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Blue Stocking · 17-08-2010, 17:49

Quote:

Originally Posted by James S

Are the heat shrink type crimp connectors required in ABYC standards for normal connections i.e. not in the bilge or other areas exposed to water?
Its my understanding that they are not.

I also recently completed a rewire of a 32 year old boat that had non tined stranded wire (has tinned now).The ends of all wire was discolored (green), also used conventional crimp connectors, but all systems were operational when I removed it, except one...and that was the bonding wire on the thu-hull fittings...several of them were completely corroded away inside...just full of black dust looking stuff where the conductors should have been.

I'm not advocating heat shrink or not...just adding some prospective.

James,

YOU ARE NOTHING BUT A SHOW_OFF

beautiful work (hows the barge coming?)

Maine Sail · 17-08-2010, 18:30

Quote:

Originally Posted by James S

Are the heat shrink type crimp connectors required in ABYC standards for normal connections i.e. not in the bilge or other areas exposed to water?
Its my understanding that they are not.

E-11 does not require heat shrink crimps nor does it require tinned wire. You, as a boat owner, are also not required to wire to ABYC standards but it never hurts.

**James S** · 18-08-2010, 01:31

I can't take all the credit for the work, Our member CharlieJ gave up 6 weeks of last summer to come to Lebanon and ~~help me~~ let me help him rewire the boat.

gulf · 18-08-2010, 01:43

Quote:

Originally Posted by GordMay

Why do you think, that I think, that he's lying ?

I just have no idea who he is, nor why I should accept his opinion as gospel.

I was assuming that your were making a point relevant to push on connectors. My bad,

He probably does have plenty of information on his qualification and decades of experience on his website if wanted to look. Whatever.
In the article I linked to he appeals to the authority of Cessna. Since you didnt question the authority of Cessna instead of him, you're either questioning his truthfulness in that appeal or your question is pointless.

**James S** · 18-08-2010, 02:29

Lets leave this where it stands now...Our members can determine credibility on their own.
Thanks guys.

Christian Van H · 18-08-2010, 06:10

BTW, all tinned wire and heat shrink terminals here. I have followed ABYC standards, and went over and above to avoid voltage drop. If nothing else, it should help my resale value!

**James S** · 18-08-2010, 11:11

Sounds like a first class system Chris...we're waiting for some update pictures...havent heard anything in a while!!

jtclip · 19-08-2010, 11:51

I was just reading this thread and thought I would chime in on some of the comments regarding wire. My company is one of the ones listed in this thread. Having been in wire manufacturing for several years there are a few misconceptions regarding wire. First, Maine Sail is very accurate regarding his detail of why to use tinned wire and heat shrink terminals. I am new to the forum and have sidestepped some of the introductions, I apologize.

About Tinned wire. Wire manufacturers originally began putting a tin plating on copper wire for solderability purposes. Tinned wire was adopted by providers to the marine industry for its corrosion resistant properties. Some brands have generated the myth that tinned copper is a marine thing, probably to justify a high product price. It is essentially UL 1015/1230 appliance wire. UL has added a standard (1426) using the BC-5W2 statement meaning 105C dry 75C wet and it has more stringent insulation resistance requirements. This is specifically a marine standard.

Tinned vs bare. Tinned resists corrosion. Bare not only corrodes quickly it wicks up the conductor under the insulation, I've seen wicking several feet under the insulation. Exposed tinned will oxidize however it wicks very slowly maybe an inch or so will need to be cut off. The real issue with corrosion that has wicked up under the insulation is the resistance the corrosion created, leading to lower voltage to the device, lower voltage will shorten the lifespan, and function of motors, not to mention generate heat on high amp loads.

Automotive wire is often not 105C, in many cases its not even printed in which case you have to assume 60C, 60C wire will, in load calculations, will result in larger AWG sizes, indermining any dollar savings.

Automotive wire is also not made to AWG (American Wire Gauge) the circular mil area of copper is less than AWG. SAE (Standard for Automotive Engineers) refers to wire sizes as not as AWG but as No. 16 or No. 10. (However most manufacturers print AWG, it's technically wrong) Marine engineers know this difference and account for it in their calculations, however most others do not, resulting in higher than calculated voltage drops.

The PVC insulation on tinned or bare, so long as its not exposed to the sun, chaffing or consistently exposed to solvents, which it is not designed for, will not rot. It will protect the conductors for decades.

Knowing this and in consideration of the excellent comments from Maine Sail tinned is worth the extra money. All brands listed have to meet stringent UL in-plant inspections, and all are very good. Some are made with the marine technician in mind and the manufacturer uses more expensive and more flexible compounds to ease installation, otherwise they are functionally the same. Thus shop the internet, you can find tinned marine rated wire at very good prices, inexpensive heat shrink terminals will make whatever job you are doing long-lasting and professional. Good Luck!