Installing new light fixture with pigtails

[Rapanui]

I use adhesive lined, heatshrink, crimp but splices as well as in other configurations like rings and pin. Once you have crimped and heat shrunk it, the joint will last for ever and that end of the 2 wires is hermatically sealed. If as is often the case, the fitting wires are really small gauge, shrink a short length of heatshrink tubing on the joint end to bulk out the diameter to get a good seal and provide the wire with some strain relief.

[Smokeys Kitchen]

A corollary FWIW.

I recently encountered an issue when I ordered some replacement LED bulbs for my fixtures. It turned out the particular bulbs I got are polarity specific; they only worked in the fixtures where the positive was wired to the bottom of the fixture. They are standard e26 bases (screw in type) that I got from a company called Wattalight.com.

The company is very receptive to returns, but in this case I think I will just reverse the wiring since they are in Canada and it might cost half again as much for me to return them. The lights look good and they were about half price of Dr LED or Luna Sea, although I don't believe either of the latter two are polarity specific.

There may be more lights out there that are polarity specific (and not stated so on the website - the drawback to Wattalight), but if you are wiring the fixtures from scratch, it may be best to try to wire them all up with the positives in the middle location, but I have no idea if other lights might have a specificity in the opposite direction.

Just my 2 cents

Ron

[bcboomer]

All screw in and single contact bayonet fixtures should be wired so the centre contact is hot to reduce the chance of a short.