Mis-wired 12VDC jack (let the smoke out)

[Q Xopa]

Originally Posted by john61ct

Seems at least among my vendors, yellow is not common in thicker sizes, above #6 anyway?

Red and black in big thick bank wiring would be pretty obvious, can't see anyone with a clue thinking that was AC

Yeh sure you can get away with a lot of stuff on your boat.

But if you want to be AYBC standards...

https://shop.pkys.com/Yellow-Battery...tor_c_766.html

Just sayin.

But of course do what you like.

[Q Xopa]

Originally Posted by basssears

I am using #6 yellow for negative on the solar build I'm doing for a cabin. I see on TinnedMarineWire.com they sell 4/0 in yellow if you really want it!

Never could find a color code for battery interconnects when running batteries in series, so went with black 2/0, just to confuse everything!

-- Bass

(P.S. In case anyone's taking my info too seriously, you should know when I first got my 1985 Toyota 4Runner I wired a bunch of things using white wire... for EVERYTHING... positive, negative, this circuit, that circuit... hey, I've got white wire, I'll use that!! Figured it would be too cruel to sell that mess - that even I don't understand now - to anyone else, so had to keep it and keep driving it)

I guess you could use 'Orange' for batt interconnects. Thats a mix of Red and Yellow isnt it. Or could put Red or Yellow heat shrink at the appropriate ends.

But seriously though Im sure this can get down to how OCD we are.

[Q Xopa]

Originally Posted by john61ct

Anyone know who makes the wire they sell?

Good stuff afaik is Pacer, EPM, Ancor and Berkshire. Cobra not so much.

Sorry for the Thread drift, but seeing the conversation has turned to wires. Has anyone been using Silicone insulated wires/ cables? It comes in 'ultra' flexible, tinned, high strand count. It has 200C temp rating.
The ebike and rc guys are onto it. It seems quite reasonablly priced too.

[Spot]

Originally Posted by Q Xopa

Sorry for the Thread drift, but seeing the conversation has turned to wires. Has anyone been using Silicone insulated wires/ cables? It comes in 'ultra' flexible, tinned, high strand count. It has 200C temp rating.
The ebike and rc guys are onto it. It seems quite reasonablly priced too.

Are they running it at 200C or just liking the fancy properties overall?

[Q Xopa]

Originally Posted by Spot

Are they running it at 200C or just liking the fancy properties overall?

Hopefully they are not running at 200C.
Like usual 'marine' wire rated at 105C, hopefully that doesnt mean it is normally operated at that temp.
Its just a rated Limit.
But IMHO higher Insulation temp resistance sounds better.

[Spot]

The extra C's might prevent a melt-through in an engine compartment or a soldering or heat-shrink tubing application accident.

I know when wires are bundled together in some applications, they are de-rated for retaining heat and spec'd with different insulation to allow them to 'slide' instead of 'rub' within the bundle. I am also happy that I will not have to deal with that on the boat.

Back to the panel question...1970's kit boat trailer sailor. Stick with a more homemade or period correct looking panel or upgrade? Old 'panel' was a small metal box, deep in lazarette, mismatched and broken switches, glass fuses, and sketchy joins (bell wire soldered to screws and to .250" spade tabs). I want the panel in the cabin with easy access from cockpit.

[john61ct]

Marine wire is specially UL rated. Besides temps, there is actual flame performance, the jacket must resist abrasion, acid / alkali, oils etc.

People playing with portable toys have less stringent needs

[Lake-Effect]

Originally Posted by Spot

Lake-Effect,
Did you have a DC panel already in the boat or did you add that too?

I am trying to decide whether to keep on keeping on with my homemade panel with fuses and toggle switches or order something pre-wired with breakers, switches, USB plug, voltmeter...

Our boat had a crude homemade 6-fuse, 6 toggle "panel" in the lazzerette. I found some inexpensive DC breakers at a surplus store and I made a spiffy new panel in smoked acrylic with 8 breakers, 6 illuminated load switches, a 12v cig lighter jack, and an expanded-range analog voltmeter.

Massive overkill for a trailer-sailor (together with the dimmable LED striplighting and the USB jacks) but it makes me happy. The battery is a single group 24 deep-cycle flooded type, and I have a 40 A automotive-type self-resetting thermal breaker right at the battery. All lights are now LED.

Given your description, I would be buying or making a new panel that mounts in the cabin.

[Spot]

Originally Posted by Lake-Effect

Our boat had a crude homemade 6-fuse, 6 toggle "panel" in the lazzerette. I found some inexpensive DC breakers at a surplus store and I made a spiffy new panel in smoked acrylic with 8 breakers, 6 illuminated load switches, a 12v cig lighter jack, and an expanded-range analog voltmeter.

Massive overkill for a trailer-sailor (together with the dimmable LED striplighting and the USB jacks) but it makes me happy. The battery is a single group 24 deep-cycle flooded type, and I have a 40 A automotive-type self-resetting thermal breaker right at the battery. All lights are now LED.

Given your description, I would be buying or making a new panel that mounts in the cabin.

Thanks L-E. I like what you did. I have LED's all the way around but used new bulbs in the OEM fixtures.

[Q Xopa]

Originally Posted by john61ct

Marine wire is specially UL rated. Besides temps, there is actual flame performance, the jacket must resist abrasion, acid / alkali, oils etc.

People playing with portable toys have less stringent needs

I dont know if Silicone wire has been tested by Underwritters Laboratories.
You saying it hasnt?
I know marine is not always at the forefront of current developments and guidelines.
Silicone seems to be taking over from many more traditional materials, hoses etc. I doubt its because it is inferior in any way. In fact the aircraft I work on have silicone coated hoses to make them fire proof for safety certification.
And you might be suprised to learn that RC industry is leading develpment of some areas. Not that Im involved but I know RC motor tech was used in the Solar Impulse because it was the most advanced in efficiency and weight etc.
But seeing youre telling us it is no good feel free to enlighten us as to exactly why.

[AndyEss]

As for color coding battery cables, I use colored electical tape. I haven't seen large gage battery cable in any color but black. For smaller cable if necessary, I try to use colored heat shrink instead of tape.
My boat was built in the mid80's, so all DC negative cabling is black.
In practice, I always use my DVM to check circuits, even if I am 100% sure I've turned off what I think the correct breaker is.
Spot - I would just buy a new pre-made control panel rather than roliing your own on this one. I have made some custom panels at CNC shops for my windturbine control panel, but it is not high density in terms of connections.
I don't think striving to look time period accurate for the age of your boat is worth it.

[john61ct]

Originally Posted by Q Xopa

But seeing youre telling us it is no good feel free to enlighten us as to exactly why.

I'm not expressing anything like that, and you should use whatever you like and accept the consequences.

For me I'll stick to known good standards as much as possible.

UL ratings are completely different according to the use case. If I can figure out how to comply with ABYC, and only use UL1426 wiring on boats, then I do not need to investigate how components used in other contexts compare.

[Spot]

Originally Posted by AndyEss

As for color coding battery cables, I use colored electical tape. I haven't seen large gage battery cable in any color but black. For smaller cable if necessary, I try to use colored heat shrink instead of tape.
My boat was built in the mid80's, so all DC negative cabling is black.
In practice, I always use my DVM to check circuits, even if I am 100% sure I've turned off what I think the correct breaker is.
Spot - I would just buy a new pre-made control panel rather than roliing your own on this one. I have made some custom panels at CNC shops for my windturbine control panel, but it is not high density in terms of connections.
I don't think striving to look time period accurate for the age of your boat is worth it.

Good stuff Andy, thanks. Yes, I was tempted by talk of 70's smoked acrylic and woodgrained images on the interweb (mercy, I still am...) but at the end of the day I'd have more in mail-order/ Amazon parts and a day spent designing and machining a panel versus a ready-made panel and a dry box to mount it. I am still working so free time is an issue.



Now, to heed your advice about a dedicated toolbox for the boat...

[AndyEss]

Just think of this boat as a stepping stone. Learn on it, and learn more on your next one if you stay sailing. I finally bought my dream boat at retirement - but always tried to do a lot and learn a lot on each step of the journey.
Good luck with your boat projects, Spot.
On good days, sailing is about as much fun as you can have with your clothes on. On bad days - its still good.

[captainwd40]

Don't feel bad we have all mis-wired something at one time or another (whether we'll admit it or not). I always wonder where the magical smoke goes when something quits working …… and if you could capture it and use it somewhere else to bring something back to life. Once is a while is a lesson learned …….. but if they start calling you sparky ….. you might wanna get some training.