Replacing 2x150W Zamp Solar Panels with 2x200W Renogy Monocrystalline

[Tenedos]

Our recently purchased boat came with 2x150W Zamp Solar Panels (JSMM1500) and a 30AMP Zamp PWM controller. I wasn't aware of these panels but researching a bit, I see they are a company operating out of Oregon.

I am already looking at plans to add more solar since this is not quite enough for our power usage. I would like to add some more on the bimini and/or dodger, or find ways to extend the arch back but those are separate projects.

In the meantime, I figured I can probably replace these two with 200W Renogy Monocrystalline panels and add 100W extra immediately. Dimensions are quite close: 66cm x 146cm for Zamp and 65.7cm x 162 cm for Renogy. 16 cm extra length is ok, as I have enough beam. I am making a bet that I can replace these myself and manage the fittings. I also hear Zamp is reverse polarized so, will require some digging on my part to figure it out but should be doable.

Along the process, I will also change the controller to a Victron MPPT 100/50 for eventual expansion.

Any reason why this is not a good idea?

[Seafarer7]

Sounds like a good idea. I recently did something similar: replaced seven panels (5x100 + 2x255 = 1010W) with three panels (3x455 = 1335W) using same footprint.

[Tenedos]

Originally Posted by Seafarer7

Sounds like a good idea. I recently did something similar: replaced seven panels (5x100 + 2x255 = 1010W) with three panels (3x455 = 1335W) using same footprint.

That's quite a lot of power! What brand did you use?

[Seafarer7]

I used REC’s Alpha Series REC445AA (couldn’t source the 450, which are the same dimensions as the 445).

Here’s a link:

https://usa.recgroup.com/alpha

(Correction to my earlier post: my panels are 445w each, not 455).

[Popcorn]

Can you connect these panels directly to a 12v Battery bank? and using a controller for each panel.
Are there any other electrical needs other than above?

[more]

Originally Posted by Popcorn

Can you connect these panels directly to a 12v Battery bank? and using a controller for each panel.
Are there any other electrical needs other than above?

never conect solar panel direct to battery.
Solar panel conect to solar controler- solar controler conect to batery.

[Seafarer7]

Best to use an MPPT controller - these panels put out 53volts DC open circuit, and about 46volts @ max power.

[sailcrazy]

Following. We currently run 4x80 watt panels, but they're old and need replacing. We ran each panel to a Schottky(sp?) diode, then to a busbar (1 for + and one for -) that is relatively close by. Then a single (much larger) wire from each busbar fwd to the Victron MPPT controller, and then to the batt bank.

[more]

Originally Posted by sailcrazy

Following. We currently run 4x80 watt panels, but they're old and need replacing. We ran each panel to a Schottky(sp?) diode, then to a busbar (1 for + and one for -) that is relatively close by. Then a single (much larger) wire from each busbar fwd to the Victron MPPT controller, and then to the batt bank.

whay complicate your life, what Schottky (how old is your panel,normal modern panel have diode in junction box)

for you best deel is this 1 panel
https://www.solaris-shop.com/longi-s...l-solar-panel/
if money is not problem find LONGI LR5-72HBD 540W

and bay new 40-50 A MPTT solar controler.
6mm2 solar cable going in MPTT
from MPTT regulator use 10-16 mm2 cable depend lenght.
voltage drop calculate here

https://photovoltaic-software.com/so...age-calculator

this relativ new BiFacial Half-cut Cells panel is amazing for the boat. both side of the panel is UV resistant,

[Seafarer7]

The Schottky works as a ‘blocking’ diode which works well when panels are hooked up in parallel, as @sailcrazy has done. While most larger modern panels contain several (3+) bypass diodes, I am not aware of any that have blocking diodes (other than those tiny 5w, 10w auto battery tender panels that are directly hooked up to batteries without a charge controller).

Blocking and bypass diodes may be physically identical, but are wired in differently and serve different roles: one minimizes effect of intra-panel shading by ‘by-passing’ shaded cell strings within a panel, the other ‘blocks’ drain of energy by adjacent (parallel) shaded panels (inter-panel shading).

[more]

Originally Posted by Seafarer7

The Schottky works as a ‘blocking’ diode which works well when panels are hooked up in parallel, as @sailcrazy has done. While most larger modern panels contain several (3+) bypass diodes, I am not aware of any that have blocking diodes (other than those tiny 5w, 10w auto battery tender panels that are directly hooked up to batteries without a charge controller).

Blocking and bypass diodes may be physically identical, but are wired in differently and serve different roles: one minimizes effect of intra-panel shading by ‘by-passing’ shaded cell strings within a panel, the other ‘blocks’ drain of energy by adjacent (parallel) shaded panels (inter-panel shading).

i be working in solar panel factory 1985 as solar panel designer,later i work in Germany in the design of solar park 10 MW and more when green energy madnese come,normaly bankruptcy 2008 . We coming in bank i want credit for new solar factory how much need 10-100 -1000 milion,money not problem for our green energy.