Best install tips for 2000W inverter on 40-foot monohull

[Cool Hand Luke]

Hi guys!

I just recently bought the Renogy 2000W Pure Sine Wave Inverter 12V DC to 120V AC Converter with Built-in 5V/2.1A USB Port, AC Hardwire Port, Remote Controller:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07H9SXV61

I'm not on the boat now and will need to take everything with me to install it. What tools/cables should I bring? Anything else I should buy?

I'd probably like to install it near my batteries (4 x Lifeline GPL-31XT 125AH). But, how do I get myself an outlet somewhere else? Just an extension cord?? Or some sort of a recessed receptacle?

Thank you in advance for any and all help!! Will post pics when I get to the boat.

[coopec43]

You'll need some (wood?) screws to mount the inverter in place.(A small drill will be needed start the screws) Don't forget the screwdriver.

You'll need heavy duty cable from battery to inverter. Here is a cable size chart.

https://www.stevensbattery.com/what-...ld-i-use-.html

You'll need a heavy duty isolator switch (300A?). Maybe something like this? (The guys here will say if they disapprove)


You need to mount the inverter where it can get plenty of airflow but where it won't get wet. I've mounted mine under the gangway steps where it will get wet so I plan to put a small hood (roof?) over it


I wondered how to take the power from the inverter to the microwave, bread-maker and galley bench (power point mounted high up so it doesn't get wet) I decided to use ordinary 10A electrical extension cords secured in place with electrical ties. When a domestic electrician had a look at what I had done he laughed and asked why I did that. He said it would have been much cheaper to use normal house electrical cable (as used by electricians). When I asked if what I had done was unsafe he deferred and said "No"


Maybe this would be a help?

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=J5-4W7kd7GY

[Allied39]

It all depends, do you want an amateur job that a surveyor will pick apart when you sell your boat...and maybe worse.....shock.....fire.....or do you want a proper job?.

First up any good install should be planned, not half assed. Use only tinned stranded wire, both AC and DC, rated for marine application. If anyone tells you to use household wire....disregard anything they have to say, they have no clue.

The case of the inverter should be grounded, with, from memory, one size smaller than the current carrying conductor, no smaller.

The inverter you showed had a AC hard wire connection. So hard wire it to outlets. A GFCI.

A DC supply disconnect should be installed. Support wiring.

Actually sounds like you should talk to someone on the scene....that knows what they are talking about and can look at your install and give you some clues.

Or just toss it in and keep your fingers crossed. All your choice.

[Pete7]

Luke, how many outlets do you really need to power with this? not the number of mains sockets your yacht already has for shore power.

Our similar installation has a single socket in the galley because that is the only place we really need the large 1600w inverter connected to. There is a small 350w inverter at the chart table for tv and laptops etc.

If you place it in a ventilated area away from easy reach, then the Renogy remote switch worth also buying. Our inverter is under the saloon bunks were its cool and dry. We have dusty bilges. Since its a pain to lift the cushions each time you want to turn the inverter on, the remote switch is a godsend.

For single socket installation, please add a nice big fuse and separate switch in the cable from battery to inverter, alternatively a thermal circuit breaker, but not one of the el cheapo $15 types for a load that could top 166 Ah. The Blue Sea 285 series should be around $60 and the weight one way of telling the difference. should be about 227 grams rather than 67g, you get what you pay for. Either way, have something you can isolate the inverter completely when not on board.


Pete

[coopec43]

Originally Posted by Allied39

It all depends, do you want an amateur job that a surveyor will pick apart when you sell your boat...and maybe worse.....shock.....fire.....or do you want a proper job?.

First up any good install should be planned, not half assed. Use only tinned stranded wire, both AC and DC, rated for marine application. If anyone tells you to use household wire....disregard anything they have to say, they have no clue.

The problem with these forums is that there are too many armchair experts who know Sweet FA.. Don't listen to them!

Is tinned wire the only legitimate wire to use on boats?

The matter of tinned wire being the only type accepted as “marine grade” is rather interesting. Ancor was perhaps the first vendor to the boating market to supply tinned copper wire and label it as “marine grade.” It was a brilliant marketing move because now many people think that tinned wire is the only legitimate wire to use on boats.

• In fact, many boaters are of the belief that the American Boat and Yacht Council mandates the use of tinned wire in its electrical standards. Well, this whole matter falls into the maritime legend category.
  
  
• First, the ABYC does not mandate the use of tinned wire its standards—never has. Second, the vast majority of production boat builders still use un-tinned wire in their electrical systems.

https://www.practical-sailor.com/sys...re-myth-busted


(But Allied39 won't believe anything written in the Practical Sailor will he? You can bet Allied39 has never built a boat!)

[Madehn]

so all of this
"First up any good install should be planned, not half assed. Use only tinned stranded wire, both AC and DC, rated for marine application. If anyone tells you to use household wire....disregard anything they have to say, they have no clue. AGREED

The case of the inverter should be grounded, with, from memory, one size smaller than the current carrying conductor, no smaller. CORRECT

The inverter you showed had a AC hard wire connection. So hard wire it to outlets. A GFCI.

A DC supply disconnect should be installed. Support wiring."

PLUS-- you will need lugs the appropriate size to fit both battery side and inverter side--you can crimp them with a "hammer crimper" if you dont want to buy an expensive tool- get good quality heat shrink big enough to not only go over the wire but over the lip on the lugs-- should have a class T fuse and holder of appropriate size in the line from the positive of the battery ( think around 250-300 amps) more lugs of the appropriate size to fit on either side of the class T fuse holder. need a battery disconnect switch- (blue seas battery switch will work- wire it in on the positive side as well. personally i would wire the outputs from the inverter to a rotary switch that allowed you to choose between 1 side for shore power and the other side for inverter power and feed that switch into your main electrical panel ( you would need to take your existing shore power wires off the electrical panel and route them to the rotary switch- the rotary switch also gets connected to your panel-- basically that rotary switch allows you to choose what power source is used by all of the outlets on the boat (shore or inverter) and keeps you from accidently having both on at the same time-- more complicated inverters have an automatic switch that senses 110 volt power from other sources and takes the inverter offline ( that prevents the light and sparkle show with magic smoke) - these rotary switches are not cheap but once you do that then you can use any of the outlets on the boat at any time. it is a bit more complicated than one would think to have a first class installation but is worth it if you are doing signifigant cruising-- if not then just use some heavy duty extension cords from your inverter. Tip: keep the wires to the inverter as short as possible- they will be big and expensive- also when figuring the guage of the wire needed be sure that you add the lengths of both the positive wire and the negative wire together to get the total length. Donot use cheap switches - you need the proper rated ones for a DC load- they are different from AC switches for a reason. i mounted each of my inverter / chargers in the back of lockers where they will be dry and have plenty of ventilation- put up "shields" around then that were perforated to keep anything from getting shoved up against them. If you can get a remote panel for the inverter and you plan a permanent install, they are very worthwhile and are easy to wire in. I did this with two 3000 watt inverter chargers, shore powere, and a generator on by boat. it takes time but will be worth it best of luck

[coopec43]

Originally Posted by Madehn

so all of this
"First up any good install should be planned, not half assed. Use only tinned stranded wire, both AC and DC, rated for marine application. If anyone tells you to use household wire....disregard anything they have to say, they have no clue. AGREED

Another boatie conned by clever marketers!

Why don't we both tell the production yacht builders they should be using tinned wire? I tell you what, I'll leave you to do the talking (I'll wait outside for you)

[team karst]

Keep the dc cable run at least 3 ft away from a fluxgate compass, such as for the autopilot. I learned that one as the wife turned on the microwave and the boat headed for a piling. [emoji43]

[coopec43]

I suspect Allied39 is busy reading and wondering how he got it so wrong!


(No apology necessary Allied39)


Tinned Wire Myth Busted

https://www.practical-sailor.com/sys...re-myth-busted

[davil]

Originally Posted by Cool Hand Luke

Hi guys!

I just recently bought the Renogy 2000W Pure Sine Wave Inverter 12V DC to 120V AC Converter with Built-in 5V/2.1A USB Port, AC Hardwire Port, Remote Controller:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07H9SXV61

I'm not on the boat now and will need to take everything with me to install it. What tools/cables should I bring? Anything else I should buy?

I'd probably like to install it near my batteries (4 x Lifeline GPL-31XT 125AH). But, how do I get myself an outlet somewhere else? Just an extension cord?? Or some sort of a recessed receptacle?

Thank you in advance for any and all help!! Will post pics when I get to the boat.

=================================

Very much like Pete7 same basic install

You indicated will install close to the batteries bank, your max distance is 3 Ft.!!
that is the wire gauge #4 provided, IF you go any further then will need to calculate appropriate gauge and that could drive you into huge cables sizes # 2 or bigger, something to keep in mind

I decided to place the inverter in the cockpit locker within the 3 ft from the batteries, using the supplied cables and properly fused as per Pete7 post.
Found a spot is dry and away from any water intrusion.

From the inverter I run a single regular (about 4 ft) long size 14 extension cable, did not like so striped the end and hard-wire to a wall GFCI.outlet.

Only need one outlet, either use the microwave or the induction stove, or the slow cooker, one at the time.

You have all supplied with the inverter.

Extra supplies?

Fuse to connect the positive cable to the battery stud.

will need a length of extension cable from the hardware store # 14 or 12, may be 4 feet? to run from the inverter to the plug in area.
You can get regular "marine" 3 wires cables by the foot in West Marine.

Regular wall outlet (GFCI) either in an external box or make a cut on the board to install the outlet receded, hardware store fine.I made a cut and have it receded.

Nothing extraordinary here, if the inverter was accessible you will not need any extension, just plug the appliance, not big deal.

The only extra I installed was an off/on switch between the battery fuse to the inverter, like to switch off when not in use.

If you go that way will need to cut the supplied positive 3 ft cable and crimp two extra terminals.

Your hardware store may do it for you, WestMarine used to do it, If not,

Amazon has very nice and affordable hydraulic crimpers selection for about $50. nice tool to have.

Make sure to use copper (no brass) terminals and properly sealed with the heat tubes.

As Pete7 also have a smaller 300watts in the cabin that run all my electronic gizmos (cell phones,Garmin Explorer,etc)

Perfectly within your DIY 101 working with electric power, all cables routed to corresponding studs, batteries switched to off while working, pay attention to polarity.

PS
omitted the ongoing discussion tinned vs untinned

Renogy is already supplying the cables, no discussion there.

The 3 or 4 ft extension cable, just buy it in West Marine, is white, looks nice, and will cost you a "marine price" but is a short run.

And very important, this is a freestanding power supply TOTALLY ISOLATED from any AC wiring!!!!

good luck

[jordanbigel]

Originally Posted by coopec43

I suspect Allied39 is busy reading and wondering how he got it so wrong!


(No apology necessary Allied39)


Tinned Wire Myth Busted

https://www.practical-sailor.com/sys...re-myth-busted

Says it right there in the Practical Sailor article you posted.

Is tinned wire better? Well, it is more corrosion resistant, but the truth is, the un-tinned wire has been used for years and provides a more-than-adequate service life in most cases.


Tinned wire is better. More corrosion resistant. Seems like you are on a crusade against tinned wire. Why? I have no clue, but I will continue to use tinned wire whenever possible.

[coopec43]

Originally Posted by davil

=================================

Very much like Pete7 same basic install

I decided to place the inverter in the cockpit locker within the 3 ft from the batteries, using the supplied cables and properly fused as per Pete7 post.
Found a spot is dry and away from any water intrusion.

From the inverter I run a single regular (about 4 ft) long size 14 extension cable, did not like so striped the end and hard-wire to a wall GFCI.outlet.

Only need one outlet, either use the microwave or the induction stove, or the slow cooker, one at the time.

Excellent advice form someone who's "been there, done that". What a refreshing change from our patronizing armchair experts! Geez!

The only point I query "I decided to place the inverter in the cockpit locker" I don't know the size of your locker but I would worry there would not be enough ventilation to keep the inverter cool?

[jordanbigel]

Originally Posted by jordanbigel

Says it right there in the Practical Sailor article you posted.

Is tinned wire better? Well, it is more corrosion resistant, but the truth is, the un-tinned wire has been used for years and provides a more-than-adequate service life in most cases.


Tinned wire is better. More corrosion resistant. Seems like you are on a crusade against tinned wire. Why? I have no clue, but I will continue to use tinned wire whenever possible.

And then there is Mainsail who wrote this:

Untinned Wire
Here’s a prime example of where tinned marine wire may have bought this owner a bit more time. A new run of 10/3 triplex tinned marine wire was in order. The black oxidation on this wire can also lead to or create high resistance. When in doubt, it’s best to also replace the feed wire from the new AC inlet to the AC panel.


From:
https://marinehowto.com/shore-power-...tplug-vs-1938/

[coopec43]

Originally Posted by jordanbigel

And then there is Mainsail who wrote this:

Untinned Wire
Here’s a prime example of where tinned marine wire may have bought this owner a bit more time. A new run of 10/3 triplex tinned marine wire was in order. The black oxidation on this wire can also lead to or create high resistance. When in doubt, it’s best to also replace the feed wire from the new AC inlet to the AC panel.


From:
https://marinehowto.com/shore-power-...tplug-vs-1938/

Of course your terminals would have to be protected with heat shrink. Have you ever found corrosion in an un-tinned extension cord?

Why not use these? Is the un-tinned cable going to corrode?

[coopec43]

Originally Posted by Pete7

Luke, how many outlets do you really need to power with this? not the number of mains sockets your yacht already has for shore power.

Our similar installation has a single socket in the galley because that is the only place we really need the large 1600w inverter connected to. There is a small 350w inverter at the chart table for tv and laptops etc.

If you place it in a ventilated area away from easy reach, then the Renogy remote switch worth also buying. Our inverter is under the saloon bunks were its cool and dry. We have dusty bilges. Since its a pain to lift the cushions each time you want to turn the inverter on, the remote switch is a godsend.

For single socket installation, please add a nice big fuse and separate switch in the cable from battery to inverter, alternatively a thermal circuit breaker, but not one of the el cheapo $15 types for a load that could top 166 Ah. The Blue Sea 285 series should be around $60 and the weight one way of telling the difference. should be about 227 grams rather than 67g, you get what you pay for. Either way, have something you can isolate the inverter completely when not on board.


Pete

Pete

I've got three outlets

• Microwave
• Bread maker
• Induction hob

You'd have no problem with that surely?