Electrical connectors. Which ones ???????

[mrh123]

One thing that hasn't been mentioned is support. Wire terminations often fail due to cyclic movement from vibration or in the case of a vessel, wave motion. Support your terminated wires in a loom with cable ties or spiral guard or similar and fix back to a bulkhead where possibke. This will greatly increase the life of any crimped or soldered joint.

[CaptnBry]

Proffesional electricians do not solder or recommend it. This must be because it takes so much time and expertise to do it correctly. The USAF has an excellent method, and that is what ive used on my boat for over two decades without corroded terminals on the ocean. Its slow, requires wicking control, thorough cleaning and sealing the results permanently. if you want the best, that's it.

[slug]

Originally Posted by mrh123

One thing that hasn't been mentioned is support. Wire terminations often fail due to cyclic movement from vibration or in the case of a vessel, wave motion. Support your terminated wires in a loom with cable ties or spiral guard or similar and fix back to a bulkhead where possibke. This will greatly increase the life of any crimped or soldered joint.

I observe that heat cycling ...expansion, contraction creates high resistance connections

Very good idea , as part of your normal maintenance cycle .. to re torque electrical fasteners

[Shaneesprit]

Hi
Well I always use deutsch connectors where I can, great for connecting multiple wires in a loom, and the plugs seal themselves and can be taken apart and put back together, the Crimp tool is expensive, as you would expect and you can even use just the metal pin and socket with heat shrink if your short on space and not at dangerous voltage. A lot of the engines use these as standard., what ever crimp you decide on buy a quality crimp tool not a DIY one.
I have Maybe 4 different crimp tools and none of them cost less than £50 and most double that or more.

[randygwatkins]

Here 'ya go...hot off the presses

https://www.practical-sailor.com/mar...ctricalSystems

[Steve DAntonio]

I'll second the recommendation for Wing's book, it's a must for DIYers who are still learning.

You might find this article on solderless (crimp) terminals and tools useful.
https://stevedmarineconsulting.com/crimping-etiquette/

While there's no harm, I would not agree that you need to use a crimper and crimps from the same manufacturer. Some of the best crimping tools are made by companies that don't even make crimp terminals, Ideal, Channelock (second to last photo in the article, and my preferred tool and what's preferred by most industry pros) and Klein being three of them. A ratcheting tool is probably best for a newbie; it makes it hard to get the right compression wrong. Ratcheting crimping tools are bulky and sometimes don't fit in tight spaces, I would say you need both. I own a few ratcheting tools, but I use the Channelock 95% of the time. Again, for the less experienced, a ratcheting tool makes sense.

[Lake-Effect]

Originally Posted by randygwatkins

Here 'ya go...hot off the presses

https://www.practical-sailor.com/mar...ctricalSystems

Interesting. Check out the comments, too. I doubt I'll ever use such connectors, just on price.

Originally Posted by Steve DAntonio

While there's no harm, I would not agree that you need to use a crimper and crimps from the same manufacturer. Some of the best crimping tools are made by companies that don't even make crimp terminals, Ideal, Channelock (second to last photo in the article, and my preferred tool and what's preferred by most industry pros) and Klein being three of them.

Wouldn't it be the case that the tool from a given manufacturer is most likely to be set up correctly for the same brand of connector?

Regardless, I'm convinced that one should standardize on one brand of crimp connectors and stick with it, and always test crimps made with a new crimper, and adjust the tool if necessary before trusting it as your regular crimper. I've even found that a decently-made Chinese ratcheting crimper can be adjusted to do an acceptable job, though they don't do as neat a crimp as a better-made tool.

One thing that's always bugged me - butt connectors! It's two crimps, and in the frequent case of joining wires of different diameters, you need expensive butts that accept two different gauges, or you're trying to double or triple the thinner wire to fill up the connector. How do you join more than 2 wires?

Yes they're inline so the wire can be pulled taut afterwards to take up less space... but then if you ever have to cut one off to splice in something else, you're SOL because there's little slack to work with.

Why doesn't the marine industry make more use of cap splices?




It's just one crimp, it's easier to connect multiple wires of differing diameters; they are all in contact with each other if you twist the wires together before inserting and crimping. You can visually confirm that the wires are through the ferrule before crimping. Easy to seal up afterwards; just squirt sealant into the one open end.

They're already approved by many standards bodies including UL. You see them a lot inside appliances for AC connections.

Anyway, just wondering.

[HeinSdL]

Are Superseal connectors any good or am I swearing in church? eg my Hella tricolor for up in the mast came with it so I'm assuming it is pretty good but I have not seen any mention of it.

[CharlieJ]

Lake-Effect #37
I do use them in a limited way. One of the main drawbacks to me is that their geometry is such that the stand proud and nearly perpendicular to the main conductor when used in lieu of a butt splice.

[Lake-Effect]

Originally Posted by CharlieJ

Lake-Effect #37
I do use them in a limited way. One of the main drawbacks to me is that their geometry is such that the stand proud and nearly perpendicular to the main conductor when used in lieu of a butt splice.

Thanks Charlie.

I'm of the school that there should never be buried, inaccessible splices, and that interconnection points should have enough room for a bit of wire slack to permit this sort of joint. But of course boats don't always provide that much room for connections.

[Scorpius]

Originally Posted by CaptnBry

Proffesional electricians do not solder or recommend it. This must be because it takes so much time and expertise to do it correctly. The USAF has an excellent method, and that is what ive used on my boat for over two decades without corroded terminals on the ocean. Its slow, requires wicking control, thorough cleaning and sealing the results permanently. if you want the best, that's it.

I absolutely totally agree. You cannot get a better electrical connection than with soldering. Of course I crimp ring terminals, etc. before soldering. However l refuse to use any type of connector for butt or tap splices. A soldered Western Union splice is FAR superior.

Besides, I understand the standards permit soldering provided it is not depended upon for the mechanical connection.

[Lake-Effect]

Originally Posted by Scorpius

A soldered Western Union splice is FAR superior.

A Western Union splice on stranded wire, then soldered, can still loosen if it overheats. It's also brittle at the ends. But they shouldn't cause problems if competently made and supported. However... for the time it takes to do that one competent soldered splice, the same person could have completed 5 to 10 crimped butt joints that are equally durable.

And pity the poor surveyor. She doesn't know what kind of connection she'll find under that heatshrink or blob of electrical tape. I've found unsoldered wires lightly twisted together then taped up.


Whereas when she sees a crimp, the tool's imprint, the metal deformation at the lug end, maybe gives it a good tug... it's quickly obvious that it's a satisfactory connection.

Some WW II aircraft electrical geeking out for everyone...

[smac999]

Anchor is $$$

I use ftz clear seal

FTZ Industries

[Wotname]

Originally Posted by Steve DAntonio

I'll second the recommendation for Wing's book, it's a must for DIYers who are still learning.

You might find this article on solderless (crimp) terminals and tools useful.
https://stevedmarineconsulting.com/crimping-etiquette/

While there's no harm, I would not agree that you need to use a crimper and crimps from the same manufacturer. Some of the best crimping tools are made by companies that don't even make crimp terminals, Ideal, Channelock (second to last photo in the article, and my preferred tool and what's preferred by most industry pros) and Klein being three of them. A ratcheting tool is probably best for a newbie; it makes it hard to get the right compression wrong. Ratcheting crimping tools are bulky and sometimes don't fit in tight spaces, I would say you need both. I own a few ratcheting tools, but I use the Channelock 95% of the time. Again, for the less experienced, a ratcheting tool makes sense.

Best practice dictates calibrated tooling.
Second best practice dictates consistent repeatable quality results.

IMO, a non ratcheting crimp tool in the hands of an experienced operator can only be described as third best practice as the tool can't be effectively calibrated as it depends on operator manipulation and even experienced users do not get the same crimping pressure for each and every crimp.

I'm not saying they shouldn't be used rather that they should not be confused with best practice.

We all know that some professionals have better work practices than other professionals. We shouldn't let the lower quality work practices be considered to be the normal.

Lastly as you suggest, I agree non ratcheting crimp tools aren't suitable for the tyro.

[Steve DAntonio]

As I said, nothing wring with using crimps and tools from one manufacturer, but pro's rarely do this, most I work with use the Channelock style non-ratcheting crimper for the reasons I mentioned.

The cap connectors are incredibly popular with Taiwan boat builders, I see them used here all the time. As long as they meet the ABYC pull test, they can be used. I agree with Charlie, however, the geometry isn't ideal when pulling wires apart, and I'll add that in the "bucket" orientation they capture water. They should be oriented in the "umbrella" position instead.