Kohler Generator LCO

[johnnyq]

I have a Kohler 9EOZD 60 HZ generator that I have had no end of trouble with. I am a great lakes sailor for the most part but have had the boat down to the Bahamas a few times. The unit is 10 years old and has never worked properly from day one. It only has 500 hours on it and is the most unreliable piece of equipment on the boat. Every 100 hours give or take the thing will quit and give me a LCO error code. This used to result in a the usual impeller check which was never the problem , coolant check same, hose check belts and the whole gammit with no resolution to the problem EXCEPT a new board every time. Im so tempted to replace it. Anything has to be more reliable than this garbage. Has anyone else had the same experience? If you have found the solution I would be very grateful for any information that gets it up and running for more than a couple of days. Service from Kohler has been very disappointing to say the least.

JohnnyQ
S/V StarIV

[skipperpete]

I have a 20 EFOZD and its on the 5th advanced digital control and 3rd stop solenoid at 2000 hours so at least you’re not the only one.
Also 2 sets of engine mounts, 2 exhaust elbows and a water pump">raw water pump. The circulating pump has a leak just starting. I found out that the generator likes to be very close to the start battery. Since eliminating the long cable run there have been no new controller failures or failed start sequences even though it seems to crank exactly the way it did before the battery re position.

[ericoh88]

JohnnyQ


LOC - Loss of Coolant. Have you tried cleaning the contacts for the coolant sensor and replacing a new sensor?

FYI I am using a Kohler 6EOD wired for 230v 50hz.


If comes to the worst, I would remove the electronic controller and go manual like the NL set up - sensors and relays only.


Eric

[johnnyq]

Great idea Eric. Im going down to the boat this morning and Ill give the contacts for the sensor some love. Alternatively, Ive heard I can bypass the whole shootin match to get it running until I get a new sensor if this is infact the issue.

[johnnyq]

what is the accronym NL?

[a64pilot]

Originally Posted by johnnyq

what is the accronym NL?

Northern Lights, another manufacturer.

I would remove the electronic controls myself. Especially if they are repeatedly going bad, even if I had to lose some protection.

Modern house heat pumps went through a period of circuit cards going bad, a couple of decades ago, once or twice a year it would cost a couple hundred bucks to replace the circuit card.

[ericoh88]

Originally Posted by johnnyq

Great idea Eric. Im going down to the boat this morning and Ill give the contacts for the sensor some love. Alternatively, Ive heard I can bypass the whole shootin match to get it running until I get a new sensor if this is infact the issue.

This LOC is a pressure sensor. Not sure how you can bypass this one unless you know the details of this pressure sensor.

If you decide to remove the electronic controller and need more information, let me know. boatdiesel is another great resources - it is a paid membership.

Eric

[johnnyq]

Thank you A64. I am familiar with the brand. I am thinking along those same lines. I will forgo a level of protection for a higher level of reliability. Any level of reliability for that matter. Sounds like these are fixes I can do on my own.

[johnnyq]

Sounds great Eric. Ill explore the site.

[ericoh88]

The pressure switch for my unit is GM30263.

https://www.partsfortechs.com/asapca...oducts_id=1315
https://www.seafarerstore.com/Kohler...itch_p_29.html

These are on my unit so you need to confirm if the part number is the same as yours.


Eric

[johnnyq]

Eric, thank you for all the assistance. The pic is invaluable. Now, I am still on the hunt for the switch in Canada. Can you believe Seafarer wanted $38 US which is over $50 Canadian for shipping. Thats a game changer for now

[johnnyq]

I tried to bypass the switch but no joy. Impeller is replaced, coolant checked, strainer clean, thru hull clear, any other suggestions?

[ericoh88]

Originally Posted by johnnyq

I tried to bypass the switch but no joy. Impeller is replaced, coolant checked, strainer clean, thru hull clear, any other suggestions?

If that unit is a pressure switch then I guess it must work like the oil sensor switch as well. The pressure switch is after the saltwater pump so the pressure should be anything from 10 psi to 40 psi. From boatdiesel, clark leighs talks about the installing a pressure meter which is a good idea to compare the readings when your lco alert comes on. He goes to even put the pressure gauge before raw water pump to isolate the problem. I think that is a great suggestion.



You did not mention about swapping to a new pressure sensor yet so I assume the parts have not arrived yet.



There are 2 possibility here:-


1. The pressure switch faulty from day 1 . So changing out the part could solve the problem - easy test.



2. The pressure switch is not faulty. Then this present another set of things to check off. I am simply listing items I would go through

- intake thru hull, clogged, parts, fouled,

- sea cock is faulty , not fully open even the lever is fully open.

- the hose may looks fine but the inner tube has collapsed. A visual check or simply just replace it.

- sea strainer is clogged, sea weed etc
- raw water pump, impeller (which you have replaced), could be air leak, worn out face plate, bad rubber gasket, (will seal well when engine is cold), seals (have to remove the whole unit),

- hose clamps , cracks on the hose allowing air to get in,
- some people replace the impeller pump with March pump (need to check the output and ensure the March pump is below water line as it cannot self prime)
- use a IR heat temp with laser to take the readings for your raw water pump to see what is the reading when LOC shows up. May be heat related.

- take out the heat exchanger for service/cleaning and do a pressure test
- same time take out the elbow for service and check for clogging. May be the back pressure from the elbow or heat exchanger is causing the LOC.



Good luck johnnyq

Eric

[johnnyq]

Eric, Hallelujah!!!, I changed the pressure switch you suggested and removed the by-pass. She sparked up and purred like a kitten. Thanks a ton for your diligent and thorough responses.