Is there a way to safely repair this wire?

[FuneSF]

I thought that I found and repaired all of a prior owners electrical handiwork. But, I just found this one while I was removing my Lighthouse windlass to be rebuilt.

Some of the insulation from the negative windlass wire was removed and a wire from the foot switch was soldered to it. It was then covered with electrical tape.

I will properly rewire the foot switch and solenoid. But, the damaged negative wire is a long run of about 20 feet and I would like to avoid buying a new one. I could possible cut away the damaged section. But, I'm not sure I have enough slack in the wire to do that and then reattach to the windlass motor.

If I covered the damaged section with a few layers of heat shrink cover, do you think that will safely cover the exposed section? I want to do this correctly. I feel that I'm going to end up running a new 20 foot wire. But, I figured I would ask this group on their opinion.

Thanks

[Emmalina]

Heatshrink might be ok but it looks like a dry joint to me give it a pull see if it comes of ! Personally I would route that ground from somewhere else.

[Mrkva]

I always use self fusing tape for this kind of jobs and it never let me down.

[deblen]

Originally Posted by Mrkva

I always use self fusing tape for this kind of jobs and it never let me down.

Agree-I then cover the self fusing tape with Liquid Tape.
https://www.homedepot.ca/product/gar...jar/1000751619

[Putt-Putt]

The fact that you are going to get the windless rebuilt must mean that it's reliable operation is important.

If the conductor with the missing insulation is in a wet location, like the anchor rode locker and I didn't want to run a new one, I would do this.

Remove the conductor from the motor's connection and cut it off just ahead of the missing insulation. Strip the wire about an inch to assess its condition. If it's oxidized or damaged, cut off 6" more and strip. Continue this until the tinned copper is bright.

Remove the end connection from the other end of the conductor and all of the wire clamps along the length of the remaining conductor and move the wire towards the motor, including some slack.
Understanding that the original conductor was 20' long the new location of the end to which B- is to be connected is likely in a dry location. There you install a suitably sized buss bar and a new conductor to the B- source. Label it's purpose of course. No need to cover it, it's on the B-.

With a just rebuilt windless, I'd also do the same thing to the positive B+ conductor.

But first check to make sure the existing conductors are sized to deliver the full motor current with a voltage drop of less than 3 percent. If not I'd replace them both. Excessive voltage drop is unkind to motors. Could this be the reason for the rebuild?

[smac999]

disconnect the wire, heatshrink over top and put the wire back on

[GreenWave]

Originally Posted by deblen

Agree-I then cover the self fusing tape with Liquid Tape.
https://www.homedepot.ca/product/gar...jar/1000751619

I would do it in opposite order... Lquid Tape then self fusing tape.

[FuneSF]

Thank you for the replies.

I think I may give the fusing tape and liquid tape a try. Tough to find the space for another negative bus bar to reduce the 20 foot length of the wire, though. With the current set up there's never been a voltage drop issue affecting the windlass.

The Lighthouse windlass is about 25 years old and it is an amazing windlass. But, oil has started to leak in a few spots. That's why I'm going for the factory rebuild.

[OldGreyB]

You have stated in your post you have removed the soldered wire and connected correctly elsewhere.


"Is there a way to safely repair this wire?" Yes there is.

Cut back the existing insulation about 10mm each side to ensure there is no salt inducted corrosion already happening . If no visible degradation dress the cable external core to ensure no sharp solder pieces remain. Next clean the cores and 50mm of insulation each side with contact cleaner or isopropyl alcohol. Once all clean and dry there are two main options that provide permanent insulation repair without replacing the cable length:

1: 3M Scotch 23 Self amalgamating Tape wrapped as per manufactures instructions. Example link: https://au.rs-online.com/web/p/self-...-tapes/1921605

2: Adhesive lined heat shrink tubing. Cut to length so the tube is 50mm longer each side of the damage and shrink as per manufacture instructions. Example link: https://au.rs-online.com/web/p/heat-...tubing/2269089

[sailingharry]

This is the black wire, so it should be negative. Lots of copper in the system, especially on the negative side, is uninsulated. Starting with the terminals on both ends of this wire. Then going to whatever they connect to. There may be some negative bus bars running around the system without covers.
Insulation does two things.
The first, and most important, is it keeps things from shorting and causing Sparks and fires and such. This is a negative wire, that risk is exceptionally low. A piece of heat shrink will certainly solve that problem.
The other is corrosion. I suspect that this location is rather dry. The condition of that exposed solder joint is certainly indicative of that. Even if it is wet, the negative side tends to be fairly immune to that kind of corrosion.
I would slip one or two layers of heat shrink over it and call it done.

[NorthCoastJoe]

You could reverse the wire so the damaged end is a dry location and then do your splice or insulation repair.

I have used 3M +33 tape wrapping wires that are on a submerged well pump, 100+ feet down a well and no problems after 20 years. I like all the other sealing ideas too. Well pumps also use heat shrink down the well. All that water pressure and it stays dry.

[CrispyCringle]

Previous owners, gotta love em! What an absolutely devious crap way to tap a wire. Not even a good solder job.

Self sealing tape for the win.

[rwidman]

The cable is fine, the insulation is not. I think electrical tape would make a suitable repair. Wrap several turns in one direction, cut it and then wrap several turns in the other direction.

If it makes you feel better, use "liquid electrical tape" to fill the gap first and then use the "real" electrical tape over it as I described above.

This is 12 volts, not 600 so it's not like it is going to arc to anything.

[Jim Cate]

Seems like it is actually zero volts relative to ground, so arcing is not very likely, even left bare!

Jim

[jt11791]

If your windlass is reversible, and I think the Lighthouses are, that cable is not a ground or a negative, it is simply one of two cables powering the motor where the polarity makes the motor run in one direction or the other. Do not use this as a ground!