Please critique my wiring diagram.

[Bycrick]

A general comment on Transient Voltage Suppression. If used, the idea is to mount it as close to the protected device as reasonably possible.

With a few exceptions, these devices are, or can be, sacrificial. Most of the time, when they’ve protected something by "absorbing" the energy, they’ll either open up, or short out and then open up. That’s why the Balmar unit has a fuse.

The implication of this is you may go to a lot of work to install TVS, but you have to check it as part of your normal maintenance work. Otherwise, the TVS can fail and you’ll never know. So it needs to be accessible, easy to test and easy to replace.

[er9]

Originally Posted by mitiempo

Makes sense except for my preference of 2 on/off switches instead of the 1/2/both (or not both).

Your choice leaves the engine circuit energized at all times unless switched to the off position.

yes good point. its funny i forgot about that because i dont have a keyed ignition, only a push button. when the switch is 'on' anyone can jump aboard my boat, start it and drive it away. i dont generally leave the power on but one never knows. that will probably be added in next years electrical overhaul but thanks for bringing that up. i wasn't thinking about it.

[rgleason]

Originally Posted by er9

yes good point. its funny i forgot about that because i dont have a keyed ignition, only a push button. when the switch is 'on' anyone can jump aboard my boat, start it and drive it away. i dont generally leave the power but one never knows. that will probably be added in next years electrical overhaul but thanks for bringing that up. i wasn't thinking about it.

Our Yanmar is also push button from the cockpit, however we always turn the 3-way to off, so it is not energized. As a result of the Yanmar installation, I had to separate the bilge pump and masthead mooring light to a small 6 position panel directly connected to the House battery which is normal. Our previous Westerbeke had a key and we would just leave the panel on, which I guess was not good practice.

[er9]

Originally Posted by rgleason

@mitiempo
In your preferred configuration would it be possible to have an Emergency Switch between the Starter and the Control Panel for use in the event that one of the banks fails? IE:
House Bank --- I.Switch --- DC Panel --- Emergency Switch --- Starter --- I.Switch --- Reserve/Start Bank

@er9
Much of your post #5 diagram is similar to mitiempo preferred diagram:
1. All charge devices go to a charge bus connected to the house bank
2. Reserve/start bank is charged by the ACR.

but I believe there are some differences in configuration and operation:
1. Both the Starter and the DC Panel are connected together on the 3-way common "C" post rather than being separated and connected to the batteries.

Correct, just a personal preference.

2. The starter is not directly connected to the Reserve/Start bank (with an Isolation Switch in between).

Yes because i prefer to have a RESERVE bank thats good to go and 100% charged and ready for emergencies only. I think of it as an emergency bank. my house bank will handle all start and house loads. i admit though right now my house bank is quite small but when i do my electrical upgrade next year my house bank will become (6X) T-105 Trojans making a 675 Ah bank at 12 volts. i personally prefer the simplicity of the 1,2,OFF switch with all loads passing through the 'C' common switch. that being said i will be adding an isolation switch in the reserve line as well as the house line when i do my major upgrade next season.

3. DC Distribution Panel is not directly connected to the House Battery (with an Isolation Switch in between).

Correct. i will add an isolation switch between the house bank and the + bus bar when i do my major upgrade. this wiring diagram is only temporary for the reasons i mentioned in my first post so technically incomplete.

One difference in operation for Mitiempo's preferred configuration is that the starter (which may cause voltage transients during starting) uses the reserve/start battery exclusively, meanwhile the DC panel is connected to the House battery, so equipment will not be affected during start of the engine.

MaineSail did testing on this and the takeaway i got was if your house bank is sufficiently large and wired properly this is a non-issue.

In the updated e9 diagram, both the DC control panel and starter can be easily connected to either battery bank (Reserve/start or House).

lets see if this will post without deleting...

[rgleason]

Thanks. Ep9 wrote

"MaineSail did testing on this and the takeaway i got was if your house bank is sufficiently large and wired properly this is a non-issue. "

We have similar to your 3-way configuration right now w/o the isolation switches and are starting using the house bank with absolutely no problems (2) Trojan T-105 6V in series for 215ah

Not sure we can do that if we change to lifepo4 as the bms may not be designed for starter loads.

[mitiempo]

poster by er9:

i personally prefer the simplicity of the 1,2,OFF switch with all loads passing through the 'C' common switch. that being said i will be adding an isolation switch in the reserve line as well as the house line when i do my major upgrade next season.

Not really simplicity if you are adding isolation switches in both house and reserve wiring runs.

With my preference you have 2 simple switches.

With your plan you will have that plus a 1/2/off switch.

I prefer a dedicated start battery as opposed to a "reserve" battery that is virtually never used. With a dedicated start it is used often enough that you know it is in good shape. A reserve battery is ignored until needed.

[mitiempo]

posted by rgleason


@mitiempo
In your preferred configuration would it be possible to have an Emergency Switch between the Starter and the Control Panel for use in the event that one of the banks fails? IE:
House Bank --- I.Switch --- DC Panel --- Emergency Switch --- Starter --- I.Switch --- Reserve/Start Bank

Easy to do and a good idea. Wire so you are not combining banks though.

[danielhwolf]

You may find this article useful, I did.

https://marinehowto.com/1-2-both-bat...onsiderations/