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Old 27-07-2020, 22:08   #16
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Re: Blue Sea 120 amp ACR question.

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Originally Posted by BlackHeron View Post
I like that ANL fuse bank. Is that a BSS product? Looks pretty slick.
BSS? If that's a Bussmann LMG Fuse Holder for AMG/MEGA fuses. Then yes.
Here is a link to where I got it.
https://www.swe-check.com.au/product...amg-mega-fuses
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Old 28-07-2020, 06:45   #17
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Re: Blue Sea 120 amp ACR question.

BSS = Blue Seas Systems
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Old 28-07-2020, 06:52   #18
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Re: Blue Sea 120 amp ACR question.

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I have fuses. ANL. Mega & the terminal fuses.
Attachment 220050

It looks like you have the Blue Sea Dual Circuit Plus Switch (DCP). If so, wiring the SI feature will prevent electronics drop out when starting the motor and also minimize the potential for voltage transients on the house bus.

SI does not work with a 1/2/B switch, because house and starting loads are shared by the bank you set it to. SI does work really well when you have isolated house and start banks as the DCP switch provides for.

Just be aware that the DCP switch's only alternative when a bank fails is to parallel a perfectly good bank to one that may have an internal short or failure. We only install the DCP's with additional ON/OFF switches to allow for 100% isolation of a failed bank.
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Old 28-07-2020, 15:00   #19
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Re: Blue Sea 120 amp ACR question.

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Just be aware that the DCP switch's only alternative when a bank fails is to parallel a perfectly good bank to one that may have an internal short or failure. We only install the DCP's with additional ON/OFF switches to allow for 100% isolation of a failed bank.
Easily fixed by removing a wire or two from the posts of the offending bad battey bank.

This isn't rocket science.
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Old 28-07-2020, 18:27   #20
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Re: Blue Sea 120 amp ACR question.

Already planning isolation switchers.
I am now thinking about building a new control panel with built in bus bar and breakers. Any thoughts or links?
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Old 29-07-2020, 11:46   #21
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Re: Blue Sea 120 amp ACR question.

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Easily fixed by removing a wire or two from the posts of the offending bad battey bank.

This isn't rocket science.

If you install one yourself then yes, that is a perfectly good solution.

When you are paid to do a professional level installation, it is a different situation. We will not install a DCP switch without additional bank isolation for safety reasons as we believe the ability to isolate a failed bank, not just flip to parallel/combine, is critical.

Our customers don't pay us so they'd need to find a wrench in an emergency, and we won't force them into that, or paralleling a potentially failed bank, with a good one.

We like the DCP switch, but the Blue Sea Systems marketing makes it seem like the switch is the be-all, end-all and it is not, if it lacks the ability to 100% isolate a failed bank.

We've had customers of other yards, who paid to have a DCP installed, wind up dead in the water due to a failed bank and turning the DCP to "combine".
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Old 29-07-2020, 12:07   #22
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Re: Blue Sea 120 amp ACR question.

If a boat owner can't figure out simple stuff like this then they are screwed eventually anyhow.

If they pay you to build-in all this needless complexity and all these extra switches they dont understand and need a flow chart to operate what good are they? And even if they can be walked through it when a battery bank fails they will soon hit upon another issue that hasn't been idiot-proofed and over-complicated to kingdom come which WILL render them dead in the water anyhow.

Some people maybe should find another hobby or lifestyle if this one is too technical for them Cruising is not for faint of heart equipment "operators" who want to simply flip switches and never get their hands dirty turning a wrench. If they are not technician-owner-operators they are eventually going to find themselves in a position where they can't fix a problem, or even understand which switch they need to flip to bypass the issue.
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Old 29-07-2020, 12:40   #23
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Re: Blue Sea 120 amp ACR question.

@BlackHeron #22
Pretty judgmental and did not really advance or improve the thread.
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Old 29-07-2020, 13:16   #24
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Re: Blue Sea 120 amp ACR question.

Vendors want to vend. The more they sell or install the more money they can charge the custimer, and ultimately the more money they can bank.

Take everything a professional installer is telling a DIYer about the scope of any projects they are giving advice on with a grain of salt.

Judgemental? Or just a fact of life in the marine industry. Adding to the conversation? I believe THAT is a judgement call...
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Old 29-07-2020, 13:23   #25
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Re: Blue Sea 120 amp ACR question.

@BlackHeron #24
I am sorry you have such a sour view of the marine industry.

There are many, many professionals out there who work their butts off to provide service and education to the recreational boating public. Some of these boat owners are not as smart as you apparently are. We are there to help them.
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Old 29-07-2020, 13:30   #26
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Re: Blue Sea 120 amp ACR question.

And helping them is advising DIYers purchase and build more complex and expensive systems that will take up more precious boat space, weigh more, and add more points of failure ultimately leading to shorter service periods between major maintenance sessions?

Got it.
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Old 29-07-2020, 13:45   #27
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Re: Blue Sea 120 amp ACR question.

@BlackHeron
Have a nice day.
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Old 29-07-2020, 14:26   #28
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Re: Blue Sea 120 amp ACR question.

I appreciate all the advice..
I am installing isolation switches.
But currently disconnecting the batteries when carrying out the work.
I have a large copacitor next to my control panel. Does anyone have any idea what it would be for?

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Old 30-07-2020, 13:45   #29
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Re: Blue Sea 120 amp ACR question.

You’d have to trace the wires to see what the capacitor is connected to, but usually people put these in an attempt to quiet RF noise, or stabilize voltage to some downstream device. There’s usually a cheaper, smaller and more effective way than a huge capacitor.
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