Ignition Mystery

[FecklessDolphin]

Sporadically, when I turn the key nothing happens, not even a click that I can hear. Every time, so far, I have been able to just turn the key a few more times and it will start. To address the problem I first thought it was related to some loose wires behind the panel (near where the key goes in) and I had these cleaned up by a marina handyman. I was convinced that had helped but then it happened again. I developed a theory that it was just happening when the batteries were low, but recently it did this when I was at 71% full and I have been able to start it when my batts are low (I have two Firfly batts). I have the boat in Tortola and am myself in Minneapolis. I was thinking of having a mechanic take a look at the back of that panel again since I have sailed 1500 miles since the last guy looked and maybe what he tightened go loose again. Any other thoughts?

[uncle stinkybob]

Sounds like the contacts inside the key switch are worn or corroded. replace switch.

[Island Time O25]

Try "hot wiring" directly, by-passing the switch. If it starts it is the switch.

[jamhass]

Other possibilities

Faulty start solenoid. Not all boats have them.
Corroded battery and or starter connections
Corroded ground
Faulty wiring harness connectors

[jamhass]

Other possibilities

Faulty start solenoid. Not all boats have them.
Corroded battery and or starter connections
Corroded ground
Faulty wiring harness connectors

[Privilege]

What sort of engine do you have...is it a Yanmar? There was a recent thread on this; http://www.cruisersforum.com/forums/...-179154-2.html

Having sought the assistance of others, I identified the problem as undersized wiring from the factory-supplied Yanmar panel causing a voltage drop sufficient to affect starting. This is my post from that thread and describes how I fixed my problem.

So having read this thread, I was motivated into action to address my sometimes starts/sometimes doesn't JH4. In the past, I've sometimes had to rev the starboard engine to increase the voltage before the port engine would start. I purchased a relay from a local car shop and installed it. The wiring took me 15 minutes and the install took me 30. First I disconnected the wire that runs from the Yanmar panel to the solenoid. It's easy to find, it comes straight from the wiring loom and is probably the only small wire on there. I connected it to the positive side of a piezo buzzer with the negative side of the buzzer going to ground. I wanted to be sure that the start key wiring was not the issue. You can get the same answer with a mutli-meter but I couldn't see the meter and turn the switch at the same time. All was well with the start key and the buzzer sounded when the key was turned.
I then wired the relay as per the diagram below. A very easy process...I turned the key and voila, success! The engine started first time, every time. It's such a relief to have this niggling problem sorted with a $5 fix. Thanks to sailorchic and everyone on the thread. You rock.

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[skipmac]

Since you have eliminated the connections to the back of the switch (assuming you had a decent and competent mechanic working on it) I would second recommendations already given.

1. Bad switch.
2. Problem on the starter end of the circuit.
a) bad connection or wiring to the starter solenoid (look at both engine side and power/battery side of the wiring).
b) bad starter solednoid

[montenido]

I had the same problem on my CSY 44 with a Perkins motor. I finally found the culprit to be a bad transmission neutral switch. The boat would think it was in gear, and therefore not turn over. Try jiggling the gear shift back and forth and see if that helps.

Good luck, Bill

[Stu Jackson]

You may have a fuse in the wire between the key switch and the solenoid. Usually the first culprit that few know about.

[FecklessDolphin]

The engine is a 3JH2E with 2800 hrs, I do not have a transmission neutral switch and it can be turned on in gear (never by me of course). I will try the advice given here and report back.

[ChasingSerenity]

Do you have a volt meter? The easiest way to diagnose a starter is to follow the voltage. You will most likely need two people, one to turn the key and the other to watch the volt meter.

It's usually best to start with the fuse. The fuse can be tested by testing continuity across the two terminals on the fuse using a volt meter. If it reads open or OL then the fuse is bad, if you see basically any numbers show up then the fuse is good. If your fuse is bad replace it, if it's good then it's time to test the starter.

To test the starter put the positive lead (red) from the volt meter on the cable the runs from the switch/starter relay to the starter solenoid and the negative lead on any bare metal surface on the starter or the engine. Make sure that you have nothing rating on/touching anything that will move, i.e. belts, drive shafts, pulleys. Now have some one turn the key and try to start the engine. If the volt meter reads around 12 volts when they are trying to start it and you dont hear a click then it is your starter solenoid. How ever if you see 12 volts and you do hear the solenoid click then it is you starter motor.

If you don't see voltage at the starter solenoid at all then by process of elimination it's the switch or the wiring.

Sorry for my potentially confusing explanation, if you have any questions at all feel free to ask.

I hope this helps.