programmable alternator regulator for Volvo D2-75

[ohthetrees]

I’m working on a lithium battery upgrade, which requires very particular charging voltages and parameters.. I need a programmable regulator for my D2-75 alternator (I believe it is a Mitsubishi? Maybe?). This a very good and strong alternator, so I don’t want to replace it out right. Does anyone know of programmable regulators that work with us alternator?

[Nicholson58]

Use an external alternator regulator. Ours are all Balmar. They have pre programmed settings for all battery types including Li. There are others. You will find similar Li compatible charge controllers for wind and solar. Notably, correct voltage profiles and no float.

A highly useful site
https://marinehowto.com/lifepo4-batteries-on-boats/

[lmxr]

The Mitsubishi 115 A is one of the better stock alternators. External regulation may make quite some sense if the 50 A that it can put out continuously is sufficient for you. A downside is that the Volvo Penta engine electronics tend to be somewhat picky about the alternator behavior.

This alternator does not have an external connection for the field wire. If you want to use it with a direct field controller (like the Balmars) then you'll have to modify the alternator. Not that difficult, you'll find descriptions on the web.

The following controller is developed with these alternators in mind and controls the field indirectly using the sense input. It doesn't require any modifications inside the alternator: VRC-200 Charge Reference Controller | Nordkyn Design. Quite nice is that it measures charge current using a shunt and also regulates based on alternator temperature (somewhat intelligent regulation, not simply turning off when too hot). Might be of interest.

[ohthetrees]

Thank you so much! This is exactly what I'm looking for.

[bcboomer]

You really need to look at the WS500: Wakespeed Products
It's the only one on the market that does it properly.

[EngineerRetired]

The WC500 is one of the best out there. Very programmable.

[patja]

I recently went through this but with a d1-30. You will need to either modify the alternator to disable its regulator and add a field wire or have someone else do it for you. I did the latter and it was under $100.

You also need to pay attention to whether the field is being regulated on the negative or the positive, also known as n versus p-type regulation. The Mitsubishi is set up for n type regulation. But during the process of removing the internal regulator and adding the field wire it is trivial to switch it from an n-type to a p-type depending on your needs. Balmar products only work with p-type. Wakespeed's regulator will work with either, but requires a different wiring harness depending on your choice.

[more]

Originally Posted by ohthetrees

I’m working on a lithium battery upgrade, which requires very particular charging voltages and parameters.. I need a programmable regulator for my D2-75 alternator (I believe it is a Mitsubishi? Maybe?). This a very good and strong alternator, so I don’t want to replace it out right. Does anyone know of programmable regulators that work with us alternator?

Why you need if you have mitsubishi 115A have voltage set 14.4 V and temperature probe never charge over 80-90A when engine room is around 50°C alternator is build to self protect by temperature. ussualy you have 30 min max 70% charge rest charge drop to 20-40A


https://www.dapex.fr/en/art/mit/a003...tor-mitsubishi

if you install balmar and another tiny company regulator this alternator is soon dead. if you charge 100% capacity in hot room this alternator is dead under 1 hour

[bcboomer]

The Wakespeed regulator has an alternator temperature sensor that will protect the alternator from overheating.

[ohthetrees]

Originally Posted by bcboomer

You really need to look at the WS500: Wakespeed Products
It's the only one on the market that does it properly.

Thanks, I'll check it out.

Originally Posted by more

Why you need if you have mitsubishi 115A have voltage set 14.4 V and temperature probe never charge over 80-90A when engine room is around 50°C alternator is build to self protect by temperature. ussualy you have 30 min max 70% charge rest charge drop to 20-40A


https://www.dapex.fr/en/art/mit/a003...tor-mitsubishi

if you install balmar and another tiny company regulator this alternator is soon dead. if you charge 100% capacity in hot room this alternator is dead under 1 hour

The reason is that 14.4v is too much for LiFePo4 batteries once they are at 100% SOC. To persist in charging at that voltage once the batteries are full damages the battery. I haven't read much about the wakespeed yet, but the Nordkyn leaves the original internal regulator intact, and therefore the temperature protection is intact. The Nordkyn simply manipulates the remote voltage sensing of the internal regulator, causing it to charge more or less depending on what the nordkyn is programmed to do. But the internal regulator continues to work normally, with temperature protection intact.

[bcboomer]

The Wakespeed 500 is pre-programmed for lithium and can be custom programmed.
Plus, it's made only a few miles from the OP.

[CarinaPDX]

The VRC-200 is the right one for the V-P Mitsubishi alternator. Unlike the others it requires no alteration to the alternator. And unlike the others it works with the internal regulator instead of bypassing it: this is important because the internal regulator has thermal protections for the alternator, which will prevent burning it up as others have reported. Also, this controller was designed specifically for the V-P alternator and for lithium batteries, although lead batteries can also benefit. Finally, if it ever fails just remove it and go back to stock.

The VRC-200 works with the alternator's remote voltage sense, providing whatever voltage is needed to cause the regulator to react as desired. This allows for a proper float voltage, below the internal regulator's set charge voltage. Also, the controller doesn't care whether the alternator is P-type or N-type (The Mitsubishi alternator is N-type so most U.S. made regulators won't work - our standard is P-type). The Balmar regulators are P-type, so require re-wiring the alternator. The Wakespeed are excellent, and very flexible, regulators which will work with N-type, but of course need to bypass the internal regulator.

Buy the Nordkyn VRC-200 controller (I did) and you will have a much easier install and a much more robust system.

Greg

[more]

Originally Posted by ohthetrees

Thanks, I'll check it out.





The reason is that 14.4v is too much for LiFePo4 batteries once they are at 100% SOC. To persist in charging at that voltage once the batteries are full damages the battery. I haven't read much about the wakespeed yet, but the Nordkyn leaves the original internal regulator intact, and therefore the temperature protection is intact. The Nordkyn simply manipulates the remote voltage sensing of the internal regulator, causing it to charge more or less depending on what the nordkyn is programmed to do. But the internal regulator continues to work normally, with temperature protection intact.

but this aftermark voltage regulator pump xurent at 15-16 V and more.Victron diode battery isolator voltage drop approximately 0,3 V - 0,45 V

Also you have a Voltage drop in cable 3-5% if you have good setup on your battery you have 13,6-13,7 V on your alternator you have 14,4V
I use Voltage Sensing reley and on battery have 13,8