Help - What Is This A Picture Of - Fuses ?

[gary howe]

Hi all, I am working on a Hunter Horizon 23 (new to me) and have come across the items in the attached picture. I'm guessing they are fuses and fuse holder, either that or Rock from Rhyl. Can anyone confirm and recommend a suitable replacement ? Electrics actually seem to be working fine but these guys don't look healthy.
Regards
Gary

[Calif.Ted]

Yeah those are some old school 12 volt fuses like I had on my '63 Volkswagon. Only the one with wires attached appears to be in use, figure out what it powers and replace with whatever type of new fuseholder you prefer. But you can actually still get the fuses but the holder looks like toast anyway.
http://hellahd.com/index.php/default...ics-product-1/
I think the red ones are 16 amp, that's pretty big, refrigerator ?

[JPA Cate]

You might want to relocate the bus bar, it looks as if it is in a very wet location.

Ann

[BlackHeron]

Fuse holder. It's junk.

The wires are almost certainly beyond salvage as well.

Scrap it all out and start from scratch. If that actually still works it is a very low-draw item because anything more than a couple of watts through that mess would have nearly 100% voltage drop under load.

[PirateGuy]

Originally Posted by Calif.Ted

Yeah those are some old school 12 volt fuses like I had on my '63 Volkswagon. Only the one with wires attached appears to be in use, figure out what it powers and replace with whatever type of new fuseholder you prefer. But you can actually still get the fuses but the holder looks like toast anyway.
Hella HD :: Ceramic-Type Fuse
I think the red ones are 16 amp, that's pretty big, refrigerator ?

Those fuses were used up to at least 1971 - on my first car, a Superbeetle

[HankOnthewater]

Yes, the above posts are all correct: old type of automotive fuses, never seen them on boat. Got a box of spares if you like..... going cheap.
As Jim said, location has some moisture, and wiring would very suspect.

One fuse is not connected anyway. So you need to replace at least one. There is a large choice, with spade type of fuse being the most common one (on cars). If in a dry and protected place, they work on a boat as well.
These kind of fuses come in at least three different physical sizes; the ones in the photo are the most common ones (ATO) and fuse ratings of 1 Amp to 40 Amps are available in that size. The bigger size (maxi) is for larger currents ie 20 to 100 Amps, and the mini ones..... not sure what ratings they come in, many cars have these, but have not seen them on boats.... yet.

Of course you can go for glass fuses (available in many different sizes); in line fuseholders are very common for these. Most common size is 6.3 x 32 mm, but also to a lesser degree 5x20 mm.

BTW if you only replace one fuse, go for an inline fuse holder, also available for ATO type of spade fuses, most have a lid to make the unit if not water proof, at least splash proof.

Maybe check this out for more details: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Fuse_(automotive)

Lastly, you can replace that fuse with a circuit breaker, that is re-settable.

[Lancerbye]

These are German made fuses and are still available. I have these on my 10KW Panda generator which is a late 90s model. I would change them for the new automotive type with the rubber enclosure and cap.

[Scubaseas]

European ceramic fuse holder. Red fuse is 16amp, blue 25 amp, white 8 amp, yellow 5 amp. They tend to corrode where the conical head meets the fuse holder, Not made for boats.



Replace it with a water proof fuse block or a waterproof fuse holder which can be had at local auto parts store or marine stores. ATC and ATO are very popular styles. Buy some dielectric grease and lube the blades on the fuse and you will greatly reduce any future corrosion

[Clivevon]

Wikipedia says:
Silicone grease, sometimes called dielectric grease, is a waterproof grease made by combining a silicone oil with a thickener.......
As a sealant around electrical contacts
Silicone greases are electrically insulating and are often applied to electrical connectors, particularly those containing rubber gaskets, as a means of sealing and protecting the connector. In this context they are often referred to as dielectric grease.[8][9]

A common use of this type is in the high-voltage connection associated with gasoline-engine spark plugs, where grease is applied to the rubber boot of the plug wire to help it slide onto the ceramic insulator of the plug, to seal the rubber boot, and to prevent the rubber's adhesion to the ceramic. Such greases are formulated to withstand the high temperature generally associated with the areas in which spark plugs are located, and can be applied to contacts as well (because the contact pressure is sufficient to penetrate the grease film). Doing so on such high-pressure contact surfaces between different metals has the further advantage of sealing the contact area against electrolytes that might cause rapid deterioration of the metals by galvanic corrosion.[10]

Silicone grease can decompose to form an insulating layer at or next to switch contacts that experience arcing, and contamination can cause the contacts to prematurely fail.[11]

I've never used this stuff but am planning an upcoming boat electrical project. I would like to know if this dielectric grease should or should not be used on the electrical connections themselves, such as a ring terminal or a fuse blade? ?

[Pete7]

Gary, since you are in the UK, worth having a look at the 12v Planet website. They always deliver quickly and never had a problem with perhaps a dozen different orders from them.

They have some useful calculators for fuses and wire sizes as well on their website which is a useful.

https://www.12voltplanet.co.uk/fusin...rotection.html

Btw, do you know there is gold in them rocks from Rhyl, well the Great Orme actually Sadly your fuse holder doesn't.

[Scubaseas]

I would like to know if this dielectric grease should or should not be used on the electrical connections themselves, such as a ring terminal or a fuse blade? ?

Yes, you can apply to fuse blade and then insert greasy fuse into holder. I usually apply to ring terminasl after installed and tightened for no other reason than applying grease before assembly makes everything well, greasy.



https://www.permatex.com/products/lu...e-up-grease-4/

[svfinlandia]

Yes, those are old style fuses and were used in not only in Volkswagens but a lot of other German electronics. I had one in my first German build diesel heater.
Like everyone else so far, I suggest you replace them with modern fuses which you probably already have spares in stock, and in a waterproof case.

Al, S/V Finlandia

[Richv]

Originally Posted by gary howe

Hi all, I am working on a Hunter Horizon 23 (new to me) and have come across the items in the attached picture. I'm guessing they are fuses and fuse holder, either that or Rock from Rhyl. Can anyone confirm and recommend a suitable replacement ? Electrics actually seem to be working fine but these guys don't look healthy.
Regards
Gary

As several others have noted, it's a fuse and a spare. I would replace it with a good waterproof fuse holder. I've had very good luck with this type:

https://www.amazon.com/Water-resista...s%2C253&sr=8-7

When you wire it in, use heat-shrink connectors, or solder it and use adhesive lined heat shrink tubing to insulate the leads.

[IslandHopper]

Originally Posted by Richv

As several others have noted, it's a fuse and a spare. I would replace it with a good waterproof fuse holder. I've had very good luck with this type:

https://www.amazon.com/Water-resista...s%2C253&sr=8-7

When you wire it in, use heat-shrink connectors, or solder it and use adhesive lined heat shrink tubing to insulate the leads.

With all due respect i wouldn't have one of them anywhere near my boat, they are notorious for the poor/loose contact between the fuse and the holder causing arcing and/or high resistance. The interwebs are full of examples of these melting, they are no substitute for a good quality fuse holder.....