Differences in Small Case Alternator Efficiencies

[wsmurdoch]

I don't have a CS130D here at home (it is the alternator that I have on my boat modified for a Balmar external regulator), but looking at these two internet photos it looks like the Balar temperature sensor could be easily bolted to the rectifier plate. There is a grounded mounting bolt hole on the rectifier plate just to the right of the "B+" bolt. The bolt that passes through that hole in the rectifier plate is at about 11 o'clock in the photo of the alternator with its rear plastic cover removed. I think (?) the Balmar temperature sensor could be mounted there and the wire brought out through the rear plastic cover.

[rgleason]

These are all good points being made
1. Large case is better than small case.
2 Two fans better than one.
3. Remote or external regulation with alt temp and bat temp sensing to protect equipment.
4. Operation at design speeds, ie 3000 rpm at engine idle to increase cooling and output and efficiency.
5. Remote diodes to remove heat source.
6. Draw air in a fiberglass duct down along the bilge to cool it and direct it into the alt fans.
7. Active water cooling with CPU coolers applied to the outside of the case with thermal paste.
8. Larger conductive alu fins with airflow to draw heat out and transfer heat
7. Possibly serpentine belt and wheels to prevent slipage and heating bearings too much.

[rgleason]

Regarding A64 jackplate idea to speed up the alt fans to improve cooling and improve the capacity to make amps.

Most of us are barely able to turn our alternator at 1600 when engine is idling at 750rpm.
We need a jackshaft that will double this.
So, the flywheel drive belt goes to a 2.5" pulley on a short suported shaft. The pulley adjacent on the shaft is say 4" in diameter. It has a belt going to another 2.5" pulley on the alternator. If the flywheel is just 4.75", what is the rpm of the alternator with the engine at 750rpm?

What if you could improve your alt output by 30% with this jackshaft? What would this be worth to you if you no longer needes a new alt and seepentine kit?

[rgleason]

Bosch 540i Liquid cooled thread.
https://www.google.com/search?q=bosc...=firefox-b-1-m

Some pretty good information
90a at idle, goes up to 150a output.
Inside temp stays way lower than similar air cooled. Expensive but there are alternatives.

[rgleason]

$325 https://www.partsgeek.com/mmparts/al.../bmw/540i.html
Liquid cooled. Need to get the dimensions and specs.

[john61ct]

Standard on some Porsche as well. Not KISS though, would not be my first choice approach.

[rgleason]

https://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/s...led-alternator

Still looking for dimensions. Internal regulator would need modification to external.

[rgleason]

So what is your first choice, John?

[a64pilot]

Originally Posted by rgleason

$325 https://www.partsgeek.com/mmparts/al.../bmw/540i.html
Liquid cooled. Need to get the dimensions and specs.

Be interesting to know how it’s cooled, by that I mean does it have it’s own radiator and coolant? I’d assume it would, cause if would be tough to cool it with 195f engine coolant.

Would you raw water cool it in a boat? That would be easiest, but wonder how long it would last?

[newhaul]

Originally Posted by a64pilot

Be interesting to know how it’s cooled, by that I mean does it have it’s own radiator and coolant? I’d assume it would, cause if would be tough to cool it with 195f engine coolant.

Would you raw water cool it in a boat? That would be easiest, but wonder how long it would last?

they are tied into the vehicles engine cooling system usually just before the heater core.

[wingssail]

Originally Posted by rgleason

These are all good points being made
1. Large case is better than small case.
2 Two fans better than one.
3. Remote or external regulation with alt temp and bat temp sensing to protect equipment.
4. Operation at design speeds, ie 3000 rpm at engine idle to increase cooling and output and efficiency.
5. Remote diodes to remove heat source.
6. Draw air in a fiberglass duct down along the bilge to cool it and direct it into the alt fans.
7. Active water cooling with CPU coolers applied to the outside of the case with thermal paste.
8. Larger conductive alu fins with airflow to draw heat out and transfer heat
7. Possibly serpentine belt and wheels to prevent slipage and heating bearings too much.

I think you guys are over engineering this.

I use a standard, older, 90 series, Balmar small frame alternator (130 amp) with a small (2.5") pulley and a single belt, on the standard Yanmar crank pulley.

I have a temperature sensor on the outside of the case on my alternator and the regulator backs off the field current to maintain reasonable temperatures, although I have gone into the advanced programming and raised the permitted max temps quite a bit on the advice of the Balmar tech. I have spare alternators though no more of the 90 series Balmar, which runs cooler than the newer ones.

We see about 130 amps at start up and can maintain over 100 amps for probably 1/2 hour, running the engine at 2000 rpm.

I don't see why a cruiser would try to push a system much beyond that, alternator and regulator breakage is too common, to my way of thinking.

Keep it simple.

[john61ct]

Originally Posted by rgleason

So what is your first choice, John?

Depends on the use case. Given a blank check for a small boat, and enough space, I'd fancy a small diesel engine with clutch/pulley or gearing system allowing for direct propulsion,
high current DC power generation,
possibly a high gph watermaker and/or
charging cold plates

but not all at the same time

whole setup ideally robust and easy to maintain in third-world conditions.

Would likely cost more than the rest of the boat was worth.

[Paul L]

Originally Posted by john61ct

Depends on the use case. Given a blank check for a small boat, and enough space, I'd fancy a small diesel engine with clutch/pulley or gearing system allowing for direct propulsion,
high current DC power generation,
possibly a high gph watermaker and/or
charging cold plates

but not all at the same time

whole setup ideally robust and easy to maintain in third-world conditions.

Would likely cost more than the rest of the boat was worth.

So as long as you don't have to consider tbe constraints of the real world, here's my strong recommendations......

[john61ct]

Reality is easily altered by hard work and focused intent.

If the hardest obstacle is just money, then a relatively easy goal.

[newhaul]

Originally Posted by john61ct

Depends on the use case. Given a blank check for a small boat, and enough space, I'd fancy a small diesel engine with clutch/pulley or gearing system allowing for direct propulsion,
high current DC power generation,
possibly a high gph watermaker and/or
charging cold plates

but not all at the same time

whole setup ideally robust and easy to maintain in third-world conditions.

Would likely cost more than the rest of the boat was worth.

start with a kubota z500 engine . ( full rebuild kit I voiding pigeons rings and sleeves $400) From a carrier reefer system off a semi. Cost about $500 250 amp alternator off a surplus millitary hummer about $400 . Hurth transmission for propulsion side about $350 ( on my local craigslist this week ) Run a technautics 12 volt holding plate refrigeration system and a spectra cape horn 330 extreme .

The reefer and the watermaker are the expensive part.
But first you need a boat to put any of it in :-)