Best new flex panels on the market?

[BigBeakie]

For both air flow underneath the flex panels AND heatsink, we'll be using aluminium roofing sheets. There are profiles that have flat rectangular "tops" that give good contact with the flex panels. Really increases efficiency!


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[newhaul]

Originally Posted by BigBeakie

For both air flow underneath the flex panels AND heatsink, we'll be using aluminium roofing sheets. There are profiles that have flat rectangular "tops" that give good contact with the flex panels. Really increases efficiency!


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Pictures please . A couple of them showing how the configuration is mounted to take advantage of the heat dissipation properties of the aluminum.
Also something showing the increase in efficiency when you add the aluminum to the flex panels.

[BigBeakie]

Mr. Google is your friend to find them in your area. Channels run fore-aft for air flow.


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[Exile]

Originally Posted by BigBeakie

For both air flow underneath the flex panels AND heatsink, we'll be using aluminium roofing sheets. There are profiles that have flat rectangular "tops" that give good contact with the flex panels. Really increases efficiency!


Sent from my iPad using Cruisers Sailing Forum

But aren't you now creating a panel closer to a fixed but at perhaps a higher price? Maybe mounting to the boat is easier?

[thinwater]

I've had both rigid and flex panels for years. I've written reviews and interviewed many installers. From what I have learned...

• The cells are not that different from rigid cells. That means that although they can flex once to a limited radius (some on the installation in this thread exceed that limit). Panels installed in such a way that they can move repeatedly will look great at first... and fail within a few years. The cause is micro cracks in the cells. They are NOT flexible. Users tend to blame this failure mode, which they were warned about in the instructions but ignored because others ignored it, as a manufacturing problem.
• Polishing them has caused failures. Same problem--repeated flexing. Not worth the trivial gain.
• Walking on the... same problem unless very well built AND very well bedded (full bonding).

These are the main reasons for inconsistent performance--inconsistent installation. Basically, they are rigid panel cells in many cases, without the glass and frame to protect them. Even cheap panels have worked well for me, because I have mounted them to rigid surfaces with acceptable curvature, and then stayed off them.


If I were mounting to a dodger, it would either have to be drum tight (avoid the bows) or I would use a supplemental backing, as some have shown and discussed. Otherwise, the life will be reduced. Your funeral.

[newhaul]

Originally Posted by Exile

But aren't you now creating a panel closer to a fixed but at perhaps a higher price? Maybe mounting to the boat is easier?

That question is the exact reason I requested the pictures of installation and associated output data sets.

[john61ct]

A low profile conforming to a curved but fixed mounting surface is a solid advantage.

And light weight.

[newhaul]

Originally Posted by john61ct

A low profile conforming to a curved but fixed mounting surface is a solid advantage.

And light weight.

Don't know if it would be enough weight savings to offset the cost difference with similar sized rigid panels at almost double their price.

[john61ct]

For you.

If you have a curved mount surface and don't want a boxy rack sticking out, the aesthetics alone may be worth paying a lot more.

[BigBeakie]

Originally Posted by newhaul

That question is the exact reason I requested the pictures of installation and associated output data sets.

I do not have my installation done yet, I'm adapting it from a cruiser who used this corrugated aluminium sheeting a couple of years ago, and I did not get pictures. He claimed his panels were 20 to 25% more efficient than before he installed the sheeting and made a big difference to his energy budget. There is plenty of data around on panel output vs temperature.

Although you can walk on the sheeting (it's meant for roofing), you shouldn't. As has been pointed out, your flex panels will crack the cells as they flex, so it is not meant to walk on. Mine will be on the solid bimini over the cockpit, with a walkway space left along both sides of the boom.

[newhaul]

Originally Posted by BigBeakie

I do not have my installation done yet, I'm adapting it from a cruiser who used this corrugated aluminium sheeting a couple of years ago, and I did not get pictures. He claimed his panels were 20 to 25% more efficient than before he installed the sheeting and made a big difference to his energy budget. There is plenty of data around on panel output vs temperature.

Although you can walk on the sheeting (it's meant for roofing), you shouldn't. As has been pointed out, your flex panels will crack the cells as they flex, so it is not meant to walk on. Mine will be on the solid bimini over the cockpit, with a walkway space left along both sides of the boom.

Ok I look forward to your posts on this when you get the install done on your boat.
Sounds promising if the efficiency is there.

[thinwater]

You may be better off with a wide walk space under the boom and panels along the edges. Under the boom is shade, and generally the boom is not quite centered with reefing, and does not need to be when lowering or covering/uncovering.

At least that has been my hard top experience.

[contrail]

Originally Posted by OceanPlanet

The heat is more of an output issue (less when hot), haven't any evidence that it affects longevity. But certainly true that deck installations won't cool as well as when on canvas.

On a previous boat, about fifteen years ago, I had UniSolar flexible panels. I don't know that the heat affected the panels, any, but it cracked the gelcoat, badly. Eventually, had to put a clear acrylic piece of plastic, sized to match the panels, under each one, to prevent a recurrence.

No idea if there is a similar issue with modern panels, and I was in a hot climate.