How to Crimp Little, Tiny Wires

[Maine Sail]

Originally Posted by goboatingnow

I would always use small uninsulated crimps and then heat shrink. Small crimps are readily available from electronic supplies

Dave

This is what I do. You will need a different crimp die but those are easily available from companies like Pro's Kit.

[senormechanico]

Does anybody really think that soldering tiny wires is going to be the end of boating civilization as we know it?

Vibration :
The vibration of all that mass of big herking crimp connectors is going to be way more devastating than the mass of some solder.

Poor solder technique:
Learn how to do it.

Next?

Steve

[FlyingCloud1937]

The proper way is to use the proper products and tools.

I Use amp, metripack, and TE.

They all have proper strain relief that crimps the insulation and the wire with on tool.

Check out PIDG Ring and Spade Tongue Terminals Product Feature Selector - TE
for ring terminals, and pin connectors.

Anything smaller than 26 is going to need mini d-sub tools

I have tools for all, as a matter of fact you can by one frame and then dies to fit the tool for all the various of products...it's worse than brass fittings for pipe and tubing.

But once set up it all becomes very easy.

Lloyd

[FlyingCloud1937]

Originally Posted by senormechanico

Does anybody really think that soldering tiny wires is going to be the end of boating civilization as we know it?

Vibration :
The vibration of all that mass of big herking crimp connectors is going to be way more devastating than the mass of some solder.

Poor solder technique:
Learn how to do it.

Next?

Steve

yes I do.

[lancelot9898]

It's been around 4 years since I've had to crimp some very small wires contained in a a Furuno GPS antenna cable, but I found that telephone wire "connectors" worked well. I'm not sure of the proper name to call them.

[FlyingCloud1937]

Originally Posted by lancelot9898

It's been around 4 years since I've had to crimp some very small wires contained in a a Furuno GPS antenna cable, but I found that telephone wire "connectors" worked well. I'm not sure of the proper name to call them.

Those that you speak of are by design to connect bell wire. In other words single strand, it adds no strain relief.

32-24 AWG stranded wire is but an gossamer's wing in strength, if you have no strain relief.

Then it's only a hope and a prayer.

Lloyd

[The Garbone]

Originally Posted by lancelot9898

It's been around 4 years since I've had to crimp some very small wires contained in a a Furuno GPS antenna cable, but I found that telephone wire "connectors" worked well. I'm not sure of the proper name to call them.

3m scotchlocks.

[jdives]

Now that I know what they are and where to get them I'll probably switch to the 3M scotchlocks (thanks for that bit of information!). Previously I did the double over trick. That said, I only use the 3M crimp connectors that have the heatshrink casing. (examples here and no it's not a posting I have anything to do with ) In addition to being impervious to the elements, the heatshrink adds a small measure (very small!) of strain relief.

-Jack

[skipmac]

Originally Posted by Maine Sail

Originally Posted by goboatingnow
I would always use small uninsulated crimps and then heat shrink. Small crimps are readily available from electronic supplies

Dave


This is what I do. You will need a different crimp die but those are easily available from companies like Pro's Kit.

Gentlemen,

I googled around a bit but didn't find anything that looked right to me. Any links, brand names, supplier or source for these?

Also, will these work trying to connect a 14 or 16 AWG to the 26-30 AWG leads coming off some of the lights I'm working on?

Thanks
Skip

[lancelot9898]

If memory serves me correct, those wires were single strand. There were about 6 of them that needed to be spliced back together after I cut the cable. I put liquid electric tape around all the splices and mounted them in some sort of hockey puck looking container which provided strain relief and moisture protection. This is after discussions with engineers at Furuno. (Make sure you understand how that cable is to cut. ) My warrenty is void by cutting the cable on the GPS portion of the display, but for 4 years that spliced cable has transmitted good data. Knock on wood.

[Lake-Effect]

Originally Posted by lancelot9898

If memory serves me correct, those wires were single strand. There were about 6 of them that needed to be spliced back together after I cut the cable. I put liquid electric tape around all the splices and mounted them in some sort of hockey puck looking container which provided strain relief and moisture protection. This is after discussions with engineers at Furuno. (Make sure you understand how that cable is to cut. ) My warrenty is void by cutting the cable on the GPS portion of the display, but for 4 years that spliced cable has transmitted good data. Knock on wood.

Were the "connectors" little white things with teeth inside, and you just stick the stripped wire inside and crunch them with pliers? I don't know the proper name but I've heard them called chicklets (after a brand of gum that comes as flat white pellets)

it sounds like you did a good job.

sr mechanico - of course solder continues to be used, especially on solder-type connectors, obviously. For small wires not carrying power, properly-made soldered connections with sufficient protection from environment and stress will be fine, as you point out.

My comments re ABYC & soldering were just to point out the spec for power-carrying connections. I should have stressed the power part.

[Lake-Effect]

Originally Posted by skipmac

I googled around a bit but didn't find anything that looked right to me. Any links, brand names, supplier or source for these?

Also, will these work trying to connect a 14 or 16 AWG to the 26-30 AWG leads coming off some of the lights I'm working on?

I think MS was referring to crimp terminals like these.

The problem with connecting 26 to 30 AWG wire to something considerably larger is that the thinner wire can easily get broken by the forces you need to exert when handling the thicker wire. Best idea here is to mount a small terminal strip to a bulkhead or inside a small box, and connect to that.

[lancelot9898]

You know I can't even remember if I had to strip the insulation off of those wires. These "connectors" had a circular look to them and I don't think they were white in color. I do remember that pliers were used to crimp them rather than my normal crimping tool.

[skipmac]

Originally Posted by Lake-Effect

I think MS was referring to crimp terminals like these.

The problem with connecting 26 to 30 AWG wire to something considerably larger is that the thinner wire can easily get broken by the forces you need to exert when handling the thicker wire. Best idea here is to mount a small terminal strip to a bulkhead or inside a small box, and connect to that.

Thanks. Followed the link but the smallest size I saw was for 22 AWG. What I'm running into is multi strand wire 26-30 AWG. Like MarkJ said, the individual wires are about hair size.

By the way, not interested in revisiting the old solder vs crimp debate. My experience over time, even with support and strain relieve, I have seen too many wires break at the end of the solder joint so I have made my decision in this regard.

Even non soldered joints I have had to repair a lot of connectors at the end of the strain relief, like lap top power cords. I'll bet 90% of the laptops I have owned I have had to repair the connector where the strain relief ended.

[Lake-Effect]

Originally Posted by skipmac

Thanks. Followed the link but the smallest size I saw was for 22 AWG. What I'm running into is multi strand wire 26-30 AWG. Like MarkJ said, the individual wires are about hair size.

What device is exposing these tiny wires to the outside world for connection? Or are you having to splice a cable you previously cut in order to run it through the boat?