Problems fitting cables to battery switch

[Wotname]

Originally Posted by Tmacmi

..........

I am considering putting in an inline blade fuse on each of the red wires. The problem would be that I have absolutely no idea what size fuse would go there.

I know the answer is "depends on the length of the circuit, the size of the wire on the circuit, and the number of circuits on the panel". ........

It mostly depends only on the size of the wire (i.e. wire gauge). The purpose of such fuses is to protect the wire from overheating due to excess current flow.

Minor considerations to fuse sizing include type of insulation and location (i.e. ambient temperature and number of wires loomed together or otherwise).

[Frankly]

As mentioned above, typically the fuse would be sized based on the ampacity of the wires. My point about locating the overcurrent is that if you keep the positive wires separated from the negative wires and grounded parts then you can locate the fuses near the loads/ panels. You already have a connection/ clearance/ geometry problem no need to complicate with fuses.

As others have suggested battery switches can wear over time. Blue Sea makes some good battery switches and reasonable prices. I changed out my original Perko's 10 years back.

Frankly

[Boatyarddog]

Originally Posted by Tmacmi

I updated all the cables from the battery and starter, as well as renewing the connections from the various other wires going to the switch.

The former cables had very thin insulation and the lug to cable connection used electrical tape rather than shrink wrapping.

Now I can't fit the cables back in enough to get a good solid connection to the stud. Its particularly pronounced on the left stud that is the panel and starter connection. It seems like the back of the switch is just too deep.

Has anyone ever dealt with this before? Is there something that extends the studs out slightly?

Its a Guest brand switch

Yeah, better switches do exist.
You might consider coupler nuts, they come in 5/16 and 3/8, and lengths Commonly used on those switches.
copper coupling nut
There are others as well.
Be sure to use corrosion blocker, Tuf gel,.
Then a short bolt and washer to secure the battery cable to the coupler, thus extending it out

[smac999]

Bend the lug.

Most switches today don’t have that issue as they are flat on back.