Is there a way to safely repair this wire?

[Jim Cate]

Originally Posted by jt11791

If your windlass is reversible, and I think the Lighthouses are, that cable is not a ground or a negative, it is simply one of two cables powering the motor where the polarity makes the motor run in one direction or the other. Do not use this as a ground!

As described the other end of this wire goes to the negative buss... and the negative side of the battery. How is this "not a negative"?

Jim

[GordMay]

A typical reversing windlass wiring diagram:

[FuneSF]

Thank you for the diagram. This is useful.

I will properly rewire the windlass once it is rebuilt. It is currently set up to only raise chain. (I just shipped the unit to Lighthouse Mfg yesterday and it weighs a shocking 90 pounds...)

In the meantime, I'm going to repair the removed insulation on the cable with liquid tape and then a few layers of heat seal.

[Jammer]

Originally Posted by FuneSF

If I covered the damaged section with a few layers of heat shrink cover, do you think that will safely cover the exposed section? I want to do this correctly. I feel that I'm going to end up running a new 20 foot wire. But, I figured I would ask this group on their opinion.

I would just put some tape over it rather than thread 20 feet of wire through a piece of heat shrink.

[sinnerman]

Originally Posted by GreenWave

I would do it in opposite order... Lquid Tape then self fusing tape.

Ditto.

I would do the same..

[MEC]

Your photo shows that the solder joint is "cold", so it will fracture without much difficulty.


The potential problem caused by a nick in the negative conductor jacket is corrosion of the conductor strands.


The simple and permanent solution is to remove the blue conductor, clean the black insulation with alcohol wipe around the scarfed cut in insulation. If you see that some corrosion has formed on the exposed conductor strands, remove it using a fine bristle, clean stainless steel brush, brushing along the strand lay.



Before spiral wrapping, fill the void created by the scarfed insulation with small pieces of tape. Fill the void until the surface is fare with undamaged insulation.


Spiral wrap over the black insulation using butyl or "coax seal" tape. Apply each turn of tape in a half lap. Start and end the wrapping 1" either side of the cut insulation. Carry the spiral wrapping over the patch, will make a uniform cover.



After wrapping, squeeze the tape with your fingers so the half laps are forced to blend into each other.


The external wrapping will restore waterproofing that the original, undamaged insulation provides to the conductor strands.

[thlamers]

In my experience Liquid Electrical Tape bonds completely to clean, vinyl insulated wire. Use at least three coats letting it shrink-dry between coats to make a good air and moisture seal. The solvents in the L.E.T. slightly melt the cable insulation insuring water exclusion and good physical attachment.

Secondary protection with waterproof shrink tube will add to the sealing and provide more robust physical protection. Electrical tape should only be used in emergency repairs due to its tendency to trap moisture between layers.

[flightlead404]

Originally Posted by CrispyCringle

Previous owners, gotta love em! What an absolutely devious crap way to tap a wire. Not even a good solder job.

Self sealing tape for the win.

At some point, all of us become a previous owner

[merrydolphin]

Originally Posted by GreenWave

I would do it in opposite order... Lquid Tape then self fusing tape.

Agree. The liquid tape will penetrate the uneven surface. Give it several thin coats. Then fusing tape and then liquid again to seal it down. That should last a loooog time.