I jumped the shunt and other bad things...

[Jim Cate]

Haven't look at those T handle switches, maybe I can take the handle off with it in the on position. Then I can just attach the solar to the load screw of the shunt, all the grounds from that go to that are in a bus bar that is another 3' of wire away.

If you can't disable the switch in the on position, you can simply put both leads to the switch on the same post. A simple way to be sure the circuit is never opened...

Jim

[jbinbi]

Originally Posted by Jim Cate

If you can't disable the switch in the on position, you can simply put both leads to the switch on the same post. A simple way to be sure the circuit is never opened...

Jim

Great idea!

Look at the pic in 1st post of the shunt and switch;-) Terminal is already bursting at the seams, can't fit any more of those large battery terminal lugs on the screw...

But I can easily put the solar wires to the bolt on the shunt, lots of room there, and was thinking of putting a jumper across the switch. Say 0 GA. So then the switch is shorted and working in either position.

[jbinbi]

Originally Posted by Kerry1

I don't know what your solar controller is, but mine came with a load terminal that is solid state switched on whenever the solar panel stops producing current after dark. Then the load terminal is switched off when the panel resumes producing current soon after daybreak. This is ideal for mounting an anchor light to that circuit. If you use an led there are no concerns of flattening battery, and one can be assured the anchor light is turned off and on appropriately whether you are there or not. Which is reassuring if your are swinging on a mooring with newcomers coming near to anchor. Or if your boat is nearest the navigation channel, or you often forget to switch on and off your anchor light manually.

I have the eco worthy 20A controllers. They do have the ability to run the load as a timer, or when it is day/night etc. So this is a very interesting idea to put your anchor light on this, turning it on or off from the controller!

I might look into this at a later time, I am having enough problems right now just wiring in the controller and panels. My anchor light is tied into my main panel, I would somehow have to get those wires down to the controller, and also figure a way that if the controller wasn't working a switch to turn it on or off. But this is going way off topic from this thread;-)

[SailFastTri]

Originally Posted by jbinbi

Frankly, thanks for responding. Also got a PM telling me that what Beneteau/Jenuea/Lagoon does by switching neg is not US code, and that shouldn't have this, should really take out switch, and put everything, including battery start wires on top side of shunt. But that is a bigger project than I want to do right now to just get solar power working.
snip

Actually if you research it, US code is bass ackwards on this issue: Electrons flow out of the negative battery terminal and return to the positive terminal.

Regardless, it doesn't matter. A circuit is a circuit. If you break the path close to the battery (on either side) everything is OFF and it's safe. The "hot" side is only that way because it's not common ground.

[Rorzech]

You don't need #8 if you're using 35 amps or less # 10 will handle that by code. Also those yellow crimp on terminals will fit nice on # 10 . get a bunch of shrink tubing, and a good pair of Stakon Crimpers, #10 is way easier to work with compared to #8. Don't Jump anything permanently , Only jump for testing purposes. Don't make your own rules for electrical or you'll end up in your dingy one day.