Potting epoxy for bilge pump connections

[BAD ORCA]

Originally Posted by boatpoker

Thanks, I've never heard of this product ... will check it out.

The FTZ MilSpec tubing is really good. I dont know what the adhesive is but it seems to stick extremely well and the tubing is really thick. Thats my first choice and the Ancor epoxy lined tubing is also very good. My second choice when they are out of the FTZ tubing.

[pcmm]

Originally Posted by BAD ORCA

https://shop.sailboatowners.com/cat.php?9805

I suspect that may just be "marketing wank" on sailboat owners.com's part as ancor in their data sheet make no mention at all of the adhesive on this product being epoxy!

[BAD ORCA]

Originally Posted by pcmm

I suspect that may just be "marketing wank" on sailboat owners.com's part as ancor in their data sheet make no mention at all of the adhesive on this product being epoxy!

Maybe. Came recommended by Mainesail. Iv'e used quite a bit of it, mostly the mil spec stuff. Both are very good , and whatever the adhesive is it squeezes out the end of the heatshrink and forms an extremely good bond and watertight seal. Like i said earlier, if im really worried about a particular connection i'll use two or three layers. My bilge pump has two layers and a heatshrink butt splice terminal. I'm thinking its probably going to outlast me.

[pcmm]

Originally Posted by BAD ORCA

Maybe. Came recommended by Mainesail. Iv'e used quite a bit of it, mostly the mil spec stuff. Both are very good , and whatever the adhesive is it squeezes out the end of the heatshrink and forms an extremely good bond and watertight seal. Like i said earlier, if im really worried about a particular connection i'll use two or three layers. My bilge pump has two layers and a heatshrink butt splice terminal. I'm thinking its probably going to outlast me.

The Ancor stuff is always good quality, no argument there. I have a toolbox full of it for doing battery lugs, etc.

[sstuller]

What about using Starbrite Liquid Electrical Tape? Isn't this what it's for?

[Bycrick]

Liquid PVC will eventually harden and crack. I haven’t found it to be an improvement over good heat shrink lugs, crimped properly. Note that heat shrink lugs won’t seal properly if the jacket on the wire is too small. Another reason to always use the right-sized terminal. I have used liquid tape as sun protection, for which it works OK.

[Cadence]

You might see what the phone company used in days of yore. They would seal underground connections.
There seems to be a lot of over thinking.

[team karst]

Originally Posted by Uncle Bob

My experience has been pump failure over electrical failure, necessitating pump replacement, which is easy to do with a good junction block mounted high using quality connectors and heat shrink. Heavier cable to the block eliminates any voltage drop.

YES; get a single device Carlon surface mount box with matching gasketed cover. Use a barrier strip type terminal, and use ring terminals. Mount high, but within wire range. Enter from the bottom hole, no cable grip is necessary. i usually coat with liquid tape. No more solder for me; did that for many years; bilge pumps and switch are too unreliable to be soldered to.

[RaymondR]

Originally Posted by Cyrus Safdari

Has anyone tried electronics potting epoxy for waterproofing electrical splices? A good waterproof bilge pump connection uses junction boxes placed high up but I'm not happy about the fact that the taps or leads that come with bilge pumps, although pretty long (so the splices above bilge waterlevel) but are much too thin (and unjacketed) Too thin leads are a problem for many items a aboard including Raymarine autopilot) I guess you can make up for the thin span of wire by using thicker connecting wire (which creates other problems)...If you cut off the wires to attach thicker wires closer to the pump you risk water intrusion into the splice, but the only truly waterproof way can think of is by using potting epoxy to splice the connections, covered with heatshrink for strain relief?

The OP addressed the high-up junction box.

The prob;em perceived is that the wiring to the pump from the junction box is often too small and causes a voltage drop. The OP is attempting to ascertain a method of implementing a reliable, water proof, splice at the pump.

[Bowdrie]

If one is concerned about voltage drop across the float switch wires it's not all that hard to use extension wiring from the float switch to one of those Bosch relays that are available all over the world.
Can be mounted just about anywhere.
None of this is rocket science, crimp some wires, cover with as many layers of heat shrink that will put your mind at ease and move on.
It's far too easy to get caught up in "Majoring in Minors".

[Uncle Bob]

Originally Posted by Bowdrie

If one is concerned about voltage drop across the float switch wires it's not all that hard to use extension wiring from the float switch to one of those Bosch relays that are available all over the world.
Can be mounted just about anywhere.
None of this is rocket science, crimp some wires, cover with as many layers of heat shrink that will put your mind at ease and move on.
It's far too easy to get caught up in "Majoring in Minors".

This is oh so true.

[Bycrick]

The built-in wires on the bilge pump are NOT "too small." The much-feared "voltage drop" is a function of both wire size and run length. Several wire size calculators tell me that for a bilge pump drawing 15 amps continuous, with a run of 20’ (40’ total), and 10% voltage drop, I only need #12 wire. The extra voltage drop of 6’ (a 3' pigtail on the pump) is still well within the computations.

[rslifkin]

Originally Posted by Bycrick

The built-in wires on the bilge pump are NOT "too small." The much-feared "voltage drop" is a function of both wire size and run length. Several wire size calculators tell me that for a bilge pump drawing 15 amps continuous, with a run of 20’ (40’ total), and 10% voltage drop, I only need #12 wire. The extra voltage drop of 6’ (a 3' pigtail on the pump) is still well within the computations.

10% voltage drop on a bilge pump is unacceptable IMO. I'd wire to 3% unless it's truly impractical to do so.

[Bycrick]

I think that you missed my point. I, too, prefer to wire bilge pumps with the least practical voltage drop. In my very rough example, I’d wire it with #10. My point was that the short (3’) pigtail of #14-16 wire didn’t have much overall effect on the total voltage drop.

[DominoX]

How about sealing the junction with good quality Butyl putty? I put the putty on and then hand-compress it into a good solid mould, completely water tight, even immersed.

And if it ever comes time to service/replace the joint, Butyl comes off easily.

I guess that's we love and trust thye stuff on our exterior deck fittings (stantions, winches, runners, etc).

DS