Do I need a new solar controller?

[Kalimniosjohn]

I’m looking at two options. The first being a single controller which I think should be capable of handling all my current and future solar needs. Is this a good choice? I like that I can monitor it from my phone or tablet.

https://www.solar-electric.com/victr...SABEgITLPD_BwE

Second option is two of these.
https://www.invertersupply.com/index...iABEgLOu_D_BwE

[Adelie]

I would get smaller MPPT controllers for each panel except those on arches. Any future additions would each get individual MPPT controllers.

[smac999]

Originally Posted by Kalimniosjohn

I’m looking at two options. The first being a single controller which I think should be capable of handling all my current and future solar needs. Is this a good choice? I like that I can monitor it from my phone or tablet.

https://www.solar-electric.com/victr...SABEgITLPD_BwE

Second option is two of these.
https://www.invertersupply.com/index...iABEgLOu_D_BwE

I would run the two 30's. it's cheaper and actully better to have one for each panel. also means if one fails one panel still works. the only downside is checking up amps / watts on 2 different sources vrs reading the total off one. however this helps if one is working better then other you can catch it.

[Compass790]

Originally Posted by sailorchic34

the Morningstar TriStar 45 is a pwm solar charge controller designed for either a 12-volt or 24 volt system. You have 24 volt panels but 12 volt batteries. So yes you're charge controller is not correct for the panels. I would recommend a victron smartsolar mppt 100/50. you can download an app to your phone or tablet and keep track of the output that way. It's quite a good charge controller.

Thanks for pointing out that you need to match panels to battery voltage. I have a 12/24v PWM controller & I was going to wire the 12v panels in series as I assumed the controller didn't care if the PV input was either 12v or 24v.
Their isn't any instruction with our CHEAP controller.( Been working for 3+ years tho.)
We bought an MPPT first up but didn't last long so we figured get bigger panels to make up the 10-20% deficit of using PWM over MPPT . Worked for us so far but we are talking bottom of the range here.

[Kalimniosjohn]

If I get these two controllers do I need anything else to monitor everything that needs attention? Do I need a shunt? My solar knowledge is in its infancy.

[smac999]

Originally Posted by Kalimniosjohn

If I get these two controllers do I need anything else to monitor everything that needs attention? Do I need a shunt? My solar knowledge is in its infancy.

if you get the bluetooth versions you can monitor them both from your phone. including history records of how much power they produced each day

[Kalimniosjohn]

Just an update. I actually went with a single victron SmartSolar controller and will get a second when I get around to installing more panels.

I installed it last night when there was no sun. So far today it seems to be doing a fabulous job. Hopefully it isn’t already too late for my batteries. Here’s a couple screen shots I took around 230pm today. Haven’t gotten to float charging yet, but the batteries started off pretty much dead.

I love the monitor on my phone too. Definitely glad I went with this unit.

[Kalimniosjohn]

Ha, it turns out as I was typing the previous reply It did indeed get to float charge! My batteries haven’t been this happy in two weeks since we left the dock!

[smac999]

367 max watts is defiantly better you had.

did you buy one 60a ?

[Kalimniosjohn]

Originally Posted by smac999

367 max watts is defiantly better you had.

did you buy one 60a ?

Yeah the last two days I’ve been in float charge by 1pm so it’s definitely much better then what I had.

I only got a 100/30 controller because I will be adding a second soon when I get two more 150watt panels. Then I’ll have a 240 watt and a 150 watt panel on each charger.

[Jelani]

I am having a similar problem, I have 3 160watt solar panels with an Mptt 100/30 Victron controller. However it is only putting out 25-28 watts on a sunny day for the last 7 days They were previously putting out upto 290watts. Checked each panel 21.5volts and getting +- 7amps which seems correct. I am wondering whether our controller is faulty. I have the Victron App but am reluctant to mess with any of the settings

[Compass790]

Originally Posted by Jelani

I am having a similar problem, I have 3 160watt solar panels with an Mptt 100/30 Victron controller. However it is only putting out 25-28 watts on a sunny day for the last 7 days They were previously putting out upto 290watts. Checked each panel 21.5volts and getting +- 7amps which seems correct. I am wondering whether our controller is faulty. I have the Victron App but am reluctant to mess with any of the settings

Certainly sounds like yr controller is faulty as panels are putting out way more than the controller is passing in.

[Kalimniosjohn]

Yep that’s about the same thing my old controller was doing. The new one solved the problem.

How old is your victron?

[Stu Jackson]

Originally Posted by Kalimniosjohn

>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
Do I need a shunt? My solar knowledge is in its infancy.

Glad to hear you found something that works for you.


A shunt is for measuring amps and then amp hours.


Don't rejoice on going into float yet UNTIL you learn about the settings for your controller and you learn more about boat electricity stuff. For example only, defaults on controllers are set for generic systems and YOU have to determine which is right for you for, say, the max length of time in absorbtion before it goes to float and what those voltages are. They are adjustable in most cases so you can max out absorbtion and raise float voltage if you want the max out fo your panels. Of course, this is all based on the entirety of your electrical support system, like engine & generator, other sources on input.
Good luck.

[Kalimniosjohn]

Originally Posted by Stu Jackson

Glad to hear you found something that works for you.


A shunt is for measuring amps and then amp hours.


Don't rejoice on going into float yet UNTIL you learn about the settings for your controller and you learn more about boat electricity stuff. For example only, defaults on controllers are set for generic systems and YOU have to determine which is right for you for, say, the max length of time in absorbtion before it goes to float and what those voltages are. They are adjustable in most cases so you can max out absorbtion and raise float voltage if you want the max out fo your panels. Of course, this is all based on the entirety of your electrical support system, like engine & generator, other sources on input.
Good luck.

Stu, I did program the charge parameters to what I read was the proper volts for AGM batteries. I believe 14.6 absorption and 13.4 float. Can’t remember off the top of my head. Is there still more I can do?