Convert from 240 VAC to 120 VAC

[botanybay]

Originally Posted by Dawntreader2

Following along, I am purchasing a 2014 Euro Cat with 220 - the answer seems to be the Victron - and I will just buy 220V appliances in the US for the holy grail blender. One Poster said I could run everything except the Microwave and Washer/Dryer - this will not go over well with the Admiral - is this true.
I will get a Marine Electrician to put in the Victron - but I want to be informed and have my BS detector up to snuff when the time comes to bring it back to the US

The system I installed from Victron several years ago has been working extremely well and appears to be bulletproof. I am very happy with the Victron gear.

As to the specific question, Yes, microwaves and washer/dryers are frequency sensitive even if they get the right voltage. Most everything else on my vessel was originally selected to be 50/60 capable.

In my case with respect to these appliances I have a 8kva Victron Quattro which is programmed for 230v/50hz, when I need to use either of these appliances I throw a switch which forces the 230v inverter to drop shore power (i.e. the 208v/60hz on my pier) and start making 230v/50hz power. At the same time a 24v 100A charger takes over the shore power connection and provides about 3kva of power to the batteries.

Once I am done with either the microwave or the washer/dryer I switch back to the direct connection.

The upshot of this is that the 230v circuit shifts between 230v/50hz and 208v/60hz or 240v/60hz depending on the dock.

In addition I have a dedicated 1200w Victron inverter which carries the moderate 110v loads (US Latte machine, heat gun on low, power tools).

I have considered moving the entire boat to split phase 240v (US style) but the oddities of dealing with some docks being 208v (which is two phases of a three phase connection and a neutral which are 120 degrees out of phase) and some being 240v (which is really a single phase with a center tap but can be thought of a two phases 180 degrees out of phase with a neutral).

Whatever you do, don't be tempted to hook one US phase to European hot and one US phase to European neutral to get 240v. Now the neutral buss is at 120v! If all of the breakers on the boat (including branch circuits) are not double pole if you turn off a breaker and stick your hand into the equipment the neutral will be live at 110v and potentially the only breaker in the circuit is the double pole breaker at the ships inlet point! Scary!!! Seen it too many times to count!!!

My system looks like:

Shore power (any flavor of 230v/50hz, 120v/60hz, 208v/60hz, 240v/60hz)

Victron automatic input ranging isolation transformer outputting either input voltage if over 190v or doubling the input voltage if below 140v (if memory serves). Thus the boat is always in the 208 to 240v range.

Neutral output of isolation transformer is bonded to ships ground.

Switch between EITHER Victron Quattro 8kva Inverter/Charger or SkyllaI 100A @ 24v charger

Victron Quattro Inverter Charger

Main panel with ELCI

In addition the generator runs at 1500rpm providing 230v/50hz power. If the generator comes on, the Quattro automatically disconnects from shore power, slews voltage, frequency, and phase to match generator, then syncs up and starts pulling power.

One other nice side effect is that the shore power connection pulls 16A if on a 200+ Volt dock or 32A max on a 120v dock. The inverter makes up the difference from the batteries during surges. This keeps the peak loads off the shore power connection avoiding burnt connections, brownouts, etc.

Do be aware that an inverter setup for 240v which is 180 degrees out of phase with a neutral will have wild problems with a source which is 208v and is 120 degrees out of phase.

If you really want to go down that path, two Victron 120v inverters can be programmed to either form but if on a different style dock it will require reprogramming.

The isolation transformer route avoids all of that complexity, provides for a much simpler system, and is much safer. The toroidal transformer from Victron works well and is not horribly heavy.

[botanybay]

Originally Posted by mr336

I bought a french 220 volt boat. It has a 220 v inverter. I installed a Victron 110 volt inverter and switched out some outlets around the boat so now I have both which for me is quite handy. Twas pretty easy.

Definitely a great way to go!

My microwave failed (230v/50hz) when I pulled it there are both plugs back there so I just buy a US one and hook it up. If in 50hz land and it dies again do the same the other direction.

[Tdh001]

Hi, I find myself in the same boat (no pun intended). I bought a German sailboat that uses 220v and sailed her over to the US.
Now I want to connect to shore power to charge batteries & use the fridge, etc. but of course the European connectors (three prong) don’t fit US outlets dockside.
So i have a couple of questions:
1. What will happen immediately if I just attach an adapter (if there is one) to the end of my shore cable?
2. Regardless of everything else, the cable goes through a galvanic isolator and a circuit breaker
3. My battery charger will accept 110v so no need to make things too complicated. What equipment (receptacle, connector, fuses, etc) do I need to convert the system I have to 110?
Oh, on the boat side there’s a sticker that says 220v 16A so I must assume the breaker will trip at anything significantly higher?
I don’t have anything frequency sensitive (50 vs 60Hz) so i prefer not to add any electronics to clean, regulate voltage up or down.
I’d rather do this myself but if need be there are plenty of marine electricians around here who’ll be happy to take my money)
Any help is appreciated.

[rgleason]

There is another thread about this. Search for it.
At a minimum you will need:
Second shore power cable and connections 120vac/30a 60hz or 240/120vav 50a.
A new ELCI circuit breaker..
A new 2way switch which disconnects EU power and connects US power
With the supply going to your global source charger to supply all power to the ship.

You need to be aware that all your shore type appliances and lights may not work with 120/240vac60hz current. So best to power through a charger/ inverter that is set up for it. It is inefficient.

This is not a complete answer, but the best one I could put together emailing blueseas and sterling who was no help at all.

See http://www.cruisersforum.com/forums/...d.php?t=205801

Would love a more complete explanation and answet.

The schematic in this post is what I worked out so far for the EU US Alternating current side.
http://www.cruisersforum.com/forums/....php?p=2697020

[Excalibur5]

Keep in mind you may need to replace wiring as well. Higher voltage does not require the wiring to be as large of a diameter.

For 120v 20 amp circuits the standard wire size is 10awg. 120v 15 amp is 12awg.

[rgleason]

DO Not do That! You may ruin your EU equipment. 50hz and 60hz are different. Check each piece of equipment first.

[john61ct]

Just charge your battery bank and continue to use your inverters

[sailcrazy]

Lots of nay-sayers, but let me tell you what we are doing and have done for the past several years. I installed a Marinco 50amp shore power inlet in our transom, and a Victron Auto-sensing Isolation Transformer on the line from that inlet to the Main AC C/B and distribution panel. As I've written before, our boat was built for Asia and Asia/EU power (230v, 3Wire, 50Hz power). And although the motors run about 10% faster and the M/W will not last as long, everything we've had no issues with plugging into either 50Hz or 60Hz power.
I also made 3 "pigtails", 2 for the shorepower inlet and 1 for the powerpole. Both shorepower inlet cords have the 50 amp plug on the 1 end(to plug into the boat), and a 30amp 110v plug on one and a 16amp 230v plug on the other. We carry both a Marinco 30amp 50' power cord and a 16amp 230v 50' cord. The powerpole pigtail has a 50amp 110v plug on 1 end and a 30amp 110v plug on the other. These pigtails and powercords allow us to plug into either a 30amp 110v powerpole(US), or a 50amp 110v powerpole(US), or a 16amp 230v (3 wire!!!) powerpole(non-US). Then run that power to the boat, plug into the boat, and...via the Auto-sensing transformer...the boat ALWAYS sees 230v power, just as she was built for. Sounds complicated, bit it really isn't once you sketch it out...and it works every time, no matter what powerpole you run into. We also have a 6-pin ON-OFF-On switch inside the boat, to switch between shore power and internal genset power-also 230v 50Hz power. Hope this helps...it's worked perfectly for us for several years, through Asia, the Medd, and the Caribb.

[Tdh001]

Originally Posted by sailcrazy

Lots of nay-sayers, but let me tell you what we are doing and have done for the past several years. I installed a Marinco 50amp shore power inlet in our transom, and a Victron Auto-sensing Isolation Transformer on the line from that inlet to the Main AC C/B and distribution panel. As I've written before, our boat was built for Asia and Asia/EU power (230v, 3Wire, 50Hz power). And although the motors run about 10% faster and the M/W will not last as long, everything we've had no issues with plugging into either 50Hz or 60Hz power.
I also made 3 "pigtails", 2 for the shorepower inlet and 1 for the powerpole. Both shorepower inlet cords have the 50 amp plug on the 1 end(to plug into the boat), and a 30amp 110v plug on one and a 16amp 230v plug on the other. We carry both a Marinco 30amp 50' power cord and a 16amp 230v 50' cord. The powerpole pigtail has a 50amp 110v plug on 1 end and a 30amp 110v plug on the other. These pigtails and powercords allow us to plug into either a 30amp 110v powerpole(US), or a 50amp 110v powerpole(US), or a 16amp 230v (3 wire!!!) powerpole(non-US). Then run that power to the boat, plug into the boat, and...via the Auto-sensing transformer...the boat ALWAYS sees 230v power, just as she was built for. Sounds complicated, bit it really isn't once you sketch it out...and it works every time, no matter what powerpole you run into. We also have a 6-pin ON-OFF-On switch inside the boat, to switch between shore power and internal genset power-also 230v 50Hz power. Hope this helps...it's worked perfectly for us for several years, through Asia, the Medd, and the Caribb.

Thanks for the info. I checked out the isolation transformer. That’s a maybe due to its cost and my desire to keep it simple.
I also saw marineco has an in-line 30a to 15a Adapter that can just be attached to either end of the shore cable. I would use that only if the internal wiring is not able to handle the addtl amps.
What I’m thinking about doing now is get a US shore cable, a boatside connector and wire it to my circuit breaker (after making sure it too can handle a doubling of amps)
I don’t think I need a marine electrician for that... I hope)