Is there a standard or recommend 12v outlet/connector

[geoffr]

Here is how I'm dealing with changing times...

I am about the replace the "old" USB with a new USB.
The PowerPole allows for higher 12V Amperage and I have PowerPole to Cigarette adapters...

[CarinaPDX]

OK, that is a really nice looking solution. Where did you get it?

Greg

[geoffr]

The case, USB and Switch (for turning off USB) came from Amazon (search for 12V USB or 12V outlet panel and you'll find a bunch) . The PowerPole came from https://powerwerx.com/

[CarinaPDX]

Thanks. I hadn't known that there was a standard (formal or informal) for the round panels. The real test will be if a USB-C with PD4 panel is, or will be, available. The newer laptops and smart phones with USB-C often use PD4 chargers. Unfortunately the USB standards committee has a hard time with the concept of a standard so there are two versions, one with precision control of the output voltage by the consuming device; also, there are multiple wattages available, most commonly 60W and 100W. With a USB-C PD4 outlet a computer and/or phone could be charged directly without a power brick. [Edit: Actually it will require a power circuit built into the outlet.]

Greg

[CarinaPDX]

Oops - It was PD2 that is similar to QC3, not PD3. And the newest is PD3 and QC4, where the proprietary QC4 is finally compatible with PD3 (i.e the version numbers are off between the systems). PPS (Programmable Power Supply) is the variant of PD3 which can be precisely controlled by the device being charged. Being a new-ish spec there are a few devices that are supposed to be compatible but aren't. Fortunately the vendors of chargers usually provide a list of compatible devices. The latest Apple devices use USB-C PD3 for charging so no more proprietary nonsense from that direction; Samsung has been less consistent.

So, I found some PD3 panels that look like fitting with the others above. This one has PD3/30W plus two QC3/18W (max 30W combined). For the iPeople out there it works to fast charge iPhone 12's and iPad Pro's. For $16 that is cool. https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B092M1XS1J/ref=emc_b_5_i For those with 24V available a similar device but with QC4, and PD3 with 60W and PPS is available: https://smile.amazon.com/Lastest】-Ch...759147-4718406 (It would also work fine on 12V but just to 30W.)

My takeaway is that this is a format that is being supported with newer technologies and so is worth considering.

Greg

[jmh2002]

THANKS everyone, some useful info popping up in this thread

[David B]

Originally Posted by flightlead404

I’m looking to add some 12v DC outlets to my boat and replace some of those bloody awful cigar lighter style ones with something better. This is in addition to replacing a couple of the cigar lighter outlets with USB A and C outlets.

The guy on Fair Isle seems to like the XT60 connectors.

Is there anything like a standard (ha) or commonly used connector?

I want something I can panel mount and put in an outlet box.

I suggest with the lighter plug being the standard with pretty well anything you are likely to buy (spotlight, handheld VHF DC charger) that doesn't come with a USB connector, one needs to be pragmatic.

For me, I am leaving the 12V lighter outlets where they are, filling some with plug-in USB converters, and where I need decent current (airpump for Zodiac tender, and external charger inlets for various battery banks), I am installing 25A Anderson connectors.

[ozdigennaro]

Cigarette lighter connectors are sooo twentieth century and have very limited current capacity. I would never use one.
Anderson Power Pole are the answer. Up to 50 amp capacity.

[waterman46]

What's all the fuss? Our boat came with a couple cigarette lighter outlets contained behind good looking brushed aluminum hinged covers built into the cabinetry of each head compartment. They must be made of good materials since the boat is 50 years old and they all work fine. I've added a couple since I got the boat and they all still work also. Cigarette lighter outlets are designed to handle enough current to quickly heat the element red-hot, so I think they can handle enough current for most uses. I can plug anything in there like dive compressor, air compressor, coffee warmer, without having to buy and change the plug it came with.

If you were going to use an adapter (which you would have to make yourself) to go from the cigarette plug of an appliance to your new plug, what's the point?

Like the OP, I thought about changing to a different design, but it doesn't seem to be worth all the hassle to solve an imaginary problem.

[CarinaPDX]

The best cigarette lighter plugs and sockets are rated for 15A (of course after typing this someone will find an obscure product with higher rating). For 15A to 55A the Powerpole connectors would be a good solution. But neither of these is waterproof...

Greg