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Cadence · 16-08-2016, 06:54

Quote:

Originally Posted by tkeithlu

Hey, Boatbod - Thanks for the update on load testing. I'm a victim of learning my mechanics in the 1960s, and didn't know electronics had entered that area. What scares me is diesels becoming electronic - leaving the possibility of a blackbox failure that no at-sea mechanic can repair. Fortunately for me, I run an old Navy 4-53 main and a Universal M-25 genset.

Fuel filter, starter and heat exchange core and you are good for life.

**tkeithlu** · 16-08-2016, 06:55

Let me qualify that. Amazon wants $1500 for that tester, versus $22 for a resistance load tester from Harbor Freight. I'd love to have one, but that's more than the cost of replacing my entire house battery bank. Great for a yard, but for a boat owner doing his own maintenance?

boatbod · 16-08-2016, 18:56

Quote:

Originally Posted by tkeithlu

Hey, Boatbod - Thanks for the update on load testing. I'm a victim of learning my mechanics in the 1960s, and didn't know electronics had entered that area. What scares me is diesels becoming electronic - leaving the possibility of a blackbox failure that no at-sea mechanic can repair. Fortunately for me, I run an old Navy 4-53 main and a Universal M-25 genset.

EPA emissions rules have essentially driven the adoption of fully electronic common rail diesel engines. They started big (200~400HP) and are getting smaller all the time. These days the largest of the Yanmar 4cyl (4JH) series are there, and it's only their smaller engines under 100HP that have yet to be affected.

By the way, the conductance battery testers are still a little pricey for an individual to own for personal use, but they are essential equipment for boatyards and battery dealers. That said, you can still learn just about all you ever need to know about the condition of a battery by hooking up a digital volt meter to check the "resting voltage" and then watching how quickly the voltage rises as you apply charging current.

Any battery that rests at less than "full" (12.7-12.8v) and is subject to a charging current should either take appreciable current or appreciable time to rise to absorption voltage. If the voltage rise is very quick and/or the charge current very low it indicates a badly sulfated battery that should be replaced. Similarly, any battery that continues to accept significant charge current but never reaches the absorption threshold (or gets very hot when charged) is suspect for a bad cell.

geoleo · 16-08-2016, 19:49

Well went to boat today and checked both voltage and fluid. Voltage was 6.3 -6.4 on all batts, fluid was 1.121-1.123 on all cells. The combined voltage full bank was 12.4. Then I discovered that the solar controller was not charging! It is a older Xantrex without the heat sink. Then I discovered that the very seldom used Pro Mariner 40 amp 115 volt charger was not working either!!! Damn ! Started engine (spun nicely) and the Balmar alt with its Balmar regulator was working and soon brought volts going in up to 14 volts--so at least that's OK. What too do --what to do???? Think I will take my little Walmart 15 amp charger to boat. Remove bothe the Xantex Controller and the dead Pro Mariner Charger and send them to their makers--and charging the house bank up with the little charger. Suggestions ? I really don't think anything seriously wrong with the bank--could use equalizing probably ---but I don't have equipment for that . I miss the old Charles charger I had on a previous boat!!!

DeepFrz · 16-08-2016, 21:42

Check the Trojan web site for the bulk charge voltage setting. It should be quite a bit higher than 14 volts. Somewhere around 14.4 to 14.8 probably.

mitiempo · 16-08-2016, 22:24

Quote:

Originally Posted by DeepFrz

Check the Trojan web site for the bulk charge voltage setting. It should be quite a bit higher than 14 volts. Somewhere around 14.4 to 14.8 probably.

For T-105 bulk is 14.8 volts

mako · 16-08-2016, 22:57

Quote:

Originally Posted by tkeithlu

What scares me is diesels becoming electronic - leaving the possibility of a blackbox failure that no at-sea mechanic can repair. Fortunately for me, I run an old Navy 4-53 main and a Universal M-25 genset.

Agree. But for us guys going the new-build route then we have no choice. However the reliability of electronic engines from the major manufacturers with their commercial rated engines, is excellent.

**tkeithlu** · 17-08-2016, 05:44

Thanks, Boatbod. That's a very clear explanation and very useful information for the individual trying to manage the battery bank. I'm filing a copy for future reference.

Doesn't that Pro Mariner have a charging sequence similar to the Balmar regulator?

Might you do a better job of straightening out the bank by running the engine and charging from the Balmar than by subjecting the bank to the whims of a manual charger? Maybe manual for awhile and then switch to the Balmar?

geoleo · 17-08-2016, 12:24

Well I talked to Xantrex and they still make the controller Model C-35 and the new ones are the same and new ones do not have the finned heat sink on top. They said to check incoming and outgoing voltage as these units seldom go wrong and I could have a problem in the cables . They will sell me a new one direct for $83. The are $100 at Amozonia. I also called pro Mariner and they said they haven't made my Model 40amp for 5 years even though I bought it 2.4 years ago and its a 2 year warranty--then they said they would give me a deal on a new one for $300!!! This is bullshitsky! With my 450 watts of solar and 100 amp Balmar I really don't need a hi powered charger--just one in case of emergencies. Any suggestions out there? By the way the Xantrex C35 has a built-in Equalization mode that does it every 30 days and can be adjusted . It also has a function that shuts it off when it senses night time. Geo

boatbod · 17-08-2016, 14:43

Personally I've always thought it useful to have a decent battery charger to use when the sun isn't available and it's inconvenient to run the engine for 6-8hrs to top off the cells.

sailinglegend · 18-08-2016, 11:06

Quote:

Originally Posted by geoleo

......With my 450 watts of solar and 100 amp Balmar I really don't need a hi powered charger--just one in case of emergencies....

You will never get the batteries to a true 100% full without a shorepower charger. This should be used every 2-3 weeks - otherwise the batteries sulfate and you would need to equalize them with a suitable charger. Alternatively you would have to run the Balmar for about 24 hours - which is a very noisy and inefficient way to charge batteries. There are not enough hours in the day with only 450 watts of solar - even if a little light comes on to tell you the batteries are full. Float mode does not mean full.

There are a lot of posts on here about getting batteries 100% charged and why it is so important.

sailorboy1 · 18-08-2016, 12:13

Isn't kind of sad that as often as batteries and charging are discussed that people still don't know the basics? You can tell this by a question lots of times where the wording is such that you can tell the person thinks they understand, but the question as posed shows they don't. Then they will even give a "I don't need ...." reply where in fact they do need it, if they only understood as much as they believe they do.

geoleo · 19-08-2016, 16:59

UPDATE! Ordered a new Xantex C35.(Solar Controller) Older C35 was defective-however it did last 13years. It has capacity to do equalizing -manual or automatic every 30 days. Did not know this so never did it on old unit and do not know what it was set at-but that makes no diff now. I will do it on new unit. it sets equalizing current at 1 volt above bulk rate which I will set at 14.8V per Trojans spec. C35 will do this for 2 hours then return to its normal charging sequence. My portable charger now wont raise voltage above 12.5-12.6 after running for 24 hours it also says that is 80-85% of full charge . So batteries must be sulphated-Yes?