Marine Electrics Newbie Need Help Setting Up Shore Power

[rgleason]

Shorepower plug and cord are just one part of the equation.
1. Galvanic Isolator or Isolation Transformer (more expensive)
2. Proper grounding system, see manuf diagrams and ABYC.
3. ELCI/GFI AC Distribution Main breaker and Circuit Breakers to meet current ABYC standards

http://www.cruisersforum.com/forums/...ml#post2694669

[davenrino]

Originally Posted by rgleason

Shorepower plug and cord are just one part of the equation.
1. Galvanic Isolator or Isolation Transformer (more expensive)
2. Proper grounding system, see manuf diagrams and ABYC.
3. ELCI/GFI AC Distribution Main breaker and Circuit Breakers to meet current ABYC standards

http://www.cruisersforum.com/forums/...ml#post2694669

Thanks for the info. I ordered the CB box. Any suggestions for a galvanic Isolator?

Edit: Just ordered the Promarine.

[smac999]

Originally Posted by Tillsbury

You might (should) find that you can't connect to the marina power without an electrical certificate, and you can't get one of those without an electrician doing the work. What you can do is but the chargers and breakers and install those unwired. You could also run cable to where it needs to go. Beyond that, get a sparky to do it.

I wouldn't want to stay in a marina that didn't insist on electrical safety certificates for all boats, as your dodgy wiring can damage my boat.

I think NZ has marine electricians and laws. in north america is there is no such thing as marine electricians. and no laws on who can do work.

only our houses do.

[boatpoker]

Originally Posted by smac999

I think NZ has marine electricians and laws. in north america is there is no such thing as marine electricians. and no laws on who can do work.

only our houses do.

Correct, no laws however there are qualified Marine Electricians who carry ABYC Certification. I would not hire a "marine" electrician who was not ABYC Certified.

[smac999]

abyc is a few day course in a classroom going over rules and guildlines. I'm pretty sure we didn't even touch a wire, but it was a few years ago. and yes I have it.

by itself certainly doesn't make anyone qualified.

where I believe NZ has a proper multi year trades program for marine stuff.

[KRMS]

Originally Posted by Bleemus

Strongly consider getting a Smartplug instead of the Marineco plug. Attachment 177288

I concur with this suggestion. There is a good looking stainless steel inlet available.

I know this is a new installation but for others: I replaced my existing inlet and cable socket with these and was able to use the existing four fixing holes and just had slightly enlarge the main hole.

Really nicely engineered.

[boatpoker]

Originally Posted by smac999

abyc is a few day course in a classroom going over rules and guildlines. I'm pretty sure we didn't even touch a wire, but it was a few years ago. and yes I have it.

by itself certainly doesn't make anyone qualified.

where I believe NZ has a proper multi year trades program for marine stuff.

Yes a short 4 day class that is just a pre-exam re-cap of the most often misinterpretated or misunderstood parts of the Standard only. There is no way you are going to pass that exam without years of marine electrical experience behind you.

[davenrino]

Originally Posted by KRMS

I concur with this suggestion. There is a good looking stainless steel inlet available.

I know this is a new installation but for others: I replaced my existing inlet and cable socket with these and was able to use the existing four fixing holes and just had slightly enlarge the main hole.

Really nicely engineered.

I did order the smart plug.

[Lepke]

If you're ever going to liveaboard, I'd do 50 amp. I have a Sterling charger and very happy. It has settings for many types of batteries. Does a much better job than cheap chargers. MY lead/acid Dyno batteries go at least 8 years. Figure that into the cost of batteries and a charger.

[davenrino]

I ordered this one -

ProMariner 63140 ProNauticP Series 1240P 12-Volts 40-Amp Battery Charger

[boatpoker]

Originally Posted by davenrino

I ordered this one -

ProMariner 63140 ProNauticP Series 1240P 12-Volts 40-Amp Battery Charger

An excellent choice (just the Sterling under another name). Whether it's big enough or not depends on how big your banks are and how you use them.

[Nepidae]

First, what a project you have instore for yourself.

Second, and more importantly, are YOU an ABYC certified marine electrician? If not, you SHOULD hire someone who is. Have you ever heard of ESD? Electric Shock Drowning KILLS. This boils down to the boat NOT being safe in the environment it was built for. That makes the boat UNSAFE for you or anyone AROUND you. Electrifying a boat is NOT to be done by a HOME electrician. THAT person does NOT know the CODES necessary to do the marine job and don't take someone's word for it.

More than 1 person has taken the advice, no not a marine electrician but electricity is all the same (or something similar) and has NOT lived to regret it.

Third, once you have the right electrician, then YOU need to decide what you want to have electricity for. You mentioned a few things, but I can almost guarantee you that the list will grow so you need to have a view, down the river. Make room for expansion in the future.

Fourth, since I'm presuming you are not a CERTIFIED marine electrician, then don't worry about parts. The CERTIFIED marine electrician, who will do the work will know what to choose. AND when they ask for your input, your eyes will glass over. Quite often they will have a better idea, seeing the boat and talking to you, on site, of what you need, that the decision made then will be a better one than you will get anywhere else.

As an example the Marinco receptacle you chose should be replaced with a SmartPlug, no doubt, no question.

Fifth, you can't choose the quantity or type batteries for your house UNTIL you know what you want to power and for how long.

Sixth, your charger should also be an inverter or a separate inverter should be chosen. NOT every appliance or item you put in your boat will be 12V, so you will need to make allowances for 110V items. That means an inverter.

Seventh, when you have the right person to do the right job, make sure you spec an ELCI for the project. Presuming you will be moving your boat an ELCI will help when connecting to power in marinas.

The list goes on & on.

Eight, you will get power from your engines when you move the boat. That power SHOULD go to both your house and engine bank. When you are docked, the power will come from shore and will provide power your house bank. The reason for this is because if for any reason you lose shore power the batteries will kick in automatically. When the shore power problem is rectified, you will need to recharge your batteries.

There is more, much more. But your marine electrician will help you along the way.

The electrician can help you start small with an eye toward expansion.

IT IS REALLY, REALLY, REALLY IMPORTANT THAT YOU UNDERSTAND THE COMPLEXITY OF WHAT YOU ARE CONSIDERING DOING.

After having installed a house bank which consisted of 6-L16 AGM batteries, Balmar electrical components for charging, and an ELCI and Galvanic isolator, I will warn you, have a checkbook ready.

Contact me off list with any specific questions.

[davenrino]

Originally Posted by Nepidae

First, what a project you have instore for yourself.

Second, and more importantly, are YOU an ABYC certified marine electrician? If not, you SHOULD hire someone who is. Have you ever heard of ESD? Electric Shock Drowning KILLS. This boils down to the boat NOT being safe in the environment it was built for. That makes the boat UNSAFE for you or anyone AROUND you. Electrifying a boat is NOT to be done by a HOME electrician. THAT person does NOT know the CODES necessary to do the marine job and don't take someone's word for it.

More than 1 person has taken the advice, no not a marine electrician but electricity is all the same (or something similar) and has NOT lived to regret it.

Third, once you have the right electrician, then YOU need to decide what you want to have electricity for. You mentioned a few things, but I can almost guarantee you that the list will grow so you need to have a view, down the river. Make room for expansion in the future.

Fourth, since I'm presuming you are not a CERTIFIED marine electrician, then don't worry about parts. The CERTIFIED marine electrician, who will do the work will know what to choose. AND when they ask for your input, your eyes will glass over. Quite often they will have a better idea, seeing the boat and talking to you, on site, of what you need, that the decision made then will be a better one than you will get anywhere else.

As an example the Marinco receptacle you chose should be replaced with a SmartPlug, no doubt, no question.

Fifth, you can't choose the quantity or type batteries for your house UNTIL you know what you want to power and for how long.

Sixth, your charger should also be an inverter or a separate inverter should be chosen. NOT every appliance or item you put in your boat will be 12V, so you will need to make allowances for 110V items. That means an inverter.

Seventh, when you have the right person to do the right job, make sure you spec an ELCI for the project. Presuming you will be moving your boat an ELCI will help when connecting to power in marinas.

The list goes on & on.

Eight, you will get power from your engines when you move the boat. That power SHOULD go to both your house and engine bank. When you are docked, the power will come from shore and will provide power your house bank. The reason for this is because if for any reason you lose shore power the batteries will kick in automatically. When the shore power problem is rectified, you will need to recharge your batteries.

There is more, much more. But your marine electrician will help you along the way.

The electrician can help you start small with an eye toward expansion.

IT IS REALLY, REALLY, REALLY IMPORTANT THAT YOU UNDERSTAND THE COMPLEXITY OF WHAT YOU ARE CONSIDERING DOING.

After having installed a house bank which consisted of 6-L16 AGM batteries, Balmar electrical components for charging, and an ELCI and Galvanic isolator, I will warn you, have a checkbook ready.

Contact me off list with any specific questions.

Thank you for your concern and the offer of help.
Dave