Help pls: Will this tester show me anything

[Bill Seal]

Originally Posted by Thumbs Up

I don't think that is a true (resistive) load tester. It uses some type of algorithm to do a simulated load test. Some people will use a dedicated windlass battery. Even a good battery bank can cause problems with electronic cut outs during engine cranking. This is a real load tester: https://www.amazon.com/OTC-3180-Batt...omotive&sr=1-5

I just picked up the identical tester from Harbor Freight for 18 bucks, and the 20% off even pays the sales tax. Amazon is getting like West Marine.

[Scubaseas]

Originally Posted by Bill Seal

I just picked up the identical tester from Harbor Freight for 18 bucks, and the 20% off even pays the sales tax. Amazon is getting like West Marine.

I don't think the Harbor Freight /Cen-tech is any where near the same quality as an OTC. I still have an OTC load tester that works fine and it's seen over 40 years hard service used multiple times a day. The switch went one time. The HF is definitely built to a price

[Lake-Effect]

Originally Posted by Scubaseas

I don't think the Harbor Freight /Cen-tech is any where near the same quality as an OTC. I still have an OTC load tester that works fine and it's seen over 40 years hard service used multiple times a day. The switch went one time. The HF is definitely built to a price

I have one similar. They are, basically: a voltmeter (with bridge rectifier), a chunk of heating wire, a toggle switch, a cut jumper-cable, and a steel box.

Of course some are better than others, particularly with regards to durability, but most of us only use them a few times a year. Also, the sort of person who knows when to use one probably knows how to fix it too. I replaced the switch in one belonging to a former boss. The switch is what goes first (a 20 A DPDT momentary toggle switching 100+ A )

[jbinbi]

A bit more of an update. Got one of the resistive testers like above link, 100A load you run for 10s. The test went as follows:

Panel V was 13.1 V, on tester dial about 13.4-5ish. Ran the load for 10s. V dropped in low to mid 12s. Even with the tester reading high, we are still talking about upper 11s to low 12s. Did both house batteries. Same results. I would think that this is OK numbers?

Then dropped the anchor. Figured we would parallel all 3 batteries. Since the seawind has 2 outboards, we can always start them by hand with no issue, so why not always add in the start battery.

V started at low 13s as we had solar on and engine running. Dropped 100' of chain, and picked it up. Lowest V we saw on the panel was 12.3.

Real test will be to turn off solar, go sail for an afternoon with fridge and autopilot, and at the end of the sail, try the anchor again with all 3 battery and engine running. Instead of V starting at 13.x we probably should be in the mid 12s as a start.

We checked connections from battery to windlass breaker, looks great. Did not check connections at the windlass as would have to take it apart and reseal it.

[Lake-Effect]

Originally Posted by jbinbi

A bit more of an update. Got one of the resistive testers like above link, 100A load you run for 10s. The test went as follows:

Panel V was 13.1 V, on tester dial about 13.4-5ish. Ran the load for 10s. V dropped in low to mid 12s. Even with the tester reading high, we are still talking about upper 11s to low 12s. Did both house batteries. Same results. I would think that this is OK numbers?

Then dropped the anchor. Figured we would parallel all 3 batteries. Since the seawind has 2 outboards, we can always start them by hand with no issue, so why not always add in the start battery.

V started at low 13s as we had solar on and engine running. Dropped 100' of chain, and picked it up. Lowest V we saw on the panel was 12.3.

Real test will be to turn off solar, go sail for an afternoon with fridge and autopilot, and at the end of the sail, try the anchor again with all 3 battery and engine running. Instead of V starting at 13.x we probably should be in the mid 12s as a start.

We checked connections from battery to windlass breaker, looks great. Did not check connections at the windlass as would have to take it apart and reseal it.

Good results so far. No need to open up the windlass; if it's pulling strongly, and (later) causes your battery voltage to sag enough to cause a reset, then the wiring to the windlass is all fine.