Crimping Kit

[ayates]

Mostly with help from this article, https://marinehowto.com/marine-wire-termination/, I have accumulated a fair number of crimp tools and associate items. In addition to the above comprehensive article, I did a fair amount of additional research, and here is what I ended up with.

Cable Cutters
Note that the Ancor cutter was purchased in 2003, and is no longer available.
Battery Cable: FTZ-94015
Regular Cable: Ancor 702005

Insulation Stripper
The battery cable stripper works like a charm; highly recommended. I tried the regular gauge stripper, but while it worked well, I was so used to regular strippers that I went back to those.

Battery Cable: FTZ-94040
Regular Cable: Ideal Stripmaster

Battery Cables
I standardised on power lugs, in 2/0, 2 and 6 AWG sizes. I typically source these from Bay Marine Supply. I use heavy wall adhesive lined heat-shrink tubing to insulate/seal all connectors (sourced from sailboatowners.com).
Crimper: FTZ-94284

Regular Connectors
I mostly use non-heat-shrink Ancor double-crimp connectors, with heat-shrink versions generally restricted to the battery compartment and wet locations like the bilge. My original double-crimp crimper from Ancor, purchased in 2003, is no longer available. It is very nice, but it requires a lot of hand pressure for 10 AWG terminals; so I upgraded to the AMP crimper for these. This crimper is ridiculously expensive new, but many are available on the used market for a much better price. For simplicity, I source all but the flag terminals from Ancor. I used to have an Ancor 702035 (Tyco/AMP T-406 1526955-1) Heavy Duty Lug Crimper for regular 6 AWG terminals, but I sold that when I migrated to Power Lug terminals; I still have the blue 6 AWG terminals.
18-10 AWG Crimper: Ancor 702015
10 AWG Crimper: AMP 59239-4
18-10 AWG Heat-Shrink Crimper: Compass Marine PRO-HST

Flag Connectors
These little devils are a necessity in locations with minimal depth. However, they require a special crimper. I sourced mine from Ferrules Direct. The connectors themselves took a bit of sourcing to ensure quality versions. I ended up with Molex connectors from Digikey: WM18249, WM18248, and WM18247.
Crimper 14-16 AWG: FDT10055
Crimper 10-12 AWG: FDT10058

Andrerson Power Pole
I standardised on these where cable disconnects were needed. Deutsch DT connectors look nicer, but these are more interchangeable allowing for reduced stocking, and have nice interoperability. I couldn't handle the price of the two expensive Anderson crimpers for the smaller connectors, and instead went with the low cost Powerwerx combined model.
Crimper PP15/30/45: Powerwerx TRIcrimp
Crimper PP75: Anderson 1309G4

[john61ct]

Wow a thing of beauty that.

Hitting Google now for more "crimper porn", rule 34 at work.

Yeah I know, I'm sick, but hey, there's worse vices 8-)

[Zil]

Nice setup. I have the Ftz cable crimper. I wish I had the bench mount version for the 2/0 cables.

[Iron E]

Great selection.

I've got a few different pairs of strippers. The Ideal shown here looks to be a pretty close copy of my very old General Cement Wire Strippers.

[GordMay]

Originally Posted by Iron E

Great selection.

I've got a few different pairs of strippers. The Ideal shown here looks to be a pretty close copy of my very old General Cement Wire Strippers.

Interesting.
I’d never heard of the General Cement Mfg. Co.
Cementex WS1022-I Automatic Wire Stripper ➥ https://www.itm.com/product/cementex...yABEgJOGvD_BwE

The first “automatic” wire stripper was patented, in 1915, by S.G. Wood, and has undergone many changes, since then. One such innovation came in 1943 and was also invented by Wood, this style continues today, and is made by [both] Klein Tools [Katapult®], and Ideal Tools [Strip-Master®].
The European style of wire stripper, made by Knipex, Klein, & etc, comes at the wire from the front, as opposed to doing it from the side, as above.

Some patent history:

➥ https://www.datamp.org/patents/searc...ny.php?id=6116
➥ https://www.datamp.org/patents/searc...y.php?id=11784

[Iron E]

Originally Posted by GordMay

Interesting.
I’d never heard of the General Cement Mfg. Co.
Cementex WS1022-I Automatic Wire Stripper ➥ https://www.itm.com/product/cementex...yABEgJOGvD_BwE

The first “automatic” wire stripper was patented, in 1915, by S.G. Wood, and has undergone many changes, since then. One such innovation came in 1943 and was also invented by Wood, this style continues today, and is made by [both] Klein Tools [Katapult®], and Ideal Tools [Strip-Master®].
The European style of wire stripper, made by Knipex, Klein, & etc, comes at the wire from the front, as opposed to doing it from the side, as above.

Some patent history:

➥ https://www.datamp.org/patents/searc...ny.php?id=6116
➥ https://www.datamp.org/patents/searc...y.php?id=11784

Interesting Gordy, I didn't look up the Patent on the strippers. The ones I have are called Speedex Trig O Matic Automatic Wire Stripper, and yes they are a SG Wood patent (improved) looks like he improved his original strippers in 1940

https://patents.google.com/patent/US2313793A/en

[Dockhead]

Matter of taste, but I prefer a high grade precision ratchet crimper, to the Ancor type which MaineSail favors.


I use this one for insulated crimp terminals of the "red, blue, yellow" type: https://www.pressmaster.se/products/#crimping


I use Molex Permaseal heat sealed terminals for almost everything. Expensive.


I have a bunch of different crimpers on board, including crimpers for RJ-45 terminals, for various coax connectors, flag terminals, etc.


My most recent acquisition was a hex crimper for wire ferrules, which I now use as a rule instead of just sticking bare wire into screw terminals of whatever type. Seems to make a big difference.


For joining very small wires I have started to use Wago lever connectors -- they are great! Not waterproof so I put all such junctions in mini waterproof junction boxes.

[Iron E]

On a related note:
NEVER use any crimp/strip tool that resembles the picture I attached.
I know that MHT touches on how bad of a crimp tool they are, but, he touches on how bad of a job they do.
These types of crimpers/strippers are flat-out dangerous. Unless you have a pretty good First Aid kit and you're not averse to hand injuries, these shouldn't be in anyone's toolbox, let alone on their boat.

[SV Confianza]

I am very partial to my Irwin vice grips automatic wire stripper. It’s not expensive and is going on 6 or 7 years without any issues. The grip isn’t as splayed apart as the stripmaster. So I find it easier to handle when contorted into whatever crazy position is necessary. I do have hands on the smaller side, though.

[MicHughV]

wanna keep things simple an affordable ??

this is what I use.....I crimp the fitting 2-3 times starting from the terminal side,

the tool is not strong enough to cut thru' anything, but strong enough to make a bite in a fitting.

Works like a charm....
https://www.grainger.com/product/1UG...E&gclsrc=aw.ds

[Bowdrie]

Originally Posted by ayates

My original double-crimp crimper from Ancor, purchased in 2003, is no longer available. It is very nice, but it requires a lot of hand pressure for 10 AWG terminals;

I still have/use mine, got it in the middle>late '80s.
Back then they were sold/branded under license.
I think they were made by either AMP or Thomas & Betts.
The T&B crimper was still under patent when I got it in the '70s.
T&B crimper = $100
Ancor crimper = $100
That was big money back then.
Up until a few years ago, both had been in more-or-less continuous usage, and both still work like the day they were new.

[hlev00]

The HST are purported to be the best.

https://webstore.panbo.com/products/hst-pro-crimper

[GordMay]

Originally Posted by Bowdrie

I still have/use mine [Anchor], got it in the middle>late '80s.
Up until a few years ago, both had been in more-or-less continuous usage, and both still work like the day they were new.

My Ideal Strip-Masters were already twenty years old, when you got your stripper[s].

[ohgary]

Having the correct crimping tool is just half the work. Knowing how to use them properly is where most people fail. The is a correct position a crimp should be made. It will vary by tool, but not by connector.

[GordMay]

Originally Posted by ohgary

... The is a correct position a crimp should be made. It will vary by tool, but not by connector.

I don't understand.
Ideally [no pun intended], the tool should be matched to the connector.