Electric Galleys

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Originally Posted by LoudMusic

That said ... any future boat I operate will be at least 24v, but preferably 48vDC and 240vAC in order to reduce cable sizes. From there I'd use DC-DC converters if necessary, but the 48vDC equipment is slowly being built so hopefully in several more years it will be possible to outfit a boat with it.

Now in Europa you have 48v alternator for some hybrid car. but I think very soon all car in EU switch to 24-48v and truck to 48v.
by law and rule 12v-48v is some cable (low voltage in vehicle by EU law is under 60v or 50v i forget) i think lot airplane alternator is 48v.
windlase
Maxwell is boosting it up with its new 48V DC motors!As 48V battery banks continue to grow in popularity, there is a growing demand for 48V versions of high power equipment like propulsion motors, bow thrusters, and windlasses. To acknowledge this growing trend, and to maintain our standing as innovative leaders in anchoring systems, we are now including a “48V upgrade”
https://www.vetus.com/en/blog/48v-no...ale-range.html

[StuM]

Originally Posted by more

you think, lab small electric arc furnace for melting SS use 300 amp
I with 300A 24-35v with cellulose electrode in couple second cut 10 cm Steal bar
Try welding with 200A tell me the result.

Amps without voltage are meaningless.
What voltage are those furnaces? i.e. how much power (in Watts) is being drawn?

Your 300A bar cutter is drawing 7.2 - 10-5 kW (600- 875A @ 12V)
A 200A welder will draw about 5kW (over 400A @ 12V)


My 3000W inverter can comfortably draw 250A from my 12V AGM bank

[fxykty]

We have a 12V / 230V ex-European boat. We have swapped to a 12V 700Ah LFP battery and a 5000W inverter to power our new electric galley. Max draw we’ve seen so far is 450A with everything turned on, which seemed to be no problem and with virtually no voltage drop. We try to keep our draws to 0.3C continuous and less than 1C for short times.

We have 2x 120mm^2 cables each for positive and negative from battery to bus bars and from bus bars to inverter and put everything close together to minimise wire lengths. The inverter manual recommends less than 5m of wire length.

The refit was expensive enough without switching to 24V too, and once you get it to 230V the draw doesn’t matter. But I expect we’re just about maxed out on what 12V can handle.

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Originally Posted by fxykty

We have a 12V / 230V ex-European boat. We have swapped to a 12V 700Ah LFP battery and a 5000W inverter to power our new electric galley. Max draw we’ve seen so far is 450A with everything turned on, which seemed to be no problem and with virtually no voltage drop. We try to keep our draws to 0.3C continuous and less than 1C for short times.

We have 2x 120mm^2 cables each for positive and negative from battery to bus bars and from bus bars to inverter and put everything close together to minimise wire lengths. The inverter manual recommends less than 5m of wire length.

The refit was expensive enough without switching to 24V too, and once you get it to 230V the draw doesn’t matter. But I expect we’re just about maxed out on what 12V can handle.

what you have Quattro 12V inverter 5000w around 3400€
vs Quattro Inverter 24V 5000VA 2300€
yes used not project boat is expensive to switch to 24-48v

but on a boat where you must exchange windlass motor and autopilot is cheaper go on 24v.
The price of copper tined wire is now skyrocket price.

[s/v Jedi]

Originally Posted by Simi 60

Why do you switch it off?

We’re close to finishing a setup that compromises between technical minimalistic and practical use. It’s based on all the situations wefound ourselves in over the past 20 years of cruising.

For this big and small inverter thing: for our setup it isn’t just the idle load of the inverter/charters but also of an auto transformer to create the 120V at the outlets. The advantages of that big system are enormous, making it a must-have for boats with electric galleys, but for situations where power demand is low, the negative of idle load becomes a factor.

Yes, we have a big battery (10.5 kWh) and also plenty solar (1,875W) and while this enables a brute force approach, it would be better to reduce power consumption when possible.

There are two clear cases for this: during the nights and during periods of storage. During storage I want my big Lithium battery to sit disconnected at 60% SOC, while another (currently AGM) bank is used for power during storage. This isn’t just for pumps but also for running a dehumidifier which is 120V AC.

We are putting these small inverters in every cabin and during storage just run one and use an extension cord to reach the dehumidifier.