Electrical connectors. Which ones ???????

[sailingchiro]

Ox gard or dielectric grease is in all connections I make. I use crimped connectors with the built on heat shrink with racheting crimpers. I purchase all my tinned crimps from a marine supply store in Pensacola in bulk. I also purchased a red and black duplex large roll (100') of 10 gauge ancor tinned wire. It was much cheaper than buying by the foot. (about $60 each). I find 10 gauge is pretty universal. I have used many times and it is best to have the correct wire than trying to make do with wire from auto supply. I also purchased several feet of 1/0 wire for battery connections. I also have a roll of 12 gauge 120 volt wire for the a/c side of the panel.

I squirt ox-gard in the connector with a little on the wire. Put wire in connector, crimp very well and heat the shrink. The ox-gard will ooze out. I clean off the excess and apply to terminal end if fastened with nut or screw.

I stopped soldering connections several years ago.

[Rough Magic]

+1 for Wirefly connectors. I've used them in my truck, boat, and ham radio gear. No failures yet. Spend the money for the correct crimper. All worth it IMHO.

[steamgoat]

I rewired my boat, buy the proper tools and get your connectors from Genuinedealz ,they have good prices which include ups priority shipping.

[Mithril Bham]

I have a big box of cheap crimp tools that I have purchased over the years. Finally bit the bullet and bought good Ancor tools. Should have done that 20 years ago. I am by no means an expert but go Ancor all the way. Heat shrink only. After reading the comments above I will now try 3M since I like all of their other products. Know the difference between single crimp and double crimp.

[s/v Jedi]

So the OP asks about connectors and not a single reply about connectors that I could find...

So here is one: I recommend genuine Anderson connectors.

The picture also shows the Wirefy crimp terminals and a Blue Sea Systems terminal block. This is all 10AWG but this Anderson connector supports up to 6AWG and 60A current or so. Silver contacts.

Edit: no, the feed is 8AWG and it is distributed to 3x 10AWG for our new refrigeration units.

[s/v Jedi]

Here you can see one in action. I think they are the best typeof connector for boat DC systems.

[Tom_F]

Originally Posted by s/v Jedi

So here is one: I recommend genuine Anderson connectors.

Jedi, that Anderson connector looks interesting. I've always used WeatherPak, but these look a little more robust. WeatherPak are great when a weather seal are needed, but I find the small terminals a little too fiddly for my fat, clumsy fingers.

[Rough Magic]

Anderson are great. But not waterproof. They are designed for connecting and disconnecting. Hams use these in their radio shacks. They could be made waterproof with sealant and silicone tape. But why not use Ankor, 3M, or Wirefly tinned heatshrink? Quick and easy.

[wingless]

Originally Posted by wingless

Welcome to the forum.

Great plan on doing the projects correctly. There are books that would be helpful in that effort.

The marine usage of solder is almost always inappropriate.

Marine electrical connectors must instead be properly crimped, using the correct tooling. There are many manufacturers offering high quality crimp connectors and high quality tools. These parts must also be used correctly.

The usage of solder is acceptable on a boat.

The ABYC standard states: "Solder shall not be the sole means of mechanical connection in any circuit".

This reply shows how I use staggered, soldered, Western Union splices w/ strain relief. This soldered splice complies w/ ABYC standards.

This reply shows my thick wire crimp tool, good for 8AWG to 4/0 copper wire, with the die sets I currently have on hand.

This reply shows my medium sized wire crimp tool, good for 8AWG to 2AWG wire and my Faston flag crimp tool.

This reply shows the tool I like to use for the red / blue / yellow crimp connectors, plus my connector assortment, organized by stud size and type.

This reply shows my Brady ID Xpert labels applied to marine wires and surfaces.

This reply shows a supplemental wiring diagram I create when updating or installing wiring on my boat.

[s/v Jedi]

Originally Posted by Rough Magic

Anderson are great. But not waterproof. They are designed for connecting and disconnecting. Hams use these in their radio shacks. They could be made waterproof with sealant and silicone tape. But why not use Ankor, 3M, or Wirefly tinned heatshrink? Quick and easy.

those are terminals, not connectors. They are waterproof because I use glue lined heatshrink. The actual contacts that are exposed are silver

I use Wirefy terminals as well.

[roland stockham]

You should definitely spend some money on decent tools. Ratchet crimping pliers with a double blade not the cheap pliers. Proper cable crimping tool for battery cables, depending on boat size up to about 02. Not a tool you use often but getting heavy cables made up will soon pay the cost of buying the tool and it means you can install cables to exactly the right length. A reasonable quality multi meter is also invaluable and if possible a hi amp clamp meter.
Tinned everything is the gold standard but pricey. I have found that provided you use fine strand flexible cable and seal the ends well untinned cable in sizes above 12g lasts a good 10 years unless it is in a very wet area like the bilge Lighter weight tinned cable won't break the bank and because of the bigger surface area (I think) is more prone to corrosion. The key is effectively sealing stuff from damp saly air. Putting stuff in boxes works and also using a spray on seal once connections are complete

[moseriw]

https://www.facebook.com/groups/4974...6881604050474/

[Scorpius]

I don't know where this idea of not soldering came from. For a lot of years soldering was the gold standard, then, poof, it is verboten. It takes time and some skill to properly solder connections. I suspect that boat builders, wanting to save time and perhaps use less skilled workers, lobbied for the change.

For 35 years I've soldered EVERY wire connection on Scorpius and had only ONE failure - and that was on a running light exposed to breaking seas. And even that wasn't a failure of the solder joint but of the originally installed (not by me!) untinned automotive wire.

Recently, for light duty wiring (and there's a lot of that now with LED lighting) I've stopped using ring, fork, or hook connectors, instead just baring the last inch or so of the (marine-grade) wire, "tinning" it with solder to make a "solid" wire, then bending it into a hook which goes around/under the terminal screw as in house wiring. As far as I am concerned that technique eliminates a couple of potential failure points and there is absolutely no reason why that should come loose any easier than a ring connector. Besides, anytime I even look at a terminal block I try to tighten every screw. Hardly ever does anything move. And of course there are very, very few connections (except for running lights, etc.) in places where they can possibly get wet short of a complete flooding of the hull.

I NEVER use butt connectors. If at all possible I run a new wire directly from the breaker or terminal block. If not I make a Western Union splice, solder it, cover and seal with silicon lined heat-shrink tubing. If I tap into an existing line I do the same thing. As I say, 35 years with only one failure. I think all this talk of the importance of using the same brand of crimping tool as the connectors is only necessary to at least partially overcome the inherent deficiencies of crimp-on connectors in the first place.

Heresy I know. Just my two cents worth.

[s/v Jedi]

Originally Posted by Scorpius

Heresy I know. Just my two cents worth.

Not heresy, you’re just wrong, that’s all. There is no question that a good crimp outperforms soldering, so that is why you’re wrong.

On the other hand, you are right that soldering, while inferior to crimping, if done by someone capable, can still be good enough. That’s where you’re at. So, explain how you keep moisture away from the soldered connection and from entering the strands into the insulation? I bet you’re gonna say something like “adhesive lined heatshrink”, which is what the crimp terminals have. You’re then basically emulating it, spending 10x more time at each connection, ending up with an inferior result... which can still be good enough

[sailah]

Heat Shrink Terminals I have settled on and been very happy with: 3M ScotchLok and my favorite is Molex Permaseal

See examples here https://www.waytekwire.com/products/...ink-Insulated-

For lugs etc I also use Molex Tinned Copper

See examples here https://www.waytekwire.com/products/...Copper&mfg=130

For sheathing these battery terminals in adhesive lined shrink I use this. It's called polyolefin or dual wall and has the glue that seeps out when you use heat gun. CHeap when you buy in bulk

https://www.waytekwire.com/products/...ial=Polyolefin

For wire I like Ancor but also used Marine Master tinned copper cable. Seems every bit as good as Ancor but cheaper.

For tools I have the following

Heat Shrink terminal crimps: Sargent 3120CT but Maine Sail has a good pair on his webstore

Insulated crimps (not heat shrink)- I use Panduit CT-1551

I also just bought some NOS AMP PIDG 59255 crimpers as they were touted to be "the best". There's a guy selling them on ebay for $25 shipped but they only do 14-16g blues. But oh my, they are exceptional. Fabulous crimps and I will use them whenever I can. Not exactly handy or light but if you have the space or shop they are great.

I also have a pair of German Wiha crimpers that I bought for a special project.

For wire strippers I use Kleins, have 2 pair one for regular boat wire and 1 pair for up to 32AWG. I also use the Klein Katapaults and they are pretty slick but probably not a boat tool.

For heat guns, i just have a cheap Harbor Freight gun and it works great.

For other wiring stuff like terminal blocks and fuse holders, I have turned to industrial suppliers that I use for business.

Terminal blocks that I like (and WAY cheaper than "boat") are TE Connectivity (new AMP). Example below but of course avail in as many positions as you want and any pitch

https://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail...13SVsWOw%3D%3D

(big) Fuse holders I like: https://www.waytekwire.com/item/4603...er-with-Cover/

(medium) Fuse holders I like: https://www.waytekwire.com/item/4600...-Fuse-Holder-/

Inline fuse holders: https://www.waytekwire.com/item/4648...-Fuse-Holder-/