Solar; Flex Panels for Summer Usage while traveling

[Smokeys Kitchen]

Originally Posted by CarlF

I mounted my flexible panels on 1/4” twinwall polycarbonate panels. This is used for greenhouse glazing so lasts forever in the sun, It’s great stuff. Very light. Flexible enough to follow a bimini curve but not so flexible that the solar panel can be damaged by bending, The air channels also help with heat disipation. Finally the twinwall can be placed over the bimini stainless bows - something you should never do with a flexible panel....

This - it has worked for us for 5 years living on the boat in the PNW and now in Mexico after sailing down the West Coast. I mount the solar panels on the polycarbonate panels using high density plastic washers to get airflow underneath. The polycarbonate panels are mounted directly to the cross pieces on the dodger top.

[jbinbi]

Does anyone know of real world difference between solbian and renogy in lifetime usage.?

[CaptainRivet]

Originally Posted by Smokeys Kitchen

This - it has worked for us for 5 years living on the boat in the PNW and now in Mexico after sailing down the West Coast. I mount the solar panels on the polycarbonate panels using high density plastic washers to get airflow underneath. The polycarbonate panels are mounted directly to the cross pieces on the dodger top.

You could have also mounted them like a very flat V and use ridged bifacial panels. Would double your solar input and lasts much longer for 1/3 of the price.

[CaptainRivet]

Originally Posted by Sdpaddler50

The Bimini we have is relatively flat, with very little curvature.

I appreciate the comments regarding the mounting of the panels to allow for heat dissipation.

The Solbian website (https://solbian.solar/en/) shows various fastening methods for a textile based Bimini like I have.

They also state:
"Velcro flaps all-around the panel, holding the solar laminate from both top and bottom. Perfect for installations on textile structures, highly windproof and aesthetically pleasing. Needs less space than zippers."

I am having trouble visualizing how this arrangement allows for heat dissipation if they are snugly held against the fabric of the Bimini. IE, all of the mounting methods appear to have a tight contact between panel and fabric.

Yes they need a tight contact between panel and fabric because when airflow gets under the panel they rip of the zippers or Velcro as it’s too much force when >40kn wind gets under. Look at Delos, they sew pockets into the Bimini and they go over the panel as a picture in a frame to avoid that. But that compromises heat flow and aging.
If your Bimini is flat have a look at the mounting brackets I posted above and install a little frame over the Bimini with fixed bifacial panels

[davil]

Originally Posted by hlev00

Regard heat issues, yes the tests and probably some real world experiences show that heat reduces the output. However, we have had 380W of Solbians for two winters in the Bahamas and four summers in New England velcro'ed directly to our Bimini and are very happy with the output in both environments. When it is hotter the sun is more overhead so maybe that makes up for it a bit. We also have not noticed any significant reduction in output due to age.

Harry

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question

did you notice any damage to the bimini sumbrella?

Just installed a brand-new set of dodger/bimini(a very expensive upgrade) and wonder.
thanks

[SunPoweredYachts]

"We currently run the Gen about 3hrs per day", ouch, that's a lot of noise and solar is a great alternative, why not enjoy clean & quiet power? I always remember a customer saying, "you can't under-estimate the importance of running a quiet boat" and I have to agree. How many amp hours is your generator putting into the batteries in 3hrs, see what you can offset with a full day of solar. Even if you can't completely offset you would at least cut down on generator run time.

Popular install methods on a canvas bimini are velcro, zippers, bolt ropes, LOXX fasteners

[OS2Dude]

We converted from Renogy rigid panels to Renogy flexible panels because the rigid panels had to be removed to go sailing. That was a real pain due to their size and weight and sometimes we skipped going out because of it. As stated previously, flexible panels are not so much 'flexible' as 'bendable'. I made a frame for our flexible panels out of 0.75" PVC pipe and fittings. The frames hold the panels off the cabin roof, so they are cooler than being glued on directly and the frames keep the panels from flapping in a wind. The frames and panels are lashed to the mast base and handrails. (Original plan was to remove them when sailing too, but that proved unnecessary.) They are our sole means of keeping the battery bank charged so are in use 24/7/365. This has been our 3rd year with them, and all is good. Even in tropical storm force winds they have not moved or suffered any issues. (Our rigid panels flipped off their mounts once in a storm, one right onto a winch. Luckily no damage!)

[SerialHobbyist]

Originally Posted by OS2Dude

We converted from Renogy rigid panels to Renogy flexible panels because the rigid panels had to be removed to go sailing. That was a real pain due to their size and weight and sometimes we skipped going out because of it. As stated previously, flexible panels are not so much 'flexible' as 'bendable'. I made a frame for our flexible panels out of 0.75" PVC pipe and fittings. The frames hold the panels off the cabin roof, so they are cooler than being glued on directly and the frames keep the panels from flapping in a wind. The frames and panels are lashed to the mast base and handrails. (Original plan was to remove them when sailing too, but that proved unnecessary.) They are our sole means of keeping the battery bank charged so are in use 24/7/365. This has been our 3rd year with them, and all is good. Even in tropical storm force winds they have not moved or suffered any issues. (Our rigid panels flipped off their mounts once in a storm, one right onto a winch. Luckily no damage!)

I really like this idea, but I can't tell how you attached the panels to the PVC. Can you elaborate?

[OS2Dude]

Originally Posted by SerialHobbyist

I really like this idea, but I can't tell how you attached the panels to the PVC. Can you elaborate?

I cut an 0.125" slot the length of the pipe, and in the four Side Outlet 90 degree Elbows and two Tees. The Tees I bored-out so they would slip over the pipe instead of having to cut the pipe. I cutout sections of the pipe where the panel connectors are and slid the pipe over the edge and attached the 90 fittings on it. Then I put the tees onto the long pipes and slid the long pieces down each length of the panel (and over the gromets) into the 90 fittings. Finally I placed the remaining 90-degree fittings on the last piece and slid it onto the edge of the panel and onto the long pipe sections. I then used scrap pieces of pipe to make legs the appropriate length with 0.75" couplings and plugs as feet. (You could use a cap instead.) As you may be able to see, I drilled the 90 degree fittings to line up with the gromets in the corners and passed dynema line through them (Holes & grommets) to use when lashing them down.

[Peeew]

I sewed zippers on to two flexible solar panels. To reduce flexing I glued corrugated plastic “sign material” to the back of each. Had the canvas shop add the zippers and covers over zippers to my Bimini. Three years so far of 6 months in the Bahamas and summers on Chesapeake bay. Lots of windy days and so far they are still performing great. This installation is virtually invisible and simple. Easy to unzip, unplug, and remove when necessary. I like the idea of rigid panels but I don’t like the look or the weight.
With modern panels from a good supplier I suspect all the styles described by everyone would work well. No perfect solution so I just picked one and I’m very happy with it.

[walt41]

For my 31-ft sailboat on a mooring, I have a 75-W flexible panel from Home Depot. Am able to use LED lighting, radios and computer chargers going without running the engine. BTW have an icebox and alcohol stove for normal living during the summer with wife who likes to cook.

[Sdpaddler50]

Thank you for the replies.

Agree, 3 hours Gen run time is a lot. That is worst case scenario with people aboard. When I am solo, I shut everything down except the reefer and its less. Also, my house bank is on it last legs and I am replacing that soon which will help a lot.

As noted, I am not out for months at a time, its for a couple weeks, back to the marina, then back out again for a few weeks, and only during the Summer. I am therefore balancing my needs for a smaller solar system to reduce Gen run time and improve battery health. The Bim and panels would be removed in the Fall and stored in my garage, then back on in June.

At this point, I am leaning toward 2;104 W Solbian panels so 208W rated. Attachment with velcro, directly on to the canvas.

[Sdpaddler50]

Learning more about the ratings of panels and what you actually get in the real world vs. a lab. I realize there are many variables involved including angle, shading, and the quality of the Pv panel. This is from one of the distributors of Solbian panels. I am not plugging Solbian here, just commenting on outputs of panels in general.

[Sdpaddler50]

Talked to a canvas guy who I have known for many years. He builds a pocket on the Bimini for the panels to slide into, and the top panel is Stratoglass. This is similar to Isenglass but more ridged and a bit thicker. I once had a Bim that had some Stratoglass on the forward windshield portions and it’s literally like glass. He has apparently done many boats with it and no one has said it had a detrimental affect on yield. Does anyone have any first hand experience with this?

[Sdpaddler50]

Install complete; 2 - 118W Solbian flex panels. Getting about 30 and 40 Watts from each panel yesterday at 3 pm with the sun in SoCal starting to head downwards. Today is sunny, so the big test to see what they can do.

Product literature indicates ok to wash with mild soaps and water and “protectant” ok. Was thinking 303, but it wears off after about 6 weeks. Anyone try a ceramic coating for protection? Concerned about affecting the yield in any way and that includes coatings.