Please critique my wiring diagram.

[rgleason]

Sorry with regard to my comments about hybrid LFP bms cutoff, I did get to threads mixed up. Sorry.

[rgleason]

Some of my last three posts have been removed by the mods. Thank you a64pilot!
Please disregard post #13, not completely applicable.

I am in agreement with waterman and mitiempo statements below/above.
I personally would prefer connection of the Alternator B+ direct to a Battery Bank rather than the 3-way "C" common post. Why?

1. Alternator always has the battery bank as a load and will not be cut off causing voltage spikes and transients.
2. The DC Panel and Nav equipment is protected from alternator transients and spikes by the battery.
3. The downside is when the battery bank fails completely, you might have to rewire the alternator B+ wire to the other battery bank and move some regulator sensors (assuming an external regulator is being used).
4. I do think I would want to wire a Transient Voltage Supressor as backup. and to level out transients and further protect the DC Panel and electronics, I intend to use Littelfuse (2) $3 TVS diodes. SLD15U-017 - SLD Series $2.98 Here is a good writeup This looks like an easy wiring diagram. How to Build a Transient Voltage Suppressor (TVS) Circuit. Although perhaps using the Balmar Spike Ground Protector for $29 would be just as good, though more expensive

Re #3 of course with the OP's ACR the alternator might work fine charging the second bank, if the battery the alt is connecte to is just dead and not shorted.

[mitiempo]

Originally Posted by rgleason

Some of my last three posts have been removed by the mods. Thank you a64pilot!
Please disregard post #13, not completely applicable.

I am in agreement with waterman and mitiempo statements below/above.
I personally would prefer connection of the Alternator B+ direct to a Battery Bank rather than the 3-way "C" common post. Why?

1. Alternator always has the battery bank as a load and will not be cut off causing voltage spikes and transients.
2. The DC Panel and Nav equipment is protected from alternator transients and spikes by the battery.
3. The downside is when the battery bank fails completely, you might have to rewire the alternator B+ wire to the other battery bank and move some regulator sensors (assuming an external regulator is being used).
4. I do think I would want to wire a Transient Voltage Supressor as backup. and to level out transients and further protect the DC Panel and electronics, I intend to use Littelfuse (2) $3 TVS diodes. SLD15U-017 - SLD Series $2.98 Here is a good writeup This looks like an easy wiring diagram. How to Build a Transient Voltage Suppressor (TVS) Circuit. Although perhaps using the Balmar Spike Ground Protector for $29 would be just as good, though more expensive

Re #3 of course with the OP's ACR the alternator might work fine charging the second bank, if the battery the alt is connecte to is just dead and not shorted.

very over complicated - not necessary.

[er9]

Originally Posted by mitiempo

The last 3 posts by rgleason do not seem to relate to this thread at all.

I would wire it differently.

There should be a positive charge bus. All charge sources go to this bus - alternator, Raritan charger, any future sources such as solar. The house bank positive goes to this bus. From this bus a wire goes to position #1 on main switch. Another wire from this bus goes to the ACR and the other side to the start bank.

Start bank positive to #2 on the main switch.

Common on main switch wired to both starter and distribution panel.

No worry about the alternator at all as it is connected to the house bank at all times.

Appropriate fusing of course.

great, thanks thats what i have.

[er9]

Originally Posted by rgleason

Some of my last three posts have been removed by the mods. Thank you a64pilot!
Please disregard post #13, not completely applicable.

I am in agreement with waterman and mitiempo statements below/above.
I personally would prefer connection of the Alternator B+ direct to a Battery Bank rather than the 3-way "C" common post. Why?

1. Alternator always has the battery bank as a load and will not be cut off causing voltage spikes and transients.
2. The DC Panel and Nav equipment is protected from alternator transients and spikes by the battery.
3. The downside is when the battery bank fails completely, you might have to rewire the alternator B+ wire to the other battery bank and move some regulator sensors (assuming an external regulator is being used).
4. I do think I would want to wire a Transient Voltage Supressor as backup. and to level out transients and further protect the DC Panel and electronics, I intend to use Littelfuse (2) $3 TVS diodes. SLD15U-017 - SLD Series $2.98 Here is a good writeup This looks like an easy wiring diagram. How to Build a Transient Voltage Suppressor (TVS) Circuit. Although perhaps using the Balmar Spike Ground Protector for $29 would be just as good, though more expensive

Re #3 of course with the OP's ACR the alternator might work fine charging the second bank, if the battery the alt is connecte to is just dead and not shorted.

in my wiring upgrade planned for next season each battery bank will have an isolation switch installed between the batteries and loads so if a bank went bad, i could simply turn it off and isolate it 100%

[mitiempo]

Originally Posted by er9

in my wiring upgrade planned for next season each battery bank will have an isolation switch installed between the batteries and loads so if a bank went bad, i could simply turn it off and isolate it 100%

Makes sense. I have always disliked the 1/2/both/off switch. In my case I have 2 simple on/off switches - Blue Seas 6006. One labeled start and the other house. Never made sense to me to be at anchor for however long with power going to a starter.

[rgleason]

Originally Posted by er9

in my wiring upgrade planned for next season each battery bank will have an isolation switch installed between the batteries and loads so if a bank went bad, i could simply turn it off and isolate it 100%

Still using the "Upgraded Diagram?" with the 3-way?
https://www.cruisersforum.com/forums...ml#post3269398
I understand about the positive bus connecting all charge sources and the two battery banks (with isolation sw)

Mitiemp wrote: "No worry about the alternator at all as it is connected to the house bank at all times."

With an external regulator (Balmar) with voltage sensors that the manuf wants attached to the battery's +, and Battery temperature (which needs to be attached to a battery), how would you suggest these be wired?


Mitiemp wrote: "very over complicated - not necessary."
Wiring two diodes is complicated?

[rgleason]

MiTiempo preferred configuration:

No main 3-way switch.
Positive charge bus to Isolation Switch #1 then to the starter and DC Panel.

• All charge sources go to this bus - alternator, Raritan charger, any future sources such as solar.
• House bank positive goes to this bus.
• From the bus to the ACR and the other side to the Start bank.

Start bank positive to Isolation Switch #2 then to the starter and DC Panel.
No worry about the alternator at all as it is connected to the house bank at all times.
Appropriate fusing of course.

[mitiempo]

Originally Posted by rgleason

Positive charge bus to Isolation Switch #1 then to the starter and DC Panel.


Start bank positive to Isolation Switch #2 then to the starter and DC Panel.
No worry about the alternator at all as it is connected to the house bank at all times.

That is not what I posted.

The above has each battery going to both the distribution panel and starter.

One battery - the start battery - goes to a switch and then to the starter.

The house bank goes from the charge bus to the other switch and then to the distribution panel.

2 separate sub systems connected through the ACR only.

[mitiempo]

Originally Posted by rgleason

Mitiempo wrote: "No worry about the alternator at all as it is connected to the house bank at all times."

With an external regulator (Balmar) with voltage sensors that the manuf wants attached to the battery's +, and Battery temperature (which needs to be attached to a battery), how would you suggest these be wired?


Mitiemp wrote: "very over complicated - not necessary."
Wiring two diodes is complicated?

If you have a Balmar or similar controller you wire the sensors as designed - voltage sense to house positive and temp to house negative.

As far as diodes, anything not necessary that is added increases risk of bad connections and does over-complicate the system. The simpler the better.

[rgleason]

Mitiempo:

The way you wrote it sounded like they were joined together. Thanks, I am learning slowly.

Revised - Is this as intended now?

No main 3-way switch.

1. Start bank positive to Isolation Switch #2 then to the starter only.
2. Positive charge bus to Isolation Switch #1 then to DC Panel.
   • All charge sources go to this bus - alternator, Raritan charger, any future sources such as solar.
   • House bank positive goes to the charge bus.
   • From the charge bus to the ACR and the other side to the Start bank to charge the start battery.
3. Two separate sub systems connected through the ACR only.
4. No worry about the alternator at all as it is connected to the house bank at all times.
5. Appropriate fusing of course.
6. If you have a Balmar or similar controller you wire the sensors as designed - voltage sense to house positive and temp to house negative.
7. As far as diodes, anything not necessary that is added increases risk of bad connections and does over-complicate the system. The simpler the better.

Mitiempo, thank you for your help! Much appreciated. It does seem much more simple.

[mitiempo]

Originally Posted by rgleason

Mitiempo:

The way you wrote it sounded like they were joined together. Thanks, I am learning slowly.

Revised - Is this as intended now?

No main 3-way switch.

1. Start bank positive to Isolation Switch #2 then to the starter only.
2. Positive charge bus to Isolation Switch #1 then to DC Panel.
   • All charge sources go to this bus - alternator, Raritan charger, any future sources such as solar.
   • House bank positive goes to the charge bus.
   • From the charge bus to the ACR and the other side to the Start bank to charge the start battery.
3. Two separate sub systems connected through the ACR only.
4. No worry about the alternator at all as it is connected to the house bank at all times.
5. Appropriate fusing of course.
6. If you have a Balmar or similar controller you wire the sensors as designed - voltage sense to house positive and temp to house negative.
7. As far as diodes, anything not necessary that is added increases risk of bad connections and does over-complicate the system. The simpler the better.

Mitiempo, thank you for your help! Much appreciated. It does seem much more simple.

That's correct.

You're welcome.

[er9]

Originally Posted by rgleason

Mitiempo:

The way you wrote it sounded like they were joined together. Thanks, I am learning slowly.

Revised - Is this as intended now?

No main 3-way switch.

1. Start bank positive to Isolation Switch #2 then to the starter only.
2. Positive charge bus to Isolation Switch #1 then to DC Panel.
   • All charge sources go to this bus - alternator, Raritan charger, any future sources such as solar.
   • House bank positive goes to the charge bus.
   • From the charge bus to the ACR and the other side to the Start bank to charge the start battery.
3. Two separate sub systems connected through the ACR only.
4. No worry about the alternator at all as it is connected to the house bank at all times.
5. Appropriate fusing of course.
6. If you have a Balmar or similar controller you wire the sensors as designed - voltage sense to house positive and temp to house negative.
7. As far as diodes, anything not necessary that is added increases risk of bad connections and does over-complicate the system. The simpler the better.

Mitiempo, thank you for your help! Much appreciated. It does seem much more simple.

My updated diagram in post #5 is set up basically as mtiempo describes in his recommendation. I plan to use a 1,2 OFF switch with no 'BOTH' option. When I get to the boat all I will have to do is turn the switch to #1 position, which will be wired to the most used house bank, and then just turn it off when I leave. The ACR will keep both banks charged. #2 reserve bank will only be used in an emergency if bank #1 dies.

[mitiempo]

Originally Posted by er9

My updated diagram in post #5 is set up basically as mtiempo describes in his recommendation. I plan to use a 1,2 OFF switch with no 'BOTH' option. When I get to the boat all I will have to do is turn the switch to #1 position, which will be wired to the most used house bank, and then just turn it off when I leave. The ACR will keep both banks charged. #2 reserve bank will only be used in an emergency if bank #1 dies.

Makes sense except for my preference of 2 on/off switches instead of the 1/2/both (or not both).

Your choice leaves the engine circuit energized at all times unless switched to the off position.

[rgleason]

Originally Posted by er9

My updated diagram in post #5 is set up basically as mtiempo describes in his recommendation. I plan to use a 1,2 OFF switch with no 'BOTH' option. When I get to the boat all I will have to do is turn the switch to #1 position, which will be wired to the most used house bank, and then just turn it off when I leave. The ACR will keep both banks charged. #2 reserve bank will only be used in an emergency if bank #1 dies.

@mitiempo
In your preferred configuration would it be possible to have an Emergency Switch between the Starter and the Control Panel for use in the event that one of the banks fails? IE:
House Bank --- I.Switch --- DC Panel --- Emergency Switch --- Starter --- I.Switch --- Reserve/Start Bank

@er9
Much of your post #5 diagram is similar to mitiempo preferred diagram:
1. All charge devices go to a charge bus connected to the house bank
2. Reserve/start bank is charged by the ACR.

but I believe there are some differences in configuration and operation:
1. Both the Starter and the DC Panel are connected together on the 3-way common "C" post rather than being separated and connected to the batteries.
2. The starter is not directly connected to the Reserve/Start bank (with an Isolation Switch in between).
3. DC Distribution Panel is not directly connected to the House Battery (with an Isolation Switch in between).

One difference in operation for Mitiempo's preferred configuration is that the starter (which may cause voltage transients during starting) uses the reserve/start battery exclusively, meanwhile the DC panel is connected to the House battery, so equipment will not be affected during start of the engine.

In the updated e9 diagram, both the DC control panel and starter can be easily connected to either battery bank (Reserve/start or House).