Converting Delco 28Si to external regulation

[evm1024]

Here is a CF thread that looked into alternator temps.

https://www.cruisersforum.com/forums...ge-228245.html

The paper referenced in page 2 show internal temps over 105 C.

[offpist]

I am aslo doing an dual 28SI installation my 4JH4-AE.

Waiting for my 50" belt to arrive, as 48" is to short for starboard side.

Using two Mastervolt Alpha Pro II regulators.

Had to have the J10 pulleys for the alternators cutom made.

[rgleason]

It has become clear that I need to heat up the regulator connection and solder on the Regulator, in order to remove it.

[evm1024]

Originally Posted by rgleason

It has become clear that I need to heat up the regulator connection and solder on the Regulator, in order to remove it.

Yes, that is correct. Should be an easy "slip" fit. Here is the reg out of mine.

[rgleason]

What AWG should I get for the wire (SF2/SEW-2 200 degreeC with silicone insulation and woven fiberglass cover)?

One Stop Buy wire SF2/SEW-2 or where would I get this locall, most likely?

Also will a small butane torch be adequate to melt the High Temp 2% Silver Solder?

Also right now I am having trouble heating up the one connection for the regulator to remove it. What type of soldering iron is best for this?


EVM1024 Thanks for the quick reply!

[offpist]

We used 2.5mm2 x 3 cable with silicone isolation. Two for the Field and the third one for Tach.

Sure, you can just ground one field wire but i play arround with different regulators.

I am actally charging at 400A combined now.

[evm1024]

Originally Posted by rgleason

What AWG should I get for the wire (SF2/SEW-2 200 degreeC with silicone insulation and woven fiberglass cover)?

One Stop Buy wire SF2/SEW-2 or where would I get this locall, most likely?

Also will a small butane torch be adequate to melt the High Temp 2% Silver Solder?

Also right now I am having trouble heating up the one connection for the regulator to remove it. What type of soldering iron is best for this?


EVM1024 Thanks for the quick reply!

Pretty much any soldering iron should be able to reach 800 F or so. Silver solder is ok with that. I found the wire I used at the local "Surplus Gizmos" electronic recycling place. You might have something like that in your area.

I used a solder sucker to remove most of the solder before trying to remove the connection. You will get it n time.

Pretty much any flexible wire (as others have posted) with a high temp cover would work. Hight temp, flexible and abrasion resistant was what I was looking for. And got lucky that the wire was at Surplus Gizimos. Heck, you might even be able to get them to sell and send you some if you contact them. https://www.surplusgizmos.com/

Best!

[Simi 60]

What I want to know is should a 27si need an external regulator
Delco claim their big frame alts are continuos rated yet our brand new 65amp @ 24v is dead after 4 months.

Was working as advertised on shorter runs but died on a 10 hour day.

Was wired up to a victron VSR doing starts and then house bank

[rgleason]

I ordered:

• G10 / FR4 Flame Resistant board 12"x12"x1/4" pickup from Defender and will use the extra for backing plates.
• Bryne High Temp Wire 18 gauge (1.05mm) from Amazon coming Monday. I can double it up if necessary.
• At Ace Hardware I got the two bolt standoff setups using 1/4"-20 x 1.5" Carriage bolts, 1/4 washer, 1/4" x 1" coupler nuts, 1/4 lock washer and nut.
• I found High temp Silver solder, at Jan Electronics, that I do not use flux with, as I understand it.
• Also purchased a 60 watt solder iron that goes to 800 degrees, as my 40 watt rated butane torch was perhaps a little small.
• Earlier, I got all my bolts and bushings for mounting the alternator at NAPA and Ace Hardware. I found that Ace had a better selection of bushings. While fitting the alternator took a grinder wheel and set it up outside the boat on the ground, and used it extensively to grind down the bolts and bushings to the right lengths.

The question I have now is what should I use for connecting the to

1. 1/4" x 1" standoff for Tack (1/4" ring connector) 18ga SF2 high temp wire to regulator connection that was removed, behind the B+ terminal.
2. 1/4" x 1" standoff for Field (1/4" ring connector) to the other side of the regulator where the bolt was removed, using (1/4" ring connector with the nylon separator as you show).

I think you used "high temp" connectors here, can you advise where I might find them locally and any particulars? I think these connectors need to be heavier than the Anchor ones you would find at West Marine or Defenders. Is that so?


All the digikey ones are not insulated. What should I insulate the ring connectors with?

[Emmalina]

Did this a couple of years ago using a Balmar ex reg Works great
Think the alt cost about 250usd shipped to Thailand

[Emmalina]

Originally Posted by offpist

I am aslo doing an dual 28SI installation my 4JH4-AE.

Waiting for my 50" belt to arrive, as 48" is to short for starboard side.

Using two Mastervolt Alpha Pro II regulators.

Had to have the J10 pulleys for the alternators cutom made.

Hope you have an extractor fan in there !

[evm1024]

Originally Posted by rgleason

I ordered:

• G10 / FR4 Flame Resistant board 12"x12"x1/4" pickup from Defender and will use the extra for backing plates.
• Bryne High Temp Wire 18 gauge (1.05mm) from Amazon coming Monday. I can double it up if necessary.
• At Ace Hardware I got the two bolt standoff setups using 1/4"-20 x 1.5" Carriage bolts, 1/4 washer, 1/4" x 1" coupler nuts, 1/4 lock washer and nut.
• I found High temp Silver solder, at Jan Electronics, that I do not use flux with, as I understand it.
• Also purchased a 60 watt solder iron that goes to 800 degrees, as my 40 watt rated butane torch was perhaps a little small.
• Earlier, I got all my bolts and bushings for mounting the alternator at NAPA and Ace Hardware. I found that Ace had a better selection of bushings. While fitting the alternator took a grinder wheel and set it up outside the boat on the ground, and used it extensively to grind down the bolts and bushings to the right lengths.

The question I have now is what should I use for connecting the to

1. 1/4" x 1" standoff for Tack (1/4" ring connector) 18ga SF2 high temp wire to regulator connection that was removed, behind the B+ terminal.
2. 1/4" x 1" standoff for Field (1/4" ring connector) to the other side of the regulator where the bolt was removed, using (1/4" ring connector with the nylon separator as you show).

I think you used "high temp" connectors here, can you advise where I might find them locally and any particulars? I think these connectors need to be heavier than the Anchor ones you would find at West Marine or Defenders. Is that so?


All the digikey ones are not insulated. What should I insulate the ring connectors with?

I used standard Ancor ring connectors as I recall. I did use 14 gauge wire. The stator pulse for the tach has almost no current so 18 gauge wire is fine. The field current can be 6 to 10 amps or so and 18 gauge is a bit light. Might double up that wire.

Given the vibration I was worried about getting a good crimp on the connecters.

I did mine 3 years ago and have had no problems. (yet)

[offpist]

When installing the 28SI om motor meant for Saddle Mount (Like Yanmar) you will need to add an spacer.

I fund these to work well.
Hole Size: M10, Length: 20mm
https://www.ebay.com/itm/193391036716

Even larger outer diameter would be preferred, but i could not find any.

[rgleason]

I hope this annotated photo of Ethan's [evm1024] is right.

[rgleason]

When heating the stator connection to remove the internal regulator it helps to take a small flathead screwdriver and insert it between the wire and the regulator connection to help separate the part. Work it as you heat up the connection.

Afterwards remove the B+terminal threaded coupling to disconnect that side of the regulator connections. Then things get easier. See photo.

I realize now that if this connection gets too close to the front of the 3YM30 manifold, I can always shorten it by grinding the standoff coupling and thread and modifying the cover. So we have more leeway on that issue. (But wrap up and tape all openings and keep all hacksaw and grinding particles out of the alternator if you are doing this.)