Ring terminals for 110v

[basssears]

Have happily used heat shrink adhesive ring terminals (some from Ancor, some direct from TinnedMarineWire.com which actually seem nicer than the Ancors) for some time now on 12v systems with good success.

Need to redo some 110 AC wiring next, just realized none of these ring terminals seem to list an approved voltage range:
https://tinyurl.com/tinnedmarine
https://www.ancorproducts.com/en/p/311303

I assume these are appropriate to use for connecting my new 10ga triplex tinned wire to my new Blue Sea Systems A Series breakers, am I correct in that assumption (or am I making an ass out of me an umption)?

TIA.

-- Bass

[team karst]

I would use them. note that the EU DoC does not list the low voltage directive, only RoHS. So, for euro, there is no voltage hazard. I might agree, "insulated" crimps don't mean they are touchable to a IP20 rating, for instance. ie; lots of exposed HV there...and insulation/safety is to be applied by other means (box, panel, etc)

[basssears]

Just for reference or others who check this post, I did get reply to my question from TinnedMarineWire:

"Good up to 600 volts, so you are good."

-- Bass

[basssears]

Originally Posted by team karst

I would use them. note that the EU DoC does not list the low voltage directive, only RoHS. So, for euro, there is no voltage hazard. I might agree, "insulated" crimps don't mean they are touchable to a IP20 rating, for instance. ie; lots of exposed HV there...

Are you referring to whether a ring terminal is still a high voltage shock hazard? My plan (doesn't exist in current 1988 setup) is to have a cover over the whole back of the A/C side of the panel to prevent shock hazard, so I'm not too worried about each actual wire's shock potential.

[team karst]

Originally Posted by basssears

Just for reference or others who check this post, I did get reply to my question from TinnedMarineWire:

"Good up to 600 volts, so you are good."

-- Bass

I think that means they will accommodate 600Volt insulated wire, in the sizes called out. Not convinced it has anything to do with shock hazard. Half the terminal is exposed.

[Lake-Effect]

Originally Posted by basssears

Have happily used heat shrink adhesive ring terminals (some from Ancor, some direct from TinnedMarineWire.com which actually seem nicer than the Ancors) for some time now on 12v systems with good success.

Need to redo some 110 AC wiring next, just realized none of these ring terminals seem to list an approved voltage range:
https://tinyurl.com/tinnedmarine
https://www.ancorproducts.com/en/p/311303

I assume these are appropriate to use for connecting my new 10ga triplex tinned wire to my new Blue Sea Systems A Series breakers, am I correct in that assumption (or am I making an ass out of me an umption)?

The connectors you linked to are the "blue" range which is for wire gauge 16 to 14, to fit a #10 screw. Confusing, isn't it? You need to get ring terminals for 10 gauge wire, with a ring hole sized for the breaker's screws.

In this application, you don't need to worry about voltage rating. Current rating is more important, but I'm going to go out on a limb here and say that any terminal meant to crimp onto a 10 AWG wire is probably rated to handle that current.

[Dsanduril]

The tech specs for the linked Ancor product show that they are listed to UL 486C.

486C has two insulation ratings, 300V and 600V. Since the tech specs don't specify, I'd assume that they meet only the 300V requirements. The voltage ratings show up in several places in the standard, but this pretty much covers it (i.e., there is no option for an insulated connector < 300V).

6.3.6 Insulation employed as part of a connector shall be suitable for the tested voltage rating of the connector in accordance with Table 2 [Table 2 has entries for 300V and 600V (1000V in signs and luminaires)]...

10.5 e) for an insulated connector, the marked voltage rating shall be "300 volts maximum", "600 volts maximum, or "600 volts maximum building wire; 1000 volts maximum, signs or luminaires". The marking may be on the unit container or on an information sheet packed in the unit container;

[edit] I see you got 600V back while I was typing[/edit]

[rwidman]

Those terminals are fine but be sure to get the ones rated for the gauge of wire that you are using and the size of the screw that the terminals will be attached to.

[basssears]

Originally Posted by rwidman

Those terminals are fine but be sure to get the ones rated for the gauge of wire that you are using and the size of the screw that the terminals will be attached to.

Thanks all, yes I know the ring terminal size I need (based on what the Blue Sea breaker accepts which is #6) they're the yellow 12-10 AWG sized, all I needed to confirm was I could run 110v through them.

[smac999]

the standard blue sea breakers are #10 screw. the bigger ones with studs will be 1/4". #6 is a tiny screw.

[GordMay]

Originally Posted by smac999

the standard blue sea breakers are #10 screw. the bigger ones with studs will be 1/4". #6 is a tiny screw.

Blue Seas Circuit Breakers don’t have a “standard” screw/stud terminal size, [although many are #10/32].
Look up your specific breaker, for details.
➥ https://www.bluesea.com/products/cat...rcuit_Breakers

[basssears]

Originally Posted by smac999

the standard blue sea breakers are #10 screw. the bigger ones with studs will be 1/4". #6 is a tiny screw.

Oh, so what, now I have to be able to read??


Just glanced at the specs when I wrote that last post, mounting screws to mount breakers to panel are #6, mounting studs are #10. Doh.

[MerMike]

Consider using captive spade terminals instead of ring terminals so you don't drop the tiny little screws down in the bilge.

ABYC allows their use: 11.14.3.4 Terminal connectors shall be the ring or captive spade types.