MPPT solar controller: Morningstar Prostar v Tristar

[Junk Viking]

I took over an Eco-worthy 20A MPPT with my boat.

It blew a fuse, so I took it apart, replaced the fuse and kept it open for observation
Within a few hours it went up in flames and would have burned down the whole boat if I hadn't been there.

Never go cheap on chargers and converters - they handle high current energy and are a major fire risk.

[El Pinguino]

Originally Posted by GILow

Jill posted about them on her other thread. They are the Jaycar house brand. I don't want to bag Jaycar, they are good for lots of stuff but Jill had a lot of problems with the regulators.

Jill is (correctly I believe) therefore not keen on trying my Votronics regulator. Once bitten, twice shy. I, on the other hand, am an electronics nerd so I am very happy to play on the electronics fringe. I am currently building my own wind generator regulator, which is,pretty nerdy.

I've only had to take one bit of non-critical kit back to Jaycar... twice... got my money back the second time.

I dunno what this lady was complaining about... the other two hadn't exploded.. yet..
Exploding Christmas present leaves mum exploding with anger | Stuff.co.nz

[GILow]

Originally Posted by El Pinguino

I've only had to take one bit of non-critical kit back to Jaycar... twice... got my money back the second time.

I dunno what this lady was complaining about... the other two hadn't exploded.. yet..
Exploding Christmas present leaves mum exploding with anger | Stuff.co.nz

OMG! I love the logic from the Jaycar guy... There's nothing wrong with the product because only one of the three she purchased have actually blown up.

Yes, I do now feel a little more justified in my gentle condemnation of the Jaycar regulators in Jill's other thread. I hate thinking of myself as a techno-snob but I do think you get what you pay for with some of this stuff.


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[El Pinguino]

Off we go... down Offtopic Lane

Strange toy, 9 minutes run time then 3 1/2 hours recharging... that sounds like a fun day out.

Batts are simply described as 'AA' ... thought they would be 18650 Lithiums..... sure did behave like lithiums.......

[GILow]

Originally Posted by El Pinguino

Off we go... down Offtopic Lane

Strange toy, 9 minutes run time then 3 1/2 hours recharging... that sounds like a fun day out.

Batts are simply described as 'AA' ... thought they would be 18650 Lithiums..... sure did behave like lithiums.......

Hey, steady on there. In my day that kind of ratio of runtime to charge time was not too bad.

Geez El Ping, I didn't have you figured as the "Generation Me", I want it now type. :^)

Anywayz, I live in "off topic lane", at number one if you must know.

[ErikFinn]

Originally Posted by Junk Viking

I took over an Eco-worthy 20A MPPT with my boat.

It blew a fuse, so I took it apart, replaced the fuse and kept it open for observation
Within a few hours it went up in flames and would have burned down the whole boat if I hadn't been there.

Never go cheap on chargers and converters - they handle high current energy and are a major fire risk.

Thanks for the post Mr Viking. IMHO that was the most important bit of info on this thread. Yes really.

Ok a little edit as the above may have sounded a bit rough..
I think one important factor in a quality MPPT is that it should allow manually adjustable charge set points. Not all do, but bat manufacturers have different recommendations; not all apples are similar apples..
Another thing is I would not touch an MPPT made in China. Just my opinion. Taiwan I find acceptable.
Cheers
Erik

[Jill on Maya]

With the benefit of hindsight I chose a poor title for this thread. It soon veered off title.

For reasons listed in earlier post we opted for 2 x Victron 100/30 MPPTs for our 2 x 327 watt Sunpower (VoC 64.9V) panels.

Update for those interested. Victrons installed a few days ago and we have seen more amps in than we ever saw with the Powertech MP3735 (65/30 units). The Victron dongles are on back order so operating on default (quite acceptable) settings at the moment and without the luxury of comparing the input of the 2 panels. Noticeable difference is that whilst the Powertechs (made in China) felt warm to the touch the Victrons do not. Paperwork says the Victrons are "designed in Netherlands, made in India".

The Victron install instructions say "allow ventilation space". Compare this with the Morningstar instructions which specify (very firmly) install requires 150mm clear space above and below and 50mm each side of each unit for ventilation. This is a lot of bulkhead space.

Very happy to report that Jaycar gave full refund ($470) on the Powertechs. We had 5 failed units. We disconnected the last unit when we saw battery voltage rise to over 15V although bulk charge set at 14.4V. Costly to us in time and inconvenience. Yes on the positive, no fire or explosion. Lucky us. The experience reinforces wariness of Chinese made electrical stuff and the advantage of purchasing from Australian store. Had we purchased same quality units via internet there would have been no simple refund.

So at this point we are very happy (happy batteries makes happy boaters) with the Victrons. Colour (bright blue) bearable - just! (Why not a nice timber tone or grey like switchboards?)

[mitiempo]

Originally Posted by Jill on Maya

With the benefit of hindsight I chose a poor title for this thread. It soon veered off title.

For reasons listed in earlier post we opted for 2 x Victron 100/30 MPPTs for our 2 x 327 watt Sunpower (VoC 64.9V) panels.

Update for those interested. Victrons installed a few days ago and we have seen more amps in than we ever saw with the Powertech MP3735 (65/30 units). The Victron dongles are on back order so operating on default (quite acceptable) settings at the moment and without the luxury of comparing the input of the 2 panels. Noticeable difference is that whilst the Powertechs (made in China) felt warm to the touch the Victrons do not. Paperwork says the Victrons are "designed in Netherlands, made in India".

The Victron install instructions say "allow ventilation space". Compare this with the Morningstar instructions which specify (very firmly) install requires 150mm clear space above and below and 50mm each side of each unit for ventilation. This is a lot of bulkhead space.

Very happy to report that Jaycar gave full refund ($470) on the Powertechs. We had 5 failed units. We disconnected the last unit when we saw battery voltage rise to over 15V although bulk charge set at 14.4V. Costly to us in time and inconvenience. Yes on the positive, no fire or explosion. Lucky us. The experience reinforces wariness of Chinese made electrical stuff and the advantage of purchasing from Australian store. Had we purchased same quality units via internet there would have been no simple refund.

So at this point we are very happy (happy batteries makes happy boaters) with the Victrons. Colour (bright blue) bearable - just! (Why not a nice timber tone or grey like switchboards?)

Glad you're happy.

The bright blue is a Victron identifier - at a glance you can tell the brand.

[GILow]

Jill, it would be very helpful if you updated your other thread on the problems with the controller so that anyone searching also hears of your solution.


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[Jill on Maya]

Originally Posted by GILow

Jill, it would be very helpful if you updated your other thread on the problems with the controller so that anyone searching also hears of your solution.


Sent from my iPhone using Cruisers Sailing Forum

Will do. Thanks for suggestion. The Victrons are noticeably more efficient. Our batteries are topped up quickly every morning.

[Jill on Maya]

Originally Posted by mitiempo

Glad you're happy.

The bright blue is a Victron identifier - at a glance you can tell the brand.

Very happy with choice but small problem with static from controllers on AM radio. No problem on FM. One controller causes much more interference than the other. It is the one closest to the radio but as the controllers are fitted side by side the difference is only about 200 mm (8"). The radio is about 1.5 m (5') from the controllers. Appreciate any suggestions you may have. Ferrite choke comes to mind but before I look into that I thought you or other CF poster may know best fix.

[SO49]

Glad I found this thread. I've been struggling to find a solar controller for the 800 watts of solar that we're installing on our bimini. The PV voltage should be approx 60 volts with Max current of 14 amps.

Here's the issue I can't find an answer to.

We want to feed the output of the controller into our Victron Diode Battery Isolator so it can charge three battery banks simultaneously. After all, what's the point of 800 watts of solar if we still have to run the generator to charge the starting and bow thruster batteries.

The problem with using an isolator is that the Diode prevents the solar controller from seeing any voltage/current from the batteries. Most of the solar controllers I've studied require a minimum voltage at the battery side before they start charging - this is even true of solar controllers that use battery voltage sensing wires. Thus, as far as I can tell, using an isolator will prevent the solar controller from working.

How are the rest of you handling this? Are any of you using solar to charge multiple banks? How are you accomplishing that?

Thanks, Jeff

[mitiempo]

Originally Posted by SO49

Glad I found this thread. I've been struggling to find a solar controller for the 800 watts of solar that we're installing on our bimini. The PV voltage should be approx 60 volts with Max current of 14 amps.

Here's the issue I can't find an answer to.

We want to feed the output of the controller into our Victron Diode Battery Isolator so it can charge three battery banks simultaneously. After all, what's the point of 800 watts of solar if we still have to run the generator to charge the starting and bow thruster batteries.

The problem with using an isolator is that the Diode prevents the solar controller from seeing any voltage/current from the batteries. Most of the solar controllers I've studied require a minimum voltage at the battery side before they start charging - this is even true of solar controllers that use battery voltage sensing wires. Thus, as far as I can tell, using an isolator will prevent the solar controller from working.

How are the rest of you handling this? Are any of you using solar to charge multiple banks? How are you accomplishing that?

Thanks, Jeff

You have a Victron Argo correct? I have never installed one so no personal experience. Wouldn't be my first choice due to the failings of diode isolators from the past. Victron's link here https://www.victronenergy.com/upload...olators-EN.pdf
states in the section titled "Alternator energizes input" that some alternators need DC voltage to be present on the B+ to begin producing current. Based on this I think you are correct that the controller should not be connected to the Argo. They are really designed for alternators and not solar in any case.

I would wire the controller output directly to the house bank (or its bus) as that is the bank that needs it the most. The other batteries can be charged easily with the installation of 2 Victron Cyrix combiners sized for the expected charging current - of an equivalent product like a Blue Seas ACR. The Cyrix should be quite a bit less expensive than the Blue Seas ACR's.

[Jill on Maya]

Originally Posted by SO49

Glad I found this thread. I've been struggling to find a solar controller for the 800 watts of solar that we're installing on our bimini. The PV voltage should be approx 60 volts with Max current of 14 amps.

Here's the issue I can't find an answer to.

We want to feed the output of the controller into our Victron Diode Battery Isolator so it can charge three battery banks simultaneously. After all, what's the point of 800 watts of solar if we still have to run the generator to charge the starting and bow thruster batteries.

The problem with using an isolator is that the Diode prevents the solar controller from seeing any voltage/current from the batteries. Most of the solar controllers I've studied require a minimum voltage at the battery side before they start charging - this is even true of solar controllers that use battery voltage sensing wires. Thus, as far as I can tell, using an isolator will prevent the solar controller from working.

How are the rest of you handling this? Are any of you using solar to charge multiple banks? How are you accomplishing that?

Thanks, Jeff

We charge 2 x 12v battery banks from a 660W solar array (2 x 327W) by using a Xantrex Digital Echo-Charge. It's wired between the house bank and starter battery. It allows up to 15 amps (maximum) of the charging current to pass to the starter battery when that batttery's voltage is .5 to 1 volt less than the house bank. There may be other solutions but this works seamlessly. I don't know how it would work for charging a third battery.

[SO49]

Originally Posted by Jill on Maya

We charge 2 x 12v battery banks from a 660W solar array (2 x 327W) by using a Xantrex Digital Echo-Charge. It's wired between the house bank and starter battery. It allows up to 15 amps (maximum) of the charging current to pass to the starter battery when that batttery's voltage is .5 to 1 volt less than the house bank. There may be other solutions but this works seamlessly. I don't know how it would work for charging a third battery.

Thanks Jill - sounds like a great solution. I just read the manual on the Echo-Charger and I don't see any reason why I couldn't install two - one for each secondary battery bank.

Jeff