stu Jackson]

Originally Posted by redhead

Not to hijack, but why "cover the cells with a towel and see if the voltage drops signigicantly. If so you have a failing cell". How does this work?

As always, thanks.

It works because if the voltage sags when a load is placed on the bank without charging sources being present, it tells you the bank is suspect.


Another way to do what a64 suggests in reply #20.

[SeeMonstrEd]

If your batteries are questionable, and you can't afford to replace them all, take them to your local auto parts store. Most stores have a battery tester that can give you a real reading of their status.

I did this with mine and only had to replace one of them. The rest have been going strong for 2 years.

Capt Ed
'Penny pincher'

[buzzstar]

Originally Posted by CaptRory

I don't know about your set up... But remember, if you do not have the appropriate diodes in there, the current reverses in the dark and you send your stored power back out into space.

Although I am not an electrical guru this was my thought, so I second the idea. Do check it out as to both the existence and if it exists to see if it is doing its job. This was a problem in early systems and installs, now infrequent, but it happens, and the signs and symptoms are there.

[uncle stinkybob]

Charge battery's to capacity then load test battery's.

[ramblinrod]

Originally Posted by Laceynhans

Good morning
I need help from some electrical gurus. I recently installed 590watt solar in parallel with a victron 100/50 controller connected to 2 8d deep cycles of "fair condition" . Yeah solar!! Happy days. Within a week I notice my fridge, keel cooled fridgeoboat, starts and stops immediately all night long, batteries still 12.5 ish. Manual says may be an amperage issue, call technician. But fridge works like a champ all day..hmmm. Now, another week later, house batteries will no longer crank my engine over. Perhaps is is coincidence but It seems to closely connected. As luck would have it my engine start (designated and completely separated) is not holding charge, so the only way to crank engine is to plug generator in and "jump" the engine, even though house batteries are charging or floating at 14+. Thanks for any thoughts

There are a whole bunch of things troublesome about your posts, suggesting you have insufficient knowledge of marine electrical systems and standards to safely and reliably install, troubleshoot, and repair an electrical system.

I suggest contacting a certified marine electrical technician for assistance.

They should be able to tell you exactly what is wrong in 15 minutes. May not
even charge for diagnosis if already in the area. In the worst case, may charge $50, and may help save you from hurting yourself, burning down your boat,
or wasting money on things you may not need attempting to repair by trial and error.

If they tell you your electrical system is unsafe, LISTEN! Either hire them to fix it or learn everything you can about marine electrical systems and standards and follow them to the letter.

[leftbrainstuff]

Originally Posted by SeeMonstrEd

If your batteries are questionable, and you can't afford to replace them all, take them to your local auto parts store. Most stores have a battery tester that can give you a real reading of their status.

I did this with mine and only had to replace one of them. The rest have been going strong for 2 years.

Capt Ed
'Penny pincher'

You dont need an automotive starting battery load tester. That just duplicates a short duration high current start load.

Just use the loads in the boat and measure each hour. You'll quickly determine which, if any battery is bad and determine if the batts ate still usable.

You can even use one or part of your bank as a reference. Disconnect it, charge fully then watch it's decay.

[StuM]

Originally Posted by Laceynhans

Fridge used to work before solar all the way down to 11.5, solar is wired with 10awg less than 15ft. I tested batteries yesterday and all cells were "fair". A bit low on fluid so I added some distilled water.

How often have you had those batteries down to 11.5?

Bad!!!!

[newhaul]

OK my big question is what brand of 8D battery do you have? There are very few manufacturers of true deep cycle 8 D batteries most are actually starting and using them as part of a deep cycling bank will kill them in short order.
As to your sudden issue I bet it was happening prior to the solar install just not as bad as now .
( you are noticing it more due to recent working on the system)
As others have sugested check all of your connections. On the blocking/ bypass diode issue I have not seen a panel made in the last ten years that didn't have them. Also your victron controller definitely has one.

[Alan Waters]

On my second reading of "Sailboat Electrics Simplified" by Don Casey. It is on my level.

[Kita]

Originally Posted by 1affiah

You should start by cleaning all of the battery terminals, both pos & neg, and check all wiring connections between the batteries, solar, fridge, engine & grounds, etc.

AGREED! definitely! I have had on more than one occasion a battery terminal that was hooked up & STILL not pass voltage, double check them, but do keep in mind that when the fridge gets to temperature it may not run all the time,it may get to temp & compressor May shut off one would think you would have to make sure refrigerator is not cooling properly when it shuts down to think that it was starving for voltage