Inverter/Charger & Battery Issue

[Thesilversurfer]

Well...The boat was previous owned by an engineer/architect and the systems, maintenance and condition of the boat is meticulous throughout.

Based upon what I'm seeing/experiencing I am pretty confident the Heart "combi inverter/charger" is on the fritz.

I've never had any issues with the boat other than when I took delivery 4 years ago and the delivering marina didn't add water to the Rolls battery bank and they ultimately were damaged. Typical marina negligence as I've learned here in New York. I put in an 800Amp lifeline AGM bank (they are a client of mine so I get them wholesale) which (according to Xantrex) was the largest the inverter charger could handle.

It's definitely not the batteries, but I'm replacing them anyway (direct fit, exact same brand and size).

Replacing the Control panel and batteries is a super simple job....the new inverter/charger is virtually the same size (same brand, Xantrex), the control panel fits perfectly in the same place as the old Link 2000R and the ethernet cable and adapter allows the use of the old cable if I was too lazy to run the new one. Of course I will use the new cable.

The wiring in place is tinned and the gauge used far exceeds what is called for (the whole boat is built like this). Additionally the wiring layout for the inverter/charger is virtually the same so wiring should be super easy.

I'm installing all new battery temp sensors, et al for the new unit which is very simple.

I've already installed a Balmar battery monitor exclusively for the starting battery - which is overkill but is peace of mind.

The xantrex combox allows more control over the inverter/charger via a tablet/laptop and is a source of redundancy if the actual control panel ever fails.

I don't see any real complexity here whatsoever and expect to have the job done in one day - perfectly. The boat is a 2000 Beneteau 36CC, approx 1120 hours, and has very easy engine room and systems access.

I wasn't aware of the secondary charger and will explore that. Once she's squared away, I will be looking at a Balmar Alternator as a project for next Spring.

To be continued! Thank you all!

I appreciate everyone's counsel by the way.

[Nicholson58]

This really sounds like batteries starting to get dodgy. Any of them can fail prematurely or last 10 years. There may be one weak battery in the set. Try disconnecting them one by one.

[RLaird]

Envy your ability to replace everything!
I’d take a drive from Philly as my Lifelines are dying
I have the Heart system from ~’89.
I will be running the Equalize function to try and restore them.
When the Link is viewing the inv/chg and the battery switch is set to All the system would charge both house and start if designed properly, which seems likely.
Hedgy question but is the guy who did the starter the same guy who’s doing the electrical update?
If so, well, it’s hard to find good techs these days.
It should be nice having all fresh stuff.
I was, on another topic, told by a seasoned lead tech not to waste my money on LiPo. That it would cost me ~$20K and wouldn’t be worth it!
He recommended a wind gen and golf cart batteries.
I kinda liked that idea.
Then my cruiser buddy says Solar Panels first!
Oh well - Enjoy!

[Thesilversurfer]

Well...it was on my list to eventually do the job so I figured what the hell....We replaced the inverter/charger, control panel and proper wiring in about 4 hours....

next is the starting battery charger, xantrex combox for the xanbus control panel and a few wiring upgrades...

Once all is done I will remove the batteries and put the new ones in.

As I am new to cruising boats (my fourth year) I am unsure of the following:

If the inverter/charger is on shore power and is charging the house bank, I know the start battery is not being charged unless the dedicated starting battery charger is plugged in. HOWEVER...I have an "Over ride" switch (Big Red one) that connects/disconnects the starting battery from the "bank" in case the start battery dies, I can still start the motor.....I have always left the start battery in the "connected" (red switch) position when the boat is plugged in and charging the bank..I think that is what is causing all the issues....Thoughts? The only time I disconnect the start battery "switch" is when I shut off the motor and sail. Then I disconnect it to prevent it from being drained...

"...its always something..."
Roseann Rosannadanna

[RLaird]

Wish you had someone with an electric meter to trace thru the batteries with you! It can be a bit confusing
On shore power with the big red battery switch set to ALL you should be charging all them. You may have 1 for start and 2 for house depending on how the manufacturer or tech installed things.
The meter would ID which batteries are charged to what level if you let the house run down a bit.
Anyway, your process is correct to isolate the start battery when sailing (less motor) so that charge doesn’t deplete.
When on shore power set to All the two banks float at ~13.5 volts. My Lifelines have been abused so they don’t provide much useable amperage. Hopefully the Equalization will bring them back for this season!
Enjoy the new goodies!

[Nicholson58]

We started with Lifelines, replaced with Fireflies. Previous to these, some other lead-acid batteries exploded. Done with that chemistry. We switched to Blue Heron LiFePo last October. Life changing for cruisers. Installed these in Trinidad including the various reprogramming of charging devices. Life is good!

Less parasitic losses, power we get from any source goes to the batteries, completely. No crazy losses in the night.

[RLaird]

Bit off topic but yes! I’d love to install the alternator, isolator, controller and LiPos! The AGMs (3) are heavy as lead (appropriately) and in my PSC-31 causes a lisp errr list to the stbd side. Even golf cart batts would be lighter. Don’t know why the tech was down on them.

[Senojev]

Originally Posted by RLaird

Envy your ability to replace everything!
I’d take a drive from Philly as my Lifelines are dying
I have the Heart system from ~’89.
I will be running the Equalize function to try and restore them.
When the Link is viewing the inv/chg and the battery switch is set to All the system would charge both house and start if designed properly, which seems likely.
Hedgy question but is the guy who did the starter the same guy who’s doing the electrical update?
If so, well, it’s hard to find good techs these days.
It should be nice having all fresh stuff.
I was, on another topic, told by a seasoned lead tech not to waste my money on LiPo. That it would cost me ~$20K and wouldn’t be worth it!
He recommended a wind gen and golf cart batteries.
I kinda liked that idea.
Then my cruiser buddy says Solar Panels first!
Oh well - Enjoy!

Hate to say it but the seasoned lead tech should be put out to pasture. $20k is ridiculous as is a wind gen. GC are still valid for some but everyone cruising should have as much solar as possible.