Orion dc-dc Charger setup

[HC43C]

I’m just trying to get opinions on weather or not this setup would work, I’ve been doing some research and being that my house bank is lithium ( battlenorn batteries) I was trying to figure a method to charge the house bank without causing damage to my alternator. I currently have a lead acid as a start battery, a 100amp alternator with an Incharge heart interface regulator. I am currently running a dual circuit plus battery switch and was curious if I could just hook up an Orion 30 amp dc to dc Charger to charge the lithium bank. I attached a really simple line drawing of what I’m thinking, if I’m way off base forgive me, I’m just trying to make this work, just got the boat and need to make it serviceable.

[smac999]

Yes that is exactly how to do it.

Get the new smart Bluetooth one. 3 stage charging and adjustable voltages. The older ones are single stage.

I have not seen the new ones yet. I tried a few months ago and they were not out yet.

I would buy 2 for. a 100a alt. You might be able to turn down the max charge one them. Not sure. To say 50a total or what ever you wanted. The mastervolt ones you can. 30a is small.

[HC43C]

Are you saying to put two DC-DC orion TRs in parallel, is there a better option than using the two you think? I did see higher output DC-DC chargers on the market. I have just completed my diagram for my system as well, I think that is. I am posting it hopefully to be analyzed and corrected if It has issues. Most of the equipment I own in the schematic but I can purchase additional equipment if necessary to make the system operate correctly. Thanks for all the help

[smac999]

yes run in parallel for 60a. It would be good to find out if them can be limited to less then 30a in case you want to run less then 60. I don't know if they can.

I have used the mastervolt mac 50a on 2 lithuim boats and it's great. they can be current limited. I put 2 on a boat and set them each around 35a for 70 total I think. but you also need the usb programer. I bet the 50a + usb gateway are way more $ then 2 victrons.

not sure why so many wires on the orion in your pic

missing lots of fuses and switches too

[Persistent]

why not buy a balmar or similar regulator that has temp compensation for battery and alternator as well as the ability to limit alt output. you would gain precise adjust-ability of the voltages as well.

[two-rocks]

No temp compensation needed for LiFePO4, nor is multi stage charging needed.

I have the Orion smart 30 amp, feeding from the agm start battery. Still playing with the settings, but does what it should.

[HC43C]

It just seems from what ive read and researched that a dc-dc charger is safest bet charginf from the AGM start bat. Perhaps im wrong, and im glad to be wrong, but its what ive gathered thus far.

[mikedefieslife]

Originally Posted by Persistent

why not buy a balmar or similar regulator that has temp compensation for battery and alternator as well as the ability to limit alt output. you would gain precise adjust-ability of the voltages as well.

Then doesn't he need an alternator setup for external regulation which isn't easy to find in some common engine fittings, and when out cruising (this is a cruising forum afterall) isn't easy to get done. I've asked about this in a few places, and precisely no-one knew of anyone or anywhere that could convert a standard Hitatchi alternator from a Yanmar 3GM to external regulation.

I use the Sterling B2B charger, but I don't really recommend it. It's a poor performer compared to the their Alternator to Battery charger. The Victon Orion Smart should be better still but has the drawback of being twice the cost.

[Persistent]

Originally Posted by two-rocks

No temp compensation needed for LiFePO4, nor is multi stage charging needed.

I have the Orion smart 30 amp, feeding from the agm start battery. Still playing with the settings, but does what it should.

lithium does not like the voltage to be held at bulk/absorption voltages after charge is full.

the agm battery he has still should have temp comp to not prematurely damage it.
the alternator should certainly have temp comp to keep it from burning up.

OP mentioned having a regulator "heart interface", so switching to another should not be a problem

[two-rocks]

A start battery needs no temperature compensation.

A dc-dc charger limits the current, the alternator will not need temperature compensation if sized properly.

The Orion smart dc-dc is very programmable.

[Maine Sail]

The Sterling Power BB1260 would be a good option, feature dedicated voltage sensing, and they are designed to handle a load dump. The Victron TR Smart are in very limited supply right now..

https://marinehowto.com/understandin...ttery-charger/

[HC43C]

Maine Sail, I already have the Orion TR Smart dc-dc, but I was reading the article about the sterling alternator protection device, is that still necessary when running alternator to FLA battery than to a dc-dc charger for the Li bank? Not 100 percent on what the alternator protection device does exactly.

[smac999]

Originally Posted by Maine Sail

The Sterling Power BB1260 would be a good option, feature dedicated voltage sensing, and they are designed to handle a load dump. The Victron TR Smart are in very limited supply right now..

https://marinehowto.com/understandin...ttery-charger/

The steerling is a pos. I installed one a few months back. It was like 80% Efficient. At near same input and output voltage levels. (Mid 13s). I was getting something like 60a Input and 47a output. This caused the heatshrink to get too hot to touch after 20 mins of charging. (Yes fan was running) Even in 40F weather with the hatch open, and it’s not in engine space. Then the heat protection would kick in and I would only get about 20a from it.

Also the worst programming device I have ever seen.

I ripped it out and put in a mastervolt mac 50 12v

It has no heatsink or fan. I had 50a In And 49a out with simular voltage levels. No heat. Super easy laptop programming.


The only advantage the steerling has is it can compensate current levels if the charging battery drops voltage. Ie if only the 40a engine charger was on. (House fed from inverter charger) The steerling would limit current to under 40a to maintain voltage ok On engine bank. . Where as the mastervolt will try to suck 50a and cycle on and off like an acr instead.

I’ve been wanting to test out the Orion smart . It was not available when I did the above job.

[YANDINA]

A 200 amp Lithium compatible Combiner 200-LI from Yandina will charge your Lithium battery as well as isolating it from your lead-acid starting battery. It will regulate the load on your alternator and cycle on and off as needed to allow cooling time. It has an optional high voltage limit of 14.2 volts if needed.