Electrical mystery on my new-to-me 2007 Lagoon 380 S2

[belizesailor]

Yes, the plug looks like they just swapped the plug end and left euro wiring in place (check that gauge is adequate for lower voltage = higher amps). Same for breaker. It doesn't care whether 220 or 110, but needs to be correct amps.

Now what matters is whats down stream...my guess is its either all 120 or there is a transformer in there somewhere.

[svlamorocha]

Originally Posted by Cadence

I have to agree with those suggesting a professional. It sounds like a jury rig?

I (PE, ABYC cert marine electrician) do not see evidence of any jury rig. Just Euro wiring with a US plug, and signs of heat damage in the wire that goes into the plug.

Owner may need if pro if he does not know the basics of marinr wiring as in Calder, but let's not scare him/her making up a problem that we have not seen.

[svlamorocha]

Originally Posted by Three Sisters

From your post I gather that you are attempting to run air conditioning and other equipment rated for 220v/50hz from a 120v/60hz shorepower connection.

This may cause particular havoc with the capacitor(s), if so equipped, contained in the air conditioning units.

I agree

[svlamorocha]

Originally Posted by BrettB

So far, I have no found a lot of experience with European powered boats in Kemah, TX. So I am still working through the mystery.

Here is what I have for Shore Power Inlet:



Here is what I have for Shore Power Breaker:

That is a 32A breaker. It will help if you look at the wires going into and out of it and tells us the gauge of the wire in mm2. It will probably be 4 square milimiters.

Also please show the plates of the AC units.

[BrettB]

Trying to run the equipment was how we discovered the miss match. But now we are not trying to use it until we get it sorted out.

I believe the a/c plates said they would do 220v/50hz or 60hz. Will double check them and the water heater when I get back to the boat.

Unfortunately, the survey didn't reveal any of this.

Boat was moved to where we are currently docked, when it was listed for sale, so not entire sure of the previous circumstances.

I've emailed another professional, unfortunately not finding a lot of experience so far with international wiring in the Kemah, TX area.

[BrettB]

Originally Posted by svlamorocha

That is a 32A breaker. It will help if you look at the wires going into and out of it and tells us the gauge of the wire in mm2. It will probably be 4 square milimiters.

Also please show the plates of the AC units.

Thanks, svmorocha. Will check this out too.

[boatbod]

Originally Posted by BrettB

Trying to run the equipment was how we discovered the miss match. But now we are not trying to use it until we get it sorted out.

I believe the a/c plates said they would do 220v/50hz or 60hz. Will double check them and the water heater when I get back to the boat.

Unfortunately, the survey didn't reveal any of this.

Boat was moved to where we are currently docked, when it was listed for sale, so not entire sure of the previous circumstances.

I've emailed another professional, unfortunately not finding a lot of experience so far with international wiring in the Kemah, TX area.

There must be some reason the 120V inlet was installed in place of the euro 220V. I'd guess at least the battery charger has to be capable of dual voltage.

IMO you need to look at *every* piece of equipment and determine the allowable voltage (and frequency) ratings.

[DotDun]

Originally Posted by svlamorocha

That is a 32A breaker. It will help if you look at the wires going into and out of it and tells us the gauge of the wire in mm2. It will probably be 4 square milimiters.

Also please show the plates of the AC units.

The black covering normally has "3G4" or "3G6" printed on it, the first number is the quantity of wires, the second being the cross section in mm2.

[svlamorocha]

Originally Posted by BrettB

Thanks everyone for the tips and advice so far. I'll grab some photos of each step in the system once it is light out. I've also email Lagoon asking for a wiring diagram.

Will also read up on the other threads.

Here you have a 380 manual with a wiring diagram.

http://www.cata-lagoon.com/site_agen..._380-s2_uk.pdf

[svlamorocha]

Originally Posted by BrettB

Thanks, svmorocha. Will check this out too.

While you are at that you could also take photos of the markings on the wires that feed the water heater. The gauge of those wires will determine if you will need to downgrade the watt rating of the heating element when you buy the new 110V heating element (or upgrade the wire).

[Cadence]

Originally Posted by svlamorocha

I (PE, ABYC cert marine electrician) do not see evidence of any jury rig. Just Euro wiring with a US plug, and signs of heat damage in the wire that goes into the plug.

Owner may need if pro if he does not know the basics of marinr wiring as in Calder, but let's not scare him/her making up a problem that we have not seen.

I would hazard a guess, that he is experiencing voltage drop as a result of the two 50' extensions. Probably 10 AWG which is no place close to a 50 amp. draw at 100ft. JMHO

[DeepFrz]

I would hazard a guess, that he is experiencing voltage drop as a result of the two 50' extensions. Probably 10 AWG which is no place close to a 50 amp. draw at 100ft. JMHO

Yes, 100' of extension cord plus the voltage drop at the wiring on the connector will probably be a significant drop in voltage.

[BrettB]

Based on the text on the cable sheath from the shore power to the breaker it is 3x6MM². After the breaker, the sheath just has "100" all over it.

Both AC units & the water heater are 220V/50Hz.

Seems to me like 2 things were changed from the stock configuration: the shore power inlet and the battery charger.

[DotDun]

Originally Posted by BrettB

Based on the text on the cable sheath from the shore power to the breaker it is 3x6MM². After the breaker, the sheath just has "100" all over it.

Both AC units & the water heater are 220V/50Hz.

Seems to me like 2 things were changed from the stock configuration: the shore power inlet and the battery charger.

6mm2 will handle 30amps.

The water heater will operate at 25% power rating

You are probably out of luck with the AC units.

[BrettB]

Originally Posted by DotDun

6mm2 will handle 30amps.

The water heater will operate at 25% power rating

You are probably out of luck with the AC units.

As we plan to be cruising for a few years and "80% of shore power is 220 to 240-volt", I would like to get my boat back to European spec, but we do plan to be mostly on the hook.

Then I am trying to figure out how European boats at least charge their batteries when in places such as the US.